blaster2006

hey sorry i know this is off topic, but may i know what size pistons you were running with the 64.5mm bore size until it melted? were you using stock pistons and it still runs even though your bore is like 0.5mm bigger?

wth? no? if you tighten the air screw it gets richer. loosen it gets leaner.

haha lol gotta admit that was a good one

uhm... whhhhat? why are you just copying what one idiot said,? WHAT info? did you give me and i turned down? all i said is i dont want to remove my TORS, which has NOTHING to do with my problem, NOTHING. any helpful information i did not turn down, please correct me if im wrong and show me one place where i turned down something. yeah, he is not a mechanic actually. i just call him that, he does things for me for free, and he did not study any degree or anything, he just rebuilt many banshees etc, he knows many things you could say but nothing you could find out like small things on the internet... if you know what i mean... he knows how to replace pistons new top end he claims.. but these small things etc he does not know. but hes overall smart and a nice guy he helps me out for free if i go to him.

yeah im working on getting one. all im trying to say is, when the banshee is off, not running ( or idling... if you look at the slides, one slide looks to have a bigger space left for air to flow in it or whatever, the other slide is a smaller gap.. ( its lower than the other basically), but when i push the throttle they both move up at the same time. the difference is slight but easily noticeable with the human eye. i will get a pic up although it would be hard to tell from a picture but ill try.

yeah mate i got that part right, its just by default, one slide is higher than the other, and the carb tops are on properly, all looks good, slides are in properly in, just by default one slide is higher than the other, but when i pull the throttle, they move EXACTLY at the same time.

your the idiot you gets so hyped about small things. i dont have to listen to everything you say, when you tell me things like it would be good to remove the TORS its just an opinion, if you could just answer the question it would be nice rather than telling me to do stupid things that i dont care and ddnt give a crap about. if you just be smart and answer what i asked for it would help, i dont have to listen to everybody else here, if everyone told you to sell your banshee, and you ddnt, we all wouldnt go emo and scream at you and tell you "WE ARE GIVING YOU ADVICE AND YOU DONT LISTEN" most of the advice you give me i am not even capable of or dont want to waste my money on. Your a retard, seriously.

rather not, gonna stick with keeping the TORS

here is a dyno, of 2 stock banshees, one of them has a boost bottle and rest completely stock, the other is 100% stock. notice the HUGE hp gains

alright, okay, ive got a few questions, for NOW, what shall i do (i don't have the sync tool), oh and i do have the TORS. i synced them to move up at the same time with the big round silver screw on top of the tors. i don't know where any other golden screw is for the other kind of idle.. and then there is the air screw.. you telling me there is another screw im missing here? and when i adjust the cables, shall i lower the higher slide, or higher the lower slide? when i get the synch tool, knowing so far up to my knowledge that there is only 1 screw for the idle.. the air screw has nothign to do with the slides, so if im in sync when it idles, then i pull the throttle abit and im abit out of synch, what will i do? if i then re sycn it for half throttle or something, then it wont be synched again for idle Stop copying what other people told me once and just dont say anything if it wont be useful okay?

heya guys, a problem with my carbs me and my mechanic noticed, is that, when you remove the filters and look at the slides ... the choke side carb's slide looks higher raised up than the other one -.-, so you see there is a bigger gap as if the throttle is raised abit only on thechoke side carb, or maybe its that the other carb is just lower than normal and should be raised abit more like the other one, they are both synched though, they lift up at exactly the same time (eye sychned, but done very very well), it seems to idle fine, pulls greattt top end, but on bottom end low rpms it like bogs slightly

if you preserved like a 87 banshee till now i would buy it off you for $6500.. (if i was looking to buy a banshee) just cause it would be a classic and then i would keep it longer and longer till like im 50 years old or something and then sell it for loads.. im sure alot of people would be interested in it. up to you though

problem with atf type f is its viscosity, im not sure exactly what it is, it just says for wet clutches, whereas pay abit more and you have the perfect viscosity, great brand and designed basically especially for your banshee.

heya, i need your opinions if i should get an adjustable timing plate and set it to +4, but i would like to know if its easy to install, cause if i get it my mechanic will be installing it.. but he has never really put a timing plate so hes also unsure of exactly how to put it on, will i need a flywheel puller and would i need to remove my flywheel? or its an easy bolt on and form there i turn it about and mess with it to get the +4 timing? i also read somewhere you need like some kind of spacer like a business card or something like that it seems tricky but if anyone can tell me how easy it is to install and what i have to do after removing the stator cover how do i install it fully. thanks

yeah, like you are all saying, the 80-85 weights, those mean 30 and 40 viscosity, in other words like an SAE 10w-30 or SAE 30 .. or SAE 40 etc...better choose the 80 if you could choose between them, and better get MTL (maxima), or bel-ray, those are designed for wet clutches and dont have those bad chemicals that destroy wet clutches.

yeah why not.. go up about 2 sizes up on the main jets that you would have used on a stock carb so it will equal the gas amount. so if you were to put 300 mains on your stock carb with the mods you got, on the 34mm put 320s (although i know its not mikuni but u get my point) my friend got 36mm mikuni flatsides on a stock motor for some time before he got it ported with a crank.

if i get one its 100% gonna be NOSS, because they fit on stock studs ive heard.

I was always researching what oils and looking for oils to use on my banshee. we all know that the recommended oil to use for the banshee is SAE 10w-30. SAE 10w-30, means at high operating temperature, its viscosity ( the more viscosity, the thicker it is, and slower it flows, the less viscosity, the thinner it is and the more it flows), 2 strokes normally need the thinner oils, as 4 strokes tend to need the slightly thicker oils. now, SAE 10w-30, means its a 30 viscosity oil, when its at hot operating temps, the 10w is not something important you should know, its just something to do with how thick it is at cold temps. the most important thing to know is that Yamaha recommends 30 viscosity oils. i was now looking about eveywhere, to find some SAE 10w-30 ( or SAE 10w-40, its close enough), all the ones i found had additives for anti-friction, which is bad for the clutches as they make them slip. i then found out, that brands such as maxima, and Bel ray, makes special oils for motorbikes, maxima's being called MTL fluid, they have "75wt, 80wt, and 85wt", and belray has the same numbers too. they are specially made to keep a good long lasting clutch, and dont have those anti friction chemicals, but then i thought, oh no, they are too thick because their viscosity is 75,80,85 etc, and i soon found out that, they are just like labels, and the numbers are NOT their viscosity, they are just called that, and and each one has a specified viscosity. the 75wt is a 20 viscosity the 80wt is a 30 viscosity ( the viscosity yamaha recommends) the 85wt is a 40 viscosity so its best to use the 80wt, or 85wt, personally i would prefer the 80wt because its lighter ( better flow), but they say if its too light its not good so i wouldnt go with the 75wt. so if your looking for the ultimate oil for your banshee tranny? go with the maxima mtl fluid 80wt, or the bel ray gear saver 80wt. those are the best oils you can get for the banshee. i myself when i travelled and just came back yesterday, found some bottles of 85wt ( i woulda preffered 80wt) but anyway, its close enough

well, i would like a little bit of more bottom end pull etc, so i was thinking with going with the coolhead, atm i tested my compression to be 120psi (with a short head compression tester, it was not as long as the spark plugs on it). although i am at sea level. i ride my quad about 6 times a week, for about 30-40 minutes each day average. so about 3-4 hours a week of riding. im thinking to go with 23 or 22cc domes, as i dont want to wear out my pistons, is the only reason which is stopping me from getting the kit. i rather not go through a rebuild, and im planning to sell the quad in about abit more than 1 year, (when i go to university). so thats my situation, if i can get any ideas.

DMC on their website claims 37% more hp, oh, as for the performance, i have them, they pull WAY hARD on top end and rev more than toomeys, its like an imporved version of toomeys... like i said before they are TOP end pipes.

ok i fired it up and took the cap off ( on cold engine), and the coolant was moving littttle.. not like oh its moving and circulatiing you can easily tell, no, it wasnt like that. if you looked closely it was moving very very slowly... if something.. just little motionbut nothing like it sucked the coolant or you see it obviously flowing.

Edit: OOPS heya, i need a carb synch tool for the banshee... im willing to pay not more than $15 + shipping. but the shipping will be international, so if you can total me a good price for under $25 included international shipping ( shipping wont be that much,since its light and small) i should buy it. thanks.

we had a slight problem with putting it back on, but it took like 5 sec only, at first he could not put it on easily, he told me to put it on 2nd gear and move it back and forth slightly, then he said "Stopt" then he told me to move it again then it fit right through

heya, just put on my new clutch kit, we obviously had to take off that fat hose that fits on to the clutch cover, and coolant was pouring out,it then stopped after like 3 sec then my mechanic did something with his mouth i have no clueif he sucked or blowed but he put his mouth on the hose.. and loads more coolant started falling out from the fat hose like no tommorow. we then put back everything, put back the water hose etc, and then i went and bought some coolant, opened the radiator cap, and filled it till it was almost full. i let it idle for about uhm.. 1 min or so, then checked the cap, and the coolant did not go down at all, it stayed the same. also the coolant overflow bottle at the back stayed the same and did not go down at all. then i rode it about what.. 4-5 mins max just slowly testing the new clutch, i come back and put my hand on the clyinder.. and its pretty hot.. ( i sometimes imagine things and panic easily) but i think it was too hot for the little 5 mins i rode it for. is there anything i could have done wrong? is it normal for the coolant to stay in the radiator high and it not sucking any?, also because i did not have to add much before it got full again, and if i had to guess it lost more coolant than i added.

you should definately rebuild. if i hit about 105-110, i would rebuild myself... get it bored and honed and get some wiseco's