AKheathen

well, for starters, "a little tight" is a bad thing and not let them engauge completely and/or weld the ball. you want it loose enough to just release them as much as you need. it will "tighten up" as the plates wear. as for the slipping only in lower gears, that is generally not how it works when it slips. normally, it is in lower rpms and higher gears that it is the worst, due to the decreased leverage to the output, giving it more load. geartrain, however, is just like that. do you notice any poping or shuttering feeling when it happens? how is the sproket hub fit on the axle? i had mine worn to the point of slipping over the splines in the lower gears, but holding fine at higher speeds....

well, belive it or not, with too high of flow, cooling efficiency to in both the cylinders and radiator drops dramatically. i do not have the data/calculations to back this up either, just real-world experience from both snomobiles and dirt track racing. in the sno-machines, people would just ditch the thermostat for both flow or sticking, and those who did not install a restrictor/washer in it's place would enevitably blow a head gasket, or melt a piston, no matter how you warmmed it up, and the coolant never overheated untill it stoped. on the cars, there was all kinds of cooling issues both durring and after the heat. now, as for the cold climates(sub-zero), i can tell you that i had really bad overheating/boil-over conditions, even with brand new conventional (green) coolant at any safe ratio. simply switching to dexcool solved this problem in exact circumstances, due to the tranfer properties of the chemical itself. this showed the effect of extreme teperature differences inhibiting thermal transfer. i would not, however run a thermostat in a banshee unless you have already greatly increased the flow rate, and only do so with some sort of partial bypass installed as well....

well, moving the plate could have done 2 things to help it start.....first, it grinds fresh ground contact for better spark, and 2nd, it can change the pickup gap clearance....try setting it back at +4 and readjust the PICKUP gap on the flywheel node. you can use a sparkplug box for thickness

2 things i do differently.......first, i only run 1 side at a time, and 2nd, i don't actually chop. i just look down to the bottom with a magnifier and measure ther ring with something, like a toothpick, or o-ring pick. then just run the same plug and keep as spares, since they are sill new. but i have been running the same $20 denso's for over a year, so, aside from chop runs and 1 time after pressure wahing too much, i haven't needed them. my dealer only charges $2, but you can get them online, or at a performance shop for that, or cheaper.....once you are experienced with the sound and feel of what is rich or lean, you won't need to do any chops anymore anyways....unless there is another issue...

well, i am a mikuni man, so i couldn't confidently get you that close. best advise i can give, is to look through the "what is your jetting" thread, and compare. and to start a little rich on the mains and go duwn just till it stops sputtering @ wot warmmed up, then tune the needle, then pilot.

well, the timing doesn't effect the jetting that much, but you could hav had a bad connection causing weak spark, and moving the plate could've fixed it....

well, i'm not sure on anything other than fmf silencers, since they are not tuned to a specific pipe, but other silencers controll the pipes' efficiency, so cutting it will change that, and most likely not for the better.....but, i have always felt fmf's downfall is their "wide range" silencer selection anyway, and have personally seen gains in changing them out for toomy silencers, which are indeed shorter and smaller.......would be nice to bring the pics back to this thread, though......

the kill switch uses the black and black/white, and the lights use yellow for power and yellow for high and green for low beam

well now.......that IS the noise you heard......the flywheel shit itself and was beating on your pickup. the stator is most likely perfectly fin, in fact, i have seen way worse run....but you need an new pickup-(that little black box on the stator)

well, you see that culinder sticking out of the top? and notice how there is a dot on there, and how it is in line with that little window? and here is what it looks like when it is bottomed out correctly at idle

that's pretty nasty....i bet it ran pretty hot. what do the pistons look like? missing a reed screw? and, yah, it liiks like a bad re-sleeve jobber...

they're not too bad if you bend them back and lock them down right

yes, do that. it will tell you if the mains are too rich for the lid. lid is 2 sizes different. really, double check the boost bottle for leaks in the intakes.......it will also do pretty much that if you are just low rpm's. about close to doing a proper plug chop by now

describe what you are talking about a little better? you remove the idle screw from the side of the carb and the cap screws on? or the cable adjuster from the middle of the cap? it really sounds just like the slide is in wrong....pics would really help right now

so, you sheared the key after putting on the new flywheel and current stator? only way that happens is if the flywheel comes loose, since it is an interfereance fit. if the pickup was adjusted right, it would have been hit by the flywheel. either way, i'd re-adjust it. what do the plugs look like when you try to start it? did you mess with any adjustments or put pressure on the float arm? did the bowl go on easy?

wow........

rmember to get the mains dialed in for wide open throttle, only, then tune the needle

you should get the mull star instead.... http://cgi.ebay.com/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-NEW-BILLET-SHIFT-STAR-HEAD-CYLINDER-DRAG_W0QQitemZ170418127678QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item27adb6433e and the shift shaft can be modded, but you will probably need a new spring or something, but you don't know untill you get in there

oh, and my pipes are poor-mans p/c, haha....it's vht ceramic coating baked on

the issue was that i beat the ever-living dog shit out of it with 22's and extra weight. 2nd gear starts and slipping the technical hillclimbs, asphault shit, mudding, you name it.......mabey being a mechanic keeps my forearms in shape, but new stock springs will wear down. i actually enjoyed testing the limits, but i figure it can stand to have a little more pressure. that was on stock porting. i'm sure i could make it last just fine, but i'd rather get nasty with it and have a little firmer grab

na, that's just the locator......click up there where it says "BHQ sponsors" next to the smaller banner at the top of every page. i believe it is mull, and i think charriot that has the package....they also talk about it in product reviews, i believe....it's just a new designed star, that i know mull makes, and the modded shift shaft

most likely 280-290 mains, but remember you are gonna move 2 sizes between seasons

sounds like your slide is in wrong. when it is correct, it will drop down an inch

NOOB!...... haha, j/k.....it takes at least 5mm to pop the rings out usually, so, yah, you have a long rod stroker.......i'm going wsm, since they offer both longrod, but coated as well. wsm only has .5mm size options, though....

did you hook the choke tube back up? did you adjust the pickup/flywheel gap correctly on the stator?