blaster2006

just did a plug chop... heated it 1min.. put new plugs, kicked it and raced myself.... wot wot as much as i can... rode it for about 3 mins hard... took out plugs i can see dark brownish colors down the plug. guess im good now guaranteed. that im good to go as for main jets. also btw, volfan, i looked at your sig, youve got more mods than me, including the Pods ive got, and your running 290 mains, and where i live its VERY hot, today afternoon it was actually hot.. about 75 degrees. where i live in the middle east its hottt... coldest it got was 60 F. its 60-80 degrees here. i think ill need to richen the needle and move the needle up..

look, i dont pay my mechanic, he helps me for free as a good friend, i just tipped him once for the job where he cleaned my carbs and put my pipes/ filters on, thats it. i gave him $20 for that, other than that for the little things etc he does for me, i dont pay him, so why not have him help me. i agree with that i have to move the needle up 1 notch ( lower the clip notch 1 time, so pointy part moves up abit). its just the bad response i got atm which is annoying.. got delays alot.. noticing it more and more i drive it.. it pulls when i gas it top after some time but it pulls way harder when i actually wait for it to respond from the massive delay, when it was stock it had better response.. but not as much power as it has now when i actually give it time to respond

you cant miss it, its near the main jet, its a thin metal tube, look down it you will see a tiny golden screw.. you need a very thin flathead screwdriver to put it in and take it out

yeah, but i dont think it would make the problem how i listed...

Just recently installed my mods, (K&N filter, pipes, 280 mains, and turned air screw 1 turn out). it ran fine etc, plugs SEEM fine, if im off jetting im sure its just by a VERY little bit, and if something im guessing im abit rich. but anyway, bike runs fine etc, but today, i raced another banshee for fun, and this is what happened. i launched from 2nd gear (i had a perfect launch), accelerated fast enough to go into 3rd (like i always do, always shift at the same time etc), but this time with my mods, when i hit 3rd, and pushed the throttle to full immediately ( like i do when racing ofc), for 1.00 sec exactly, the bike would NOT pull... loose power completely then after 1 sec it pulls again and shifts through the rest of the gears fine... i dont think its from lean jetting, but what i could say is my reeds are bad, and the petals have never been changed since the previous owner i bought it from had it, its a 06 banshee with stock reed cage and petals. and when i tore my shee apart when installing mods, my mechanic wanted to check the reeds, before he pulled them out, he did "his test" to see if the reeds are good. we took the carb off the intake, and then he put his hand over the intake and blocked it completely, he then gave it a few kicks, and then he said he could feel air blowing against his hand which meant i had bad reads (i noticed before he kicked it that he put the key switch on "on") and he said that since he felt air push against his hands from the intake boot, when he kicked it, that it means ive got bad reeds. so could this problem be from bad reeds, the not so quick response or pull. whatever it is. note: this did not happen when my bike was stock, also this does not happen if i cruise... it only happens when i race ( and i think it only happens on a slippery road with some sand and rocks (rocky sand), im pretty sure on road if i race launch from 2nd and shift to third it pulls instantly... i will check again on that tommorow

91 was the 1st with a arms

honestly if i was given one of those DG, or the ones that look like them, or most of the aftermarket ones, if i was given them for FREE... i would NOT put them on. i would only put it on if i was given it free and no less than about $200 tbh

everyone was telling me to use belray gear saver 80w or "ATF type F" gear oil in the tranny. i finally found some ATF "h specifications" so basically ATF type H... and it said for automatic transmition... and ATF standing for automatic transmition fluid. etc. questions are: 1. is only ATF type F that works? or can i buy the type H available here? 2. since all the ATF kinds are designed for automatic... isnt that not so great? dont those always have the non friciton additive which is bad for clutches? 3. For everyone who uses different kinds of oils other than the recommended (SAE10w-30). like people who use ATF type F, belray gear saver 80w etc etc, you all say "yeah it works great", how do you know that? who told you to use different oils from what recommended, who said that you can use different kind of oils other than what is recommended.. what told you that this specific oil is good if they dont recommend it, im sure yamaha knows better since they make the engines? when you say it works great, anything works great, im using sae 20w-50, i feel its not so good for the engine, but my engine still runs and "works great"

well 1 thing i can say, my 6th gear does NOT PULL, its really weak, as it was like that before i even modded my bike also. unless i REDLINE 5th gear. the 6th gear has no pull. i aslo did do a compression test.. i got 125 psi on left cyl, 120 psi on the right one, but the adapter i put in the cyl had very short threads, it was maybe only 1/3 of how big the br8es spark plugs are. so im guessing its over 120 psi. as for when you said about how it sucks coolant when its cooler, exactly my point why you should need a bottle and not ditch the bottle like most people do, meaning it now just spills out coolant but it trys to suck in some when cool but it cant since there is no bottle. exactly my point, so its trying to suck in coolant at some points but it just cant cause there is no overflow bottle.

kinda sucks for me, on my banshee the fuel valve is always on .. no matter where you put it.

if he wanted to ditch the cops... i would just turn off my lights tbh

i just rode it.. normally.. did not do a plug chop..alot of people say its stupid.. and you can get a good figure from looking at the spark plug. besides, it runs fine..

i think my problem is not how you think it is, there are 2 tubes, 1 tube, that gos at the bottom of the overflow bottle, and one tube that is on top of the overflow, normally, i would assume that the bottom one is sucking coolant, and the top one just dumps out extra coolant. now, i was astonished... simply because.. i noticed that coolant was slowly dripping from the tube that was at the BOTTOM of the coolant overflow, which is supposed to suck coolant, knowing that the one on top is the overflow one. this is why im abit scared that coolant is dropping from the wrong tube.. my spark plugs are black, insulator is black.. infact heres a pic of the plugs.. after i rode it for no more than 10 minutes.

nice, your just like me , just recently got pipes/ filter, runs nice!

personally id pick pro circuits over FMF any day

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? DMC 916 2) What type of airfilter do you have? k&n POD 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all K&N POD 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) sea level 5) What size pilot jets are you using? stock (25) 6) What size main jets are you using? 280 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 60-80 8) Do you have a port job? no 9) What kind of carbs? stock 10)stock needle clip 11) 1 turn out on air fuel screws

yeah, i dont mind at all.. easy we drain the radiator.. right.. but.. there is still some coolant left in the jugs + head, so it will still be considered "mixing". also talking about coolants, all the shops here sell different kinds, what kinds should i be looking for, anything specific?

wow lucky you enjoy zeh portingz

theres always problems buying used ............... shoulda bought new... 2009 one since they sell it here..

:thumbsup:

haha yeah, you gave me the idea, i ddnt think of it, then when i heard it a second time and looked at my airbox... then i thought of it and was like.. yeah,... good idea.. as for my switch, when i tore it apart to install my mods, the on/off valve does not work... lol... its broken :S

also just opened the radiator cap, it was FULL to the top, so i guess im safe and good to go, can i just keep the thing ditched, and from time to time just make sure that the radiator is full of coolant?

great idea, cant believe i did not think of that, working on that now. when i get my coolant bottle re attached though, and the hoses, it would be better if i filled it up ( the overflow bottle). but knowing that ill be using a different brand coolant, thats okay right? its okay to mix coolants and brands etc? just to add some in the overflow.. to the low mark atleast?

yeah same here, i turn it off whenever i get the chance.. so it cools down... but... its on idle like.. what 5-10% of the time when you are riding it anyway..

Im thinking of duct taping it on... really well.. dont know if it will hold. and uwenr... thanks for the billet bracket, thats really nice, sent you a PM got some questions about it. Oh and lets say i re attach my coolant bottle ( which i drained the coolant out of obviously when i took it off) can i just re fill only the overflow bottle with some other random brand coolant? or is it not good to mix coolants? and im gonna have to drain all the coolant from my radiator? and then drain the coolant leftover from the cylinders -.-.