Facetious

He ran because those DE county cops would have roughed his ass up lol. Tough old school township cops in that area. No warnings were in his fortune cookie

I just ordered the hi-bend pro taper 7/8's and the pro taper pillow block grips for 58 bucks shipped. I'll post what I think of them when I get em on in a few days. The right side of my Renthals broke about halfway up a hill climb. Thank god for that crossbar. Sure was an ass-puckering experience.

Belray gearsaver.

Thanks for the replies. Well I pulled the cover off and checked out the basket. There was no grooving in the basket. I didn't take it apart so I don't know about the hub. Everything looked pretty clean. When I pulled in the clutch lever, I noticed that the fibers and plates stayed stuck together. While my daughter held in the clutch for me, I took a small screwdriver lightly pried in between the fiber plates. They had suction and popped apart. It felt like what two really flat wet surfaces would do laid on each other, creating a slight vacuum. All of the plates did it. I had her release the lever and pull it again. They stuck together again. I'm guessing time for new fibers and plates. Sucks because it doesn't slip at all. It pulls great. :shrug: :shrug: I'll order some new stuff and see how it goes.

Is it possible for clutch fibers to swell? My clutch isn't disengaging all the way and I've tried adjusting at the perch and behind the clutch cover. With the clutch lever released the indicator arrow on top of the case is way off in the direction of the stator after adjusting the clutch according the posts I've read here. Doesn't slip at all and pulls great. Bike creeps when trying to kickstart with clutch pulled in and lurches and stalls when putting into gear from neutral. Any ideas?

It can be done this way or fully converted to YFZ. You can't use banshee hubs on yfz spindles and vice versa though.

This bike has very low hours. Many upgrades. Tag 2 handle bars, Alba exhaust and nerf bars, AC front bumper and rear grab bar, Velocity filter, Suzuki shock covers. Well maintained. Never been wrecked or raced. Very nice bike. Willing to trade for a 17-20ft bowrider and will pay for difference... $4200.00. Bike is located in New Castle, DE.

Looks good. I am trying to talk my buddy into upgrading the suspension on his LTR now....I think he's on to my motives though.... :evil: LOL!

$300 is a bit steep IMO. I paid $300 for the shocks, a-arms, spindles, and hubs over at Yfz Central. It took about a month of lurking though. The deals are out there, just gotta be patient and vigilant.

Using Yammy's logo could cause legal headaches. How about BHQ with Est.1998 under it on the left of the chest? Like where a pocket would be.

I bought a seat cover off of him and it is just as he described, if not better. Paypal was taking there sweet time transfering money into my paypal account and he was patient with me. Item arrived 2 days after the payment cleared. Great seller.

Nyuk, who does your powdercoating? That black chrome looks like it comes out really nice.

I love my Lincoln MIG welder. It great for a home shop. Never had any issues with the spool either.

PM Sent.

I'd be interested fo sho!

This kind of stuff is very interesting to me. I was doing some net searching and reading different topics on two-strokes and porting and came across this site, http://macdizzy.com/2stroke.htm It is a great read for anyone interested in delving deeper into how's and why's of two-strokes and porting. It is very detailed. The author of that site actually mentions the book by Jennings in his posts too.

I don't really know what you are talking about or what I am looking at, but it looks good....lol. I'd like to learn about this kind of stuff though. What exactly do those values mean? Is there a resource online that gives detailed explanations? Someone is sellin CD's on ebay that supposedly teach you porting. Anyone ever check them out?

Banshee hubs won't fit yfz spindles. Not sure about the brake calipers though.

The spacers are for the lower a-arm, not the upper. The uppers fit right in perfectly with the dust caps. I just ran into the same issue tonight. i just took the rear upper dust cap off and put a thin 1" OD washer in its place and put a smaller thin washer inside the front dust caps to make up for the space change. It shifted the upper a-arm back just enough to fully clear the shock spring.

I picked one up from the Yammy dealer for 14 bucks.

2nd that. When i went from the stock pipes to my PC's, I still had the 25's in and it was hard to start. Moved up to 27.5 and she starts beautifully, cold or hot.

I was going to get Wisecos, but plan on giving them a try some time soon. Hey, if it blows, it will give me a story to sell to the wifey to justify a redo/upgrade on the whole motor. And if they perform well, I'll be sure to post it here. I was a former entrepreneur myself at one time; its hard to break into a market that is dominated by big names. I'll give him a shot.

I haven't completed the swap yet so I couldn't tell ya. In the midst of all this I found a bad bearing on one of my front hubs so I'll be out of commission until my new bearings come in the mail. Just when i think I'm in the clear I step in a pile of shit.

price on front hubs shipped to 19713 please.

FYI, the stock banshee dust boots fit the yfz 450 ball joints perfectly. I just finished robbing them from my old arms. Anyone looking for stock banshee a-arms w/o boots? lol