apeik

damn that's clean

i actually tested both cylinders at the same time with a piece of solder across the top of each piston along the wristpin, then removed the head to check the solder =D

Got the top end together today, checked squish by putting solder across piston/putting head on turning it over. Ended up with .051-.053 squish, and 130/130.5 cold un-broken in cranking psi. Guessing this should go up to around 138-140 after break in... Supposed to be 100% 91 octane motor, does this all sound reasonable?

m67, the wear was from before the replate, the fresh cylinders are still sitting on the bench waiting for be wiped down with 2stroke oil, i already washed them out with soap and water and put new water jacket plugs and put the studs back in. They had to be pretty egg shaped before, you could hear the piston slapping at idle, i think it's time to buy a bore gauge so i know for sure next time.

well damn, never had pistons look this bad after 40 hours in a steel bore and being run to death. Guess the nikasil is just really hard on aluminum. The pistons are already on the way, so i guess ill just keep the old one's for backup's. Just concerned me with the massive wear on the bottom corners of the skirts(piston rocking), and the flat spot across the intake bridge on one. Oddly one piston looks quite a bit better than the other. Learned something new though, thanks for all the input guy's. Also i ended up using a dgk needle with my new 35 pwk's last time because that's the only way it would run even close to right on the vp q16, but on pump gas im thinking about starting out at 162main, cel 4th clip, 48 pilot when i get it back together as a starting point. Last time i could never get it jetted right no matter what i tried im guessing because of detonation and the domes.

Upon closer inspection, my pistons i ran for maybe 5 +/- hours in the cylinders before i got them replated are pretty much wrecked. guess the ''ready to run'' cylinders weren't so ready to run. New set of pistons on the way. Anyone ever seen them wear so quick/bad across the intake bridge?

i got them back and painted them. im pretty sure they chamfer all 2 stroke ports?

just got cylinders back from millennium this morning, they did a beautiful job on the nikasil/hone/chamfer. Get some time next week ill get it togather and see how squish/comp comes out.

Air's not getting past the overbore in the carbs is it? Also make sure float bowls are on right sides, slides are in the right sides(half moon cut-out facing the back of quad). Crossover tube installed and airtight, chokes pulled out and cleaned and make sure they dont leak. and lastly carbs synced. This is from what i can remember, havn't had stock carbs in a while. The slides in wrong i know or no crossover tube will make it run terrible down low.

As i said in another thread, i've had a cdi that would randomly act up, sometimes it would give no spark, sometimes it would fire right up. I spent alot of time towing it to start it before i switched the cdi, that was 3 years ago and havn't had that type of problem since. The cdi is basically one of the non-testable parts from what i gathered, so if all grounds are good, no weird messed up kill switch or anything, and EVERYTHING ohm's out good, might try a known working cdi. YMMV.

ordered gaskets/new oring kit and other misc stuff from fast, waiting to hear from millennium still. Kinda curious how squish/compression is going to come out.

i had the same problem a long time ago, ended up being a shot CDI. if all else fails might try to swap a known working one in.

ive had a racetech stator for a year too, great results.

^ what special said. Bring extra spare trailer tires.

You didnt get the stage 12 port? damn you're missing out on alot of power...

Asking jeff would be you're best bet if you wanna get it right in there, he's pretty cool and will help you out with whatever you need. For reference.. I had close to the same setup except fmf's and an HJR dune port, was at 27.5 pilots and 330 mains, at sea level.

The permatex stuff isnt silicone, it's every bit as hard as jb weld, only reason i would bring it up, we used to on our jet ski and it's pretty amazing stuff. But like i said, i dont know how it would hold up to 24/7 in fuel/oil. I would just replace the carb though instead of trying to weld/tap or anything else.

damn...only 7k and it has raptor plastics... why do i always live so far from the smokin deals

Not sure if it will hold up to gas bit permatex makes a double part epoxy type thread maker..probably better ways though

Also, is there an optimal squish band depth as far as pump gas is concerned? i plan on throwing these in(bottom 24cc domes) when my cylinders come back to check squish and compression, and go from there. The squish band depth on the 24cc domes is about .370 (9.40mm)

wow, didnt know everyone else posted help, had the page open during dinner, guess it's all been covered

milage may vary, but id ohm out the spark plug caps or just replace them. im assuming you tore the bottom end apart and cleaned/checked the crank and then put it back togather and leak down tested the whole motor? make sure everything spins smooth. Do you have aftermarket pipes(t5/fmf/pro circuit ect..) and aftermarket air filter that's clean, if so the 300 mains should be fine, if not it's way huge. Air, fuel and spark.. tyler already covered all the critical simple things. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650 This is the best place to start if you have electrical or starting issues. Also make sure to compression check the motor to make sure you have 100+ psi and something didnt go off when i was machined.

In other news millennium got my cylinders, hopefully have them back in a week or two and figure this thing out. Thanks again for all the help everyone.

call passion, he will set you up

That's what i run, just dune trackers. If you're going once a year it's not make or break, i ran knobbies for a whole season.