Facetious

I started last night. Got the front end removed from my bike and the yfz front end and shocks lined up and dry fitted. I put the a-arms in a soft jawed vise and cut the excess with a die grinder close to what it should have been then used a belt sander to bring it in so it was nice and snug with the bushings in. Mullet Man's write up is awesome. I'm making my spacers today at work. Should be finished up tonight. Everything is pretty simple if you have the right tools. Hardest part for me was getting the ball joints loose from the spindles. Plenty of curses flying around for that.

I picked up a full set (a-arms, shocks, spindles, and tie rods) for 300 bucks shipped from YFZ Central. It took me a good month and a half of lurking to get that deal though. But what 88-04 stated is a pretty accurate average. Around 150 for the shocks and around 100-150 for the a-arms. And another 55 bucks if you get those nifty little spacers from 2003LimitedBanshee.

Thank you much. I'll give them a try. I saw that cascade innovations sells a 4 pack of boots for stock banshee joints for 15 bucks. I am gonna measure my old banshee boots and see if the dimensions match up too.

So I pretty much destroyed one of the ball joint boots on my 450 a-arms I'm modding for my banshee. Anyone have a line on a good place to get replacements? I figure I might as well replace them all while I'm at it.

I was going to buy them for mine, but the No Fear tag turned me off.

I kicked around the same question since I got my shee. All my thumper buddies kept telling me not to. They are just jealous, I say. Well I just did this weekend I think it looks 100% better. Cut em off!

I'm not familiar with those carbs at all, so I'm not even going to act like I do and give ya some misinformation. But, there are a shit ton of knowledgable folks here and I'm sure someone will chime in. Sounds like you're gettin there though :thumbsup:

Your main jet is the brass hex piece. The pilot is much narrower and is located in a tube that is usually next to the main jet. Mains stocker pilot

Similar problem I was having on mine. Pilot jet was clogging up on one side. Had to take it apart and clean it up a few times before the problem went away. That pilot jet hole is damn small. Pilot jet covers 0-1/4 throttle and main jet/needle cover 1/4-WOT. From what you say it sounds like your problem is in the 0-1/4 throttle range and goes apeshit once you hit the mains. Next time you pull your carbs apart, look at your main and pilot and post up the numbers on them.

Nice looking find. Very clean. Welcome to the HQ. This site and its members are awesome. I wouldn't be riding today without them.

/sigh....

Try searching the site. There are quite a few things that could cause it. I was having the same problem in mine and it ended up being a combination of my carbs not being sync'd or jetted properly. I found everything I needed to know with the search function. Check it out and enjoy working on your shee. I know I do

http://www.boyesen.com/cwo/ATV/Products This explains the difference between boyesen's three types of reed (not including Rad Valve). It is their site so the wording is obviously designed to make them all sound like the best thing since sliced bread. But, anyway, from what I gather, the single carbon fiber reed is the SuperStock reed. It is marketed as a direct OEM spec replacement that lasts longer than OEM. The Power series is the next level offered. It is a dual stage fiberglass reed with a low tension top reed and a mid-high tension ported (3 ports) bottom reed. Claims crisper throttle response and more horsepower throughout the powerband. They all say that though. The top reed they offer is the Pro Series. It seems to be the same dual stage reed as the Power series except it has a carbon fiber low tension reed on top and a ported (2 ports) fiberglass mid-high tension bottom reed. I just got myself a set of Pro series reeds for mine and as soon as i get it back together, I'll let you know how they turned out.

goddamnit!!!

What he said.

I'd be interested in the Noss head and domes.

What problem were you having that required you to adjust the pancake bearing? Slippage or creeping with clutch engaged and whilst in gear?

Shit send me a pic, I may take them.

Interested in pods and outerwears if they are the right size. PM me price and size plz when you get a chance. Thanks.

Can you PM me nerf bar pics?

Thanks for the replies guys. Much appreciated.

On my 97, if you were sitting on the bike, it is the box on the left, mounted to the frame under the gas tank with one bolt.

Okay, I inherited a Shee like two years ago that was beat to hell, ridden hard and put away wet and muddy....literally. It's been just sitting in my shed all this time. I just started working on it around Christmas and I now finally have it running fairly well. I thought it was a lost cause, but thanks to you guys on this site, shee's good to go. So now I'm ready to start with the upgrades. My type of riding style will be strictly woods/trails with small to medium hill climbs and gravel pits. The elevation is anywhere from sea level to 200ft above sea level. Outdoor riding temps are 30F-50F currently, but will be riding in 70-90F in the spring and summer. The bike is currently bone stock, with air box cover and snorkel still on (some of the trails involve riding through ~1 ft of water in a stream and streambeds). 200 main jets and 25 Pilot. Pilot screw is currently 1.5 turns out. BR8ES plugs. Pre-mix with Castrol TTS @ 32:1(recommended by a friend, but may switch to Castor from what I have been reading here). Installed TORS removal kit with idle screws, new stock style Unifilter, Easy pull clutch perch and cable. I bought a set of really nice pro circuit platinum pipes and matching silencers here(thanks to mun2frio). Where should I go with the jets and airbox when I install these pipes? Keep in mind I do hit mud and water. I was thinking snorkel off and getting those round filtered inserts that you install into the lid. What do you guys think?

Nerf bar pics?

How much for lights shipped?