blaster2006

uhm... okay... what shall i do now... its not leaking any oil.. and it runs fine ofc. shall i remove it again? or leave it as is? there is no leaks.. and no cracks

yeah, just quickly disconnect the TORS wires. they are connected with a plastic push and pull assembly. look at your carbs, then look at the triangle shaped boxes on top of them, at the back you will see a black somewhat thick wire connected to it, follow it, then it will become a black and a yellow wire, that then leads to a plastic assembly, push the buttom and pull them apart, do the same for the other carb. once you did those 2, there will be a third one, it is on the gear shifter side (left side), this one is between fuel tank and the cylinders somewhere, its also a black and yellow wire combo, discconect that one too. so total 3 things to disconnect. then try it and it should give spark at all times

isnt it also good to take out the pilot jet, and spray it and unclog that area? and spray it with carb cleaner? oh and after we spray the parts as mentioned with carb cleaner... do we have to then re clean it with gasoline? or we bolt it back with the carb cleaner fluid still on the carb?

yeah so your carbs have not been tocuhed or ever re jetted. your obviously lean .. since you put a K&N with no lid on. tighten your airscrew about half a turn and maybe put 3 or 4 sizes bigger on the main jets..all that info is just an estimate.. im no proffessional but im pretty sure those settings are a good way to start

yeah.. get a crank! i actually have ridden my mates bike.. who has a 4mil and porting ( the porting is mild, not so good), and a cool head.. those 3 things he has that i dont on my bike.. although his compression was 150 on one side and 90 on the other, it still ran mint and it was literally hard to hold on (was in the desert) plus he had bald maxxis tires.. the HP it has is just incredible.. i was on 5th gear pushing full .. and found my ass moving the back of the seat.. its HARD to hold on.. i couldnt imagine with bike with paddles..

yeah sorry.. i did not mean to force anything i just knew something that i thought would help people and wrote it up.. i guess it was a misunderstanding.. anyway i guess we can ignore this post, and i think i might have stripped the threads... because.. when i tightened it with my foot it... the wrench moved like 1/4 of a turn more in, and im sure i tightened it well before with my hands.. but now it does not leak at all. im going to yamaha dealer, as i have some spare parts to buy and some yamalube 2R oil.. so ill see if they have a new drain bolt. oh (and stupid question again), i hope you ddnt mean when saying i stripped the threads ,i hope you dont mean the threads on the crankcase? i wouldnt care if i stipped the bolt, i can buy a new one.. but the crankcase i hope all is well

yeah hard to beleive myself.. i guess its such a stupid thing to know that i ddnt learn it, and learned something much better like i said i never came across to reading a dipstick.

yeah i know, i dont care what oils you use too. read my post again and please see what it is intended for. for the people who have no clue what oil to use im giving them a good headstart. i did not ask anyone or threaten anyone to use the oils specified im just saying whats best for the banshee. thats it

look .. let me explain.. im no mechanic like everyone in the US who has a banshee is. im only 16... when i had my blaster i was not learning much mechanically, just when i got my banshee i started to learn more, and i learned how to deal with carbs mostly, and i knew how to change spark plugs and oil. THATS IT, im learning more can you people stop getting so angry seriously just answer my questions so we can both be happy? it just so happened that i never measured oil with a dipstick i just put how much recoomend oil to put. seriously you guys? and yes my so called " mechanic" inspected it and said im fine i dont need oil and he simply answered my question which could have been asnwered ages ago and told me if its oil until the end of the tip it has enough oil. i wouldnt have had to call him over to come if you guys would have simply answered. thanks for the quick responses

What a fucking retard. im not even arab, i just live here you ingnorant dick. although im not a redneck hillbilly like you probably are. so just shut the fuck up if you have nothing good to say and piss off, i have a mechanic to help me do things, and i ask questions here to learn about the things he does not know, and you are talking trash on a post where im trying to help people choose oil you dumb retard, go look at all thish dumb bullshit you are talking about on the post i made. which is supposed to help people. just stfu better ok? plus, when i say mechanic, that does NOT mean what you are thinking. the mechanic you have in the US are completely different. all the mechanics here are cheap indian laborers who only know how to fix cars, not people who are specialized in quads, and the "mechanic" i have, is arab and has no degree, i just call him that because hes not a friend of mine he just helps me get things done on my quad so i call him a mechanic, thats the reason why i ask questions here cause if i had an american mechanic, that would be different cause he would know everything i would ask instead of asking it here

WHO the fuck are you with 37 posts talking shit you worthless idiot, like you even gave anyone good advise you trash, stop flaming my post and if you have nothing good to say piss off

okay.. this is what my mechanic and i did.. like i said, my slides raise at the same time with throttle, just by default one slide is raised higher than the other. we pulled the throttle cable black caps on the TORS, and he played with the bolts... he told me there is no way to make sure that both the slides are by default exactly the same height.. but he made it close...but i measued it with my thumb... the small opening gap when the carbs are on idle, and i couldnt see a difference this time with my eye as i could see before.. so we adjusted it now but not 100% but its better now, and as for both slides moving up together we played abit more with the idle screw ( big brass one on top of TORS) and got it as close as it can get.. so they now lift up at exact same time, the bike idles fine, and the slides when left alone both bottom out completely about the same.

hehe no, hes a really nice guy, he even comes over to my house, hes an arab mechanic who has no degree in anything, he isnt too rich he lives in a village, and he grew up fixing quads, and he actually used to work as a mechanic, the only thing he told me that was stupid was something about that the TORS system is actually good and i should not remove it, and he tells me if i remove the TORS the throttle cable will be very hard to pull and tire your hand. other than that i learned alot from him, i learned how to completely take out the carbs off the quad (i was scared to before) and how to put the slides in correctly, how to change needles etc, most he taught me about carbs and jetting, aswell as removing reeds. and when he is going to replace his crank bearings on his KX 250 ( very soon) hes gonna call me over and im gonna see how he does it.. he said hes gonna split the case etc, and if he gets that done.. you guys better take back everythign you said (ill post pics for the non beleivers) he also changed my clutch... and adjusted it works great.. he did it in 15 mins, removed the kicker off, brake , footpegs etc, cover, changed clutch all in 15 mins. and as for the carbs, we did fix them, and we synched them visually, as i dont have a synch tool yet. when we do the things on my quad and we talk about getting a timing plate and getting it bored etc, eveything i tell him that "the internet" tells me he says dont listen to them etc bla bla he thinks all the advise you give me is stupid.. i forgot what things i was told to do here i told him that and he laughed... the same way how he laughed at how when i told him the TORS is useless, he said "dont listen to them" so yeah.. anyway..

yeah actually i have , and just to let you guys know my mechanic uses the ATF also but type A it was just a right up rubberneck... and you better wanna use a good oil in that new banshee of yours before i travel to the US steal it off ya.

hmm it was buy it now or best offer, its his tactic for people to make him offer like $3 and think they wont get it and then he will accept the offer and theres no turning back or hes a retard. LOL where he says 105 psi and 5-8 kicks? then later says starts right up?

sorry for any misunderstanding... just telling you facts, what i know, but i never said ATF is BAD, i just said its not the best, and thats true. the best oil you can get is the 80wt maxima MTL or bel ray gear saver. you cant say that the ATF type F is better than quality brands and exact viscosity designed for wet clutches. more than that its all opinions, if your ATF type F works well go ahead i never said not to, this should be to help people in understanding what best oils to look for, as in the start i knew nothing myself about oils

i always thought olive oil would work its prbs has a 10 viscosity or something, really light, should only be used when drag racing . actually, im going get some 75wt maxima spare( the 20 viscosity one), its really light, only for when i got races

hmm, just to let all you guys know, everybody here mentions that they run "i ran X brand for 5 years with no issues" that does not mean its good, ofcourse you wont have issues its not a new motor its just kinds of oil, ofcourse it will still run but its not running as well as it would with other kinds of oils, plus if anything slight happens you CANT tell that issues occurred, basically IF an issue occurs from having bad oil, that oil must be REALLY REALLY bad, any oil, would work, 0w-20, 20w-50, 30w-40, all those would work, "they all would have no issues" does not mean its good, just to let you guys no, obviously your not going to have problems from a different oil, but hey its up to you, i just wrote this thread up i guess mainly for the people who did not know exactly what to use, just like i did, but then i researched some and found this out. i was using on my blaster for 2 years and i "had no issues" and found out that the oil i was using was full of chemicals, and had additives for anti-friction, which is very bad, and i had no problems what so ever, and no clutch slippage.

wth 2 qts is way too much, im pretty sure the crankcase can only hold a maximum of 1700ml.. which is like 1.8qts... they recommend you fill it up 1400-1500ml. so not more than 1.6 qts

get some OOF pipes if you like to wake up the nieghbors, my friend has them... it literally HURTS your ears if it hits mid rpm, and top rpm you will become deff if you are riding the quad with no helmet ( the helmet reduces the sound and piercing noise dramatically) if you want to go with t5's, then instead take DMC 916s as its a better version of T5s

asked the same question of how to read the gear oil stick, most people wont answer how and just make fun.. but anyway for the oil, just use 1400-1500ml of oil (i use 1450ml), or 1.5 quarts would be good. the type of oil you want is Bel-ray gear saver 80wt, or Maxima MTL 80wt, any of those 2 are the best oils for your banshee. or just use SAE10w-30 ( make sure it has no checmical additives for anti-friction), or just use some ATF type F which you can supposedly find at walmart personally i change it after every 50 hours or riding or so, but if you want do it after every 30 hours would be better

true, they really do SCREAM at top end... its just insane.. it really is a great mid to top end pipe. i also feel i have shitty bottom end on mine too, but also knowing i dont have a cool head and i dont have timing plate

heya, when i last changed my tranny oil, i forgot to tighten properly the bolt at the bottom of the crankcase where the oil drips out. and i noticed a small puddle of oil spilled the first time.. but i always have fluids in my garage, and not sure where it came from, so i moved my quad forward, where it was dry under it, and next day it was tranny oil for sure under it.. so i lost quite some oil i guess maybe 100 ml? anyway i now tightened it and moved it to a dry spot and well see after a few days if it leaks, but im sure it wont i tightened it with all the the force of my foot (instead of my hand). but now im unsure if i should add some more oil? on a cold motor i took the dipstick out, dryed it properly, then just rested it back in through the whole but without tightening it, pulled it out, and there was oil on the tip of the dipstick, i dont know exactly till where but i then put it on my finger and there was like 1 drop of oil that came on my finger from the tip of the dipstick, so that means i dont have to put more oil right?

bleh.. i was considering it... ill see.. its $65 plus shipping international so thats $100 about out of my wallet..

thanks alot AK heathen, this is what i was asking for.. i just did not understand a few parts ( sorry), if you could maybe briefly re explain what you mean.. "back the idle screws off on the tors tops, untill they stop, but don't force" you mean i completely remove the big round silver screws on top of the tors ( the idle screws) i loosen those completely yeah? and "if no thump, adjust the cable untill it does via the adjuster where the cable goes into the tors box. pull back on the cable sleve as you adjust the nut, as it is splined where it seats." i still dont understand how that assembly works to adjust the throttle, so i remove the black cap part of the throttle cable which is on the tors... then how do i "adjust" the nut, and what do you mean by its "splined where it seats" EDIT: okay just got back, i pulled the carbs from the intake, and looked at the slides from that view, the carb with the lower slide, the slide is almost 100% shut from the intake side(maybe there is like a 0.000001cm gap, but ddnt see any), and the one with the higher slide, from the intake side there is a small gap, meaning the slide is raised slightly from the intake side of the carb and as i said they both lift up together when i give it throttle, so its just the cable adjustment i guess? i removed the black caps and then i saw the metal part with the cable inside it and i see like 2 nuts and like a 3rd one but i think the third one does not move. how do i play with those, which of the 3 do i move? thanks..