blaster2006

Im not lean, and im running 280 mains. i rode it today, and so did my mechanic, and he said the jetting is SPOT on. i did a plug check, its all a very dark brown blackish color, it idles fine accelerates good.. the insulator, electrode etc are all black, not white etc. so if something its abit rich.

heya, just installed my mods, everything is good, runs great, but theres always a problem... when i removed my stock airbox to put my pods, i lost the support of the coolant overflow bottle. i tryed to ziplock it, but it would not work, so my mechanic told me to ditch it, he pulled both hoses from it, and ziplocked it to the frame pointing downwards. there are 2 hoses, one that normallyl sucks coolant from the overflow bottle, and one that sucks coolant if it needs it. the one that sucks coolant is SLIGHTLY fatter tube ( which we noticed, incase we want to re attach the bottle later). now when i ride it, then i turn it off, i see coolant dripping on the floor, from the FATTER tube... which is the one that is supposed to suck the coolant, not throw out unnecessary coolant. it almost always does this when i see it stable... or turned off and not moving, god knows if it drips any when im moving.. but i just dont see it. it leaked so far.. if i had to guess.. about 100ml (of what i saw). and just now after i turned it off... only a few drops of coolant was coming out from the right tube, which is supposed to overflow..this just happened once.. the other leaks i saw were from the bigger tube which was supposed to take in coolant. so guys.. can someone please explain whats happening.. and why its coming out of the tube that is supposed to suck coolant?

i am at sea level, and 50-80 temps, im running 280s with same setup, pods + pipes, and they are telling me here its too rich... so for you i PERSONALLY would not go over 300.. and stay with 25 pilots just tighten the air screw 1 turn or 1/2 a turn

Well, look, ive driven a banshee 2 days ago with T5s, filter, and VF3s . and with tis VF3s which i dont have, i noticed mine pulled way better bottom end and abit more mid end, and exactly same top end. you could say they are a better version of T5s. since all of you are telling me im lean, thats good, im happy, cause, everyone here locally tells me to run lower, like 260 or 270 ish. So ill stay with my 280s , it fired up after only 4 kicks when we put the bowls etc back on with this jetting anyway and we had no filters on at the first start, my mechanic thinks its too much for just filter and stock cylinders with stock compression etc... hes good mechanic but has weird opinions. oh and he also likes (he does this on all bikes he has and his customers bikes) he always puts the idle screw (not air screw, the silver one on top of tors) he puts it VERY low.. he loosens it so it revs very low, i prefer it high, so you feel good when it idles that it does not sound like its gonna turn off, but he wants it low because the engine can "relax" or "cool down" when you let it idle, and not always be running high, he said the engine will get tired like that if i keep the idle screw the way i wanted it. if you focus closely in the vid... the idling is pretty low revving (low RPM), and he wanted to make it even less but i told him not too and im thinking of raising it abit more even from what it is now.

just got my DMC 916s installed, thanks to my ubber mechanic i got here,i took the carbs off the TORS too and pulled them out completely and gave them a good cleaning. i put 280 mains and stock pilot, but air screw 1 turn out, (idles perfect, runs good too on top end) although i did not manage to test ride it alot as its late night here, and its tooo bloody loud, but i went full throttle and no bogs seems fine, although my mechanic still is telling me its abit rich ( although he did not test ride yet). put everything back etc and my K&N pod filters, took us long time... those damn DMC pipes the 2in1 muffler is HARD to install... being 3 people working on the bike.. gah. other than that runs mint idles well a vid of it idling here : ( bad quality, will def get better sound quality later): http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x182/bl...nt=Video007.flv pics are here:

many people keep saying their slides are in backwards, i find that very hard.. i mean, i got a brand new OKO 28mm carb i got here to play with ( i bought it for like 10$, was gonna put it on my blaster but ended up not). so i play with it and look at it to learn more about how carbs work (im a newb to motors etc). the slide on this carb will NOT go in backwards, it has a shape, that fits in the molded shape in the carb, is it only with mikuni carbs where the slide would fit the other way around? i dont get how this happens lol

from what your saying.. yeah, black plugs, bog at WOT, sounds rich to me... try 260 mains

raced a yfz 450 stock v stock, rider skills are almost exact same, and i am heavier, but i had abit better tread on tires. we raced a pretty short distance race and i won bone stock.. but then he pulled away just after i won, so long race yfz would win stock v stock. imo a modded shee with the normal pipe, filter, reeds + jetted, would win a stock or modded yfz in a drag in 1/8 or 1/4 mile. i know stock shees do about 32 hp, dunno about yfzs sorry

mhm, the DMC 916s i bought "new" must have been sitting in this guys shop for many years, the inside of the pipe is all dust and rust, but is MINT chrome on the outside though

it is off.. as you can see in the video, im 99% sure the fuel petcock/ valve etc is broken, it leaked for non stop 30 sec. and leaked like... about 300-400ml of gas. also, no the screws of the bowls are piss easy to remove.. i got 3 of them so far cant reach the 4th. and i need it sideways first so that when i remove the bowl the floats dont get fucked.also gonna take the pilot out and clean by the floats.

hmm... i will do that as a last resort. removing the fuel line from carb, cause mine is like stuck, its REALLY hard to pull it off, and if its that hard to pull off, i dont think ill manage to put it back on. as for the cap, then i will be messing with the throttle cable, its too much for me to put back the cable end with that TORS on. its really hard. so i guess ill try to take off the fuel line to carb, and then tilt it sideways to rejet.. im confident i can do it.. all i need to do is follow the other carb with it so that the cross over tube also does not pop out..

the pingle was off, it drained ALOT of gas.. so im guessing it will never ever stop. the last time i rejetted my blaster, i did not loosen any bolt to drain, i just tipped it sideways, fuel fell from overflow, and eventually stopped.. after 5 sec. i think maybe the fuel valve is broken.. and fuel keeps flowing through it?

i like it very much

sorry.. but may i ask what are you talking about ? what is leaking?

im trying to install my new mods.. heres my current progress: i removed that damn hard airbox, and removed the carbs from the intake boots... i also tried to remove my pipes but i think i made the nuts on the silencer bald... so ill see what ill have to do for that.. but other than that i made a video of my problems, the questions i got are in the video... http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x182/bl...;current=Vp.flv

thats too bad cause... I GOT A BRAND NEW SET OF THEM

lool -.- yes i bought it new... guys are you serious about this dent? its on the right pipe.. yes.. lol what a joke...

thanks, i hope it does not make any diff on the performance, the good thing though is when i isntall them it wont show at all on the quad. i paid $670, for all the mods including pods and outerwears and jets etc.

Just got some DMC 916s, K5N pods with outwerwears, and some 280 mains (sea level, hot temps) although... guess what, i just noticed one pipe has some gay dent in it, this wont affect my performance will it? its abit after the expansion chambers.. heres a pic also, 1 thing i would like to know too, is the main jets i got, say on the side "AB280" , i heard that the banshee needs specific jets, and not just any jets, anyone know if these would work? here is a pic:

btw- a stupid tip that might help lol... just incase you ddnt know, cause i noticed many people dont, if you have an airbox, no need to remove the carbs to synch, remove the filter from the airbox and look through the holed and you can synch it from your eyes by there...

fresh top end and possibly a new bottom end?

heya, some time ago i disconnected my TORS ( i did not remove the metal huge part over the carb) i just disconnected all the 3 wires, for the TORS. today i was talking to my mechanic, and i told him i disconnected my TORS... he was shocked and told me that was bad because.. he said that what it did was this: It controls your spark from the coils to the plugs, when its running on idle, it gives low spark, so the engine runs cooler, and it only gives high spark when you push the throttle, he said it helps it idle better, as it gives less spark on idle, and more spark the more you gas it. He said its better to connect it, becauseif i leave it like this then it constantly gives high spark at any revs at no matter what throttle, and he said that it wears your engine in the long run, it will wear the motor our much faster like that. is all of this true?

gonna clean my carbs.. once i install my mods and ill have to rejet them.. so thats when ill clean them.

they look nice.. other than.. is it me or are your cylinder walls scratched alot?