AKheathen

well, the only reason it would do better is if you are adjusted too rich on thoe pilot/airscrew, and mabey needle. they lean out the bottom a bit, but do not do anything for power.....just tune your carbs good and sync and it will run better and have more throttle response with the stock tube.

yah, it will not run for shit with a 15, hahaha......yah that should be about right with around 30

that doesn't nescicarily mean that they are 28's...unless they are bored that size all the way through......i measured 3 different stockers and they are all around 28mm..(1.105") you cansee what the fully bored carbs look like to the slide......those in the background are aftermarket bored, so they are shinier....

well, you might be looking at te rs.....it could be overloading the cdi......could be the coil, too. they have been known to have heat issues, and neef to cool, once they go bad...

what about homo's again?

did you retorque after the heat cycles? leave the cap off during the cycles?.....did you add more oil to the premix and not adjust jetting?

twist/spin the spring so the end of it issomewhere else.......like clocking it...

BANSHEE HATERS UNITE!!

and don't over tighten them...that will make them raise and gap.....

yuo try fliping the spring or rollong it?

just go down to the dmv and tak to them. explain how you are building a custom frame, and they will set you up to get a vin plate put on the frame somewhere, and new title to match.....

well, now....did you tune for a hot engine, not cold?

first, clean yur carbs out real good....filters, too

here's a thaught,,,,are you sure you're not running rich on the pilot and needle? if it starts fine cold, and not hot, that could be your prob....give it just a little throttle, and it would start.....but not easy..

you need to check what pilot and airjet are in there....if it has loaded up with fuel, it may be sitting in the pipes, causing blockage....and make sure the float arm is adjusted, and get some spring clamps for your fuel line

well, are they stock 26's, bored out stock carbs, or 28's? you would usually just go down 1 size on the main, if any. get it pinned wot, mid-high rpm range, and see what it does. if it starts to sputter, then go down in size untill it can hang up at wot no sputter, then do a plug chop. you shouldn't loose power going to the box. can you snap a pic of the carbs?,,,oh and some of that sexy bitch of a bike

well, you really need the spot, imo. you can get 10 degrees, 15, etc. it all depends on what ridding you do. the floods come in handy for tight, technical shit. if you go brighter and narrower on the spot, you can ride faster, but you can see alot better in the technical with a brighter flood, but still see decent on the spot. if you don't get technical, then 2 spots, 1 wider angle, 1 narrower

they are standard mr-16 bulbs and that's what sets the brightness/beam angle, etc. they give you bulbs, but you put whatever you want in there, just like the trailtechs.....just buy new ones when the housings wear out. i run a 20 and a 50, one spot, one flood, but you can pick whatever you want from the hardware store, just keep it to 70 watts total on a stock stator.

they are standard mr-16 bulbs and that's what sets the brightness/beam angle, etc. they give you bulbs, but you put whatever you want in there, just like the trailtechs.....just buy new ones when the housings wear out. i run a 20 and a 50, one spot, one flood, but you can pick whatever you want from the hardware store, just keep it to 70 watts total on a stock stator.

they are standard mr-16 bulbs and that's what sets the brightness/beam angle, etc. they give you bulbs, but you put whatever you want in there, just like the trailtechs.....just buy new ones when the housings wear out. i run a 20 and a 50, one spot, one flood, but you can pick whatever you want from the hardware store, just keep it to 70 watts total on a stock stator.

first thing, have you replaced the plug caps lately? check the pickup gap, plug gaps, grounds......i know you did the whole harness recently, but that doesn't mean it's all good.....go over it again....

i would stick with stock carbs tuned right, and go with pro-circuits, coolhead with 20cc domes, or shaved head. advanced timing, lower gearing with bigger tires. if you have more money, +2+1 a-arms, and good shocks. the rear can be re-valved and perform excellent. clean-up or woods port. get 3 hd springs and a pancake bearing for the clutch, so it won't give you any problems, with the trail abuse....there's alot you can do, and you will find the other knick nacks when you feel there needs to be an improvement somewhere...