apeik

x3 on the cdi, if everything else checks out, harness, and every other variable, get an extra. Worse case scenario is you end up with a spare which is never a bad thing. Back about 3-4 years ago I somewhat similar problem. Bike would start right when we got to the desert, run awesome.. but when it got hot and i shut it off for any reason it usually would lose all spark as far as kicking went and have to be pulled to start. Replaced it with a used oem one and never had a problem with it again. They can act up sometimes. Goodluck.

just use a bottle jack and a piece of oak braced on the upper frame...problem solved.

Great seller to do business with, even if he does like penis.

edit'd, not gonna mess up someone's thread.

<p>No.</p><p> </p><p>Sent from my HTC PH39100 using Tapatalk</p><p> </p><p> </p>

what's the paypal info.. and did the black hoodies end up being red/silver or blue/silver.

Sharp lookin bumper...the fact that it's functional is pretty awesome too. Most usually dont hold up to much. maybe down the road somewhere ill pick one up after the holidays when im not broke .

lets hope this fixes the problem...im so far in debt it's retarded now

what causes this, even the last set of pistons looked normal underneath, i just noticed this. Piston crown temps outta control?

Well, let's hope both of our problems are solved, ive been fighting retarded overheating and detonation for a long time hopefully because of this crank...there's really nothing else it could be unless my cdi went bad..but would just not advance at all and run bad i would think. Incidentally ive read alot of threads about crank reviews and whatnot in the last week or two, every thread i could find in fact, and it's to bad about the wiseco cranks, back in 2003-2007 only thing you heard was rave reviews of them being bulletproof...then they turned to junk after that..according to old threads. I actually decided to step away from hot rods for once because ive read some good reviews on the new vito's 4 mil LR crank...let's hope it pans out, im just tired of going out and not being able to ride over and over, has wasted alot of money just to keep it parked in camp.

should also note that the primary gears were lined up..at least sitting still...is there a chance under high rpm/power it was actually pulling the whole assembly over and then relaxing and moving back over? the whole crank is a pile of crap so i guess it doesnt really matter at this point...i shouldnt be to suprised since i knew going in the crank was less then optimal with loose bearing's everywhere...just didnt have the 400 to replace it at the time, since i had so much going to just make it work with pipes/carbs/pingle and all the other stuff you generally need.

yes, new one's is coming with normal bearings, and it's definetly a TZ roller bearing. I asked jim from passion if i should run it before i every put this motor together the first time...and he said it would be fine, that's how the guy i bought it from was running it. i knew it wasnt right with helicial cut gears though...

Here's a pic of the wristpins, if you look closely you can see lines going lengthwise down the wristpins where the wristpin bearing runs...and you can ever so slightly hang a nail on one or two of the marks. These were obviously new with the pistons with less than 2 hours...these looks worse than the one's that backed the plugs out 5+ times last time it was together, which i dont think had any of these marks. I would think crazy detonation...but the left plug was backed out once, about 4 turns with these wristpins in.

forgot pics of the wristpins, ill get them up in a bit, they dont look to out of the ordinary though. This crank was like this when i got it as well.... Ready to Run and tight....

this is a video link of big end bearing play Pto side is a tz bearing btw.

So, got it torn down, stator side crank seal one lip is completly smooth(even though it didnt lose pressure). Big end bearings on old crank are loose...to the point you can twist the rod and it over 3mm of small end play. My question is, is this just from running lean, or did the crank have alot to do with this piston sieze/smear. Both pistons with maybe a little more than an hour runtime if i had to guess, have a sieze type looking mark up the front left exhause corner of the piston, the side that backed the plug out once is the one in the picture. Brand new nikasil, and brand new pistons. Also there was some blowby on the transfer sides right past rings, on both pistons which is a first.

how much are the black hoodies going to be? im in for a 2x one

probably the guy that had it before me on alky, dropping the clutch about a billion times...course i was told the crank was tight. And i was also told it was just welded and true'd 2 rides ago, and that the whole package was ready to run. lesson learned, the whole package i bought turned out to be a beat up pos, and i shoulda bought new, i woulda saved money, and had new stuff. without problems from the get go.

just figured id update, thanks to Nate, at kan powersports... he killed a few hours out of his day to walk me through checking crank phase and it appears it's as much at 7 degree's out, causing deto on one side. ill keep this updated since it's such a weird problem.

Thanks Nate, ill give you a call tomorrow. And thanks everyone so far for the help, means alot, nice having somewhere to turn. If you have a fucked 250r you're pretty much screwed lol.

Had the pipes off yesterday, silencers/stingers were clear, can see through headpipes, but just some oil residue in there from probably a few jet sizes to rich. I was praying something was wrong with my impeller the other day when i pulled it apart...then it would all makes sense. I just hope before long i figure it out, because there's no point in even taking it to the desert anymore, it's like a 7k paperweight...a fast overheating paperweight . i wish i didnt have everything in this, and i had extra cylinders/crank/head to test with, it's the only thing i cant just rule out, even though the cylinders just came back from millennium and all.

Next question, I used to run a noss coolhead which worked great, do the pro design ones not cool the water jackets, or direct water into them? Was about to just get another moss to rule it out, if the pd ones don't perform as well

I've been losing sleep over this for months trying to figure out what could be causing it. Tried so many different approaches. Throwing in all new impeller, seals, bearing, high flow. Had someone go over port hights with me a while back, its not much different than cast, except wider ports in areas. The only thing different than my old setup, is crank cylinders, and pd coolhead, pipes and carbs, but it was overheating before the carbs and pipes.

It's definetly wider at the end of squish band, I have the solder still, ill measure it tomorrow. Think it was closer to .072 or more at inside of squish band

These domes were out of a good running cub on pump gas, never overheated. Just went back and read the text.