blaster2006

lol @ that 30 pilot... ill go with what the other guy said 27.5 mains and either 2 screws out of tight or 1.5, 2 should be better though.... but ima have to say 280-290 mains. ive got the same setup as you but ive got K&N pod filters, and now im running 270 mains and its perfect.. im sea level 18-30 degrees celsius

just attach a moose racing boost bottle and it will stop puking coolant

it might be leaking jizz from the pistons.. nah just messin... well... if it smokes a lot... its surely burning oil or coolant.. its got nothing to do with the plus. if it smells weird and also smokes a lot when its on neutral and not revving (on idle) then its definately burning something like oil which means the crank seals are fucked. Personally for me ive got a small leak from my crank to my cylinders of engine oil. but im leaving it as is... who cares.. still runs fine and thats more lubrication.

best ones in my experience are bellray 80w, or maxima 80w or any of those "80w" oils... they are made with identical standards to fit that of the banshee... or just use any type of of 10w30 oil... as long as it does not have added chemicals in it. Take that advice if you want to be safe - but in the end it does not really matter what you put as long as its oil... as you can see people use ATF which is meant for the AUTOMATIC transmission fluid... and that works for the gearbox... my friends over here mix like 10w30 with 0w 40 oil and like 4 other types of oil and extra used oil as long as it fills up...

nevermind, we got it off with a hammer and chisel

it slides off the back sprocket ( it dislocates)... it can come off from the top of the back sprocket.. but then from the bottom where there is that plastic white thing that holds it under the back sprocket it gets stuck over there

Hey! i really need you guys help! I am trying to remove the chain on my banshee and i found out it does not have a lock? so there is no way i can remove it... i tried many ways and its not coming off... thats really stupid how stock chains dont have a friggin lock... I need to replace it and can't get it out. Reason why i need to replace: because its way too loose and i already extended the swingarm to its max and its still way too loose.. i've had this chain for 4 years now so it needs a change... but i need help on any suggestions on how to get it out.. my friend said he is going to get a grinder and grind it off..

From my experience, DMC are the loudest and sound best comparing to T5's / pro circuit.

Lol, 2 years, 1 thing for sure is the carbs are guaranteed to be clogged. for me if i leave the bowls of the carbs full of gas for 5 days it gets clogged. But since you said it stopped working 2 years ago as well, at that time the carbs must have been fine and it still wouldnt start then its not only the carbs sounds like something else too but ive got no clue, although it could be the stator you replaced, and now its a carb problem, so yeah id clean the carbs XD

Hey guys. I just put back my top end together. It starts up fine, but whenever i give it small revs, the cylinders just vibrate, and the pipes and the shifter too. then when its back to normal idle RPM, it stops vibrating. Is this normal? oh and btw i did not torque the nuts on the head down, i just tightened each one in the order given on the head, and tried to make it equal by hand.

yeah, they are like 3 different nuts by where the cable connects to the TORS, what way do i spin which one to make it to raise/ lower the slides?

Hey, just checked to see if my carbs are in sync, and they are WAY out of it. If i push the throttle just abit the left carb's slide moves and the other carb's slide does not move at all. So i tried tightening the big silver screw on the TORS for the carb that was not moving at low throttle( the right side carb)as much as icould till it wouldnt let me tighten it any more. And it still would not move up at low throttle and the other carb would. So i then loosened the other carb alot, and it still would go up on low throttle before the other carb that i tightened to the max its screw. Any help here?

all that shows me is how to sync a carb with a tool that i dont have. they are synced to as much as my eyes can see. more than that i dont know. dont have that much money to pay 50$ + international shipping for a sync tool i need to use for 10 seconds

so let me get this right, the crossover mainly helps if my carbs arent synced ( which they arent) no wonder it was sounding REALLY really lean, when we put our thumbs to block it temporaily. so i guess because its not synced. when we revved it abit with our thumbs on it... it was really throaty sound and you could hear the huge amount of air, as if it were really lean.. that bogging noise every time we tried to rev it a tiny bit... so i guess ill need the crossover.

yeah, i was kidding :/... but i what i really need to know is, does it make a difference if i block them or have a tube between them?

Hmm, i think its my time to get myself a boost bottle, atleast ill have somethign to add to my mods list thatll make it seem meaner and at the same time gain a good 0.5 hp

well, i just re-ringed my banshee, and put the top end back together, but i lost my crossover tube in the process, so for now to just test if it fires up a friend of mine and i put our thumbs to cover the whole from the intake and fired it... but we need something else to make it rideable. So is it fine if we just completely block it with something? or there must be some kind of " crossover tube" so that the intakes are connected or whatever the crossover tube is supposed to do.

Hey, i just put back my cylinders with the new Tusk racing gasket set i bought. When my friend came he asked me if i added silicon to the gasket as well, and when i said no he was surprised and told me i should have, and its really important to do that. Do you guys think its really worth to add silicon on top of the gasket set ive got? Thanks.

Hey, just wondering, i bought new rings for my pistons, one is slightly thicker than the other, which one go's on top and which on the bottom... thanks

Ok, well, i wanted to get my cylinders bored, a good friend of mine ( who has mechanic experience) helped me remove them, to get them ready for boring. But once we removed the cylinders + pistons, he took a look at them and said they are perfect. And to me they also look really good. The pistons look really well, still bright silver color and no deep scratches. the cylinder walls are also really smooth, no deep scracthes whatsoever, there are ofcourse alot of small scracthes which i beleive are called the liners?. Anyway, it has been running for almost 4 years now... and a good amount of use on it.. i ride it almost everyday for the past year ive had it ( bought it used,1 year ago). I did a compression test about 6 months ago and it was 115 each cylinder... since then like i said i rode it everyday. So im guessing the compression would probably be 105-110 now. My friend is strongly recommending me i DONT bore them out, but, he is not THAT well mechanicly experienced, and i personally dont beleive you can tell if it needs boring from just looking at them, he told me he guarantees me it will run for 2 more years easily, and anyway im planning to sell it in may 2010. So basically i need it to run for the next 7 months, and be able to sell it. He told me i should just get new rings and a gasket kit, thats all it needs, but again its been running for a LONG time, and im pretty sure its at about 105-110 PSI, not sure what to do, any suggestions?

the gas is already 3 days old.. so should i leave it in my gas tank or in my platsic container... or is one better than the other.. im not sure what to do.. or i can give it to my friend to use..

well, a 4mil will do less than a stock stroke, the bigger the stroke, the more torque and LESS RPM. so if you put like a -4mm, it will do more rpm... a modded banshee with top end pipes would do about like 1 or 2k more i BELEIVE.

hey guys, im travelling tommorow for 4 days, so my shee is gonna sit for 4 days. its got a FULL tank of gas.. now i know they say if you leave gas for a long while in a plastic container it LOOSES octane.. now if i leave it in the gas tank, it wont loose octane right? im not really sure what the inside for the gas tank is made of... thanks..

the whole problem was not having spark. you do not need gas for spark. and yeah we fixed it, oh and ohio, yeah we had the hand brake pulled, but the problem turned out to be that the CABLES from the hand brake were melted or something.. so when we put the hand brake it was AS if we did not because the wires to tell it to give spark were melted. its fixed now and all good.

hey guys, im sorry this is non-banshee related, but weve got a really annoying problem here. if anyone could please help me out here my friend who has alot of mechanic experience has a suzuki lt-80 (that runs fine), and 2 days back he bought a non working lt80 for cheap. he checked it up, and found out that it was in mint shape, cylinder had good compression etc, the only problem is he is not getting spark. and also.. everytime he trys to start it.. its not from the main push to start switch.. but im not sure hes got something near the battery and jumper cables from a pickup truck to the quad and he puts like some wierd thing in some place and that makes it try to start ( that starting sound) but we looked at the coil and no spark coming at all..but the electric start is trying to work.. although like i said its not from the push to start button but from some weird mechanish i have no clue about (im no mechanic). because the push to start button does nothing when we push it. so what he did was, he took part by part. from the working lt80 and put in the non running one, he replaced the CDI box, and the wiring, and nothing... he then changed the flywheel and stator... and still nothing.. he almost replaced everything to do with electrical.. and still nothing.. he ran out of ideas.. what could be wrong?