AKheathen

yes, just get your woods/mx port and run the single. that doesn't focus on topend anyways. i personally prefer wildcard racing, but do some looking around on the site sponsors and chose who you like best. the best will port it specifically for your setup and needs, which includes factoring the single carb.

DICK!......... ...haha, no, that is 2 dofferenet scinarios you are comparing. the silencer chamber is more comparable to a tuned stinger, when packed. when the packing blows out, the backpressure gets messed up and you loose a bit of scavenging in the lowend, hence power. not so noticable, is the mid-top loss because there is now a stronger puls reflecting back into the flow path, creating some unwanted restriction. you can actually install some thin coper pipe in the baffle, if you wanted to and it would act like a stinger pipe, lol.

well, remember that it's not just the bore size that changes it. when you go from stock carbs with the emultion tube setup to an aftermarket carb with the needle jet/airjet. the draw on the jet changes a bit, too. as well as slide design cutout pitch, and bore design

actually, there is a noticeable lowend gain from doing it.

let me put it to you like this- i ran 90oct sea level with 20cc domes and +.5 bore on stock port and timing. i bumped to 50/50 when i went with +5.5 timing. didn't need to go that high oct, but it was easy to mix. jetting was never lean, not even a little, and always fresh fuel. i know i can run 100ll strait if i put in my 18's, but i have to be on top of the fuel all the time. if you are at sea level, 19's or 20's with added timing will still be forgiving if you keep the squish around .050"

you may be over carbed, but it soounds like your jetting was off, which is highly likely at a beach...

i would say it's a good starting point, if you have pipes that match your setup.

yah, stay away from rs, they also have been made out of round and not 180 degrees on the nodes also. your best bet is to get a big nut welded on there and pull. a 3-jaw will just make it flex and put more clamping pressure on the shaft. once the heat has transfered from the welds, to where it sits on the shaft, put the bolt in and sinch it down. if it doesn't pop, hit the head of thebolt and it should come. btw, good used stockers are in kinda high demand right now, from what i've seen.

yah, that sprocket went from waved, to skipping over. the problem with running that chain is that i gaurantee the sprocket has streatched it out, and as you put force on it, the streatched chain will only put force on 1 roller at a time and once again wear down the sprocket fast. the best thing that would happen is a chain break. i baught my chain on ebay for like $30 shipped. it's a race driven and has high tesil strength. so far, it has performed awesome over the past year, which is far better than i expected. check your swingarm bearings, too. grab the rear grab and jerk it side to side to see play in the pivot bearings

i had a knocking like that this summer. it felt like a chain skip, but was the sprocket hub jumping splines. i had to replace the axle and hub. check for any play there first. it went from a little bit to a lot really quick. be carefull not to overtighten the chain, too, or you can break the output bearing, or crack the cases when you bottom out. i like to ratchet the swinger to the bumper untill the sprockets and swing pivot are in line, then suck up any slack.

why waste $10 so you can get money a few hours early. i'm just saying he is a good guy whos' name you unecisarily drug through the mud. you should've took the refund in the begining if you honestly lack the patience you agreed to. a little recless not to think of what damage a rep can do, imho.

there is absolutely no problem with 100LL, if you have the compression and timing to need that much octane. i also run it. the best thing is that it is allot cleaner and more consistant due to faa regulations. also, i found that it atomizes really well, the higher elevation you ride. the downside, is that if you do not have enough compression, like any high octane fuel, it will run like poo and loose power. i experienced this first hand running a tank of 100ll and switching to 95 (50/50 90 and 100ll) and it is dfinaely noticable

yah, simple first, lol. what changed? did the temps get above freezing, where humidity will jump, and make you rich? was it a difference between new fuel, or really old fuel added? how are the air filters? check for airleaks and dirty carbs.

well, i believe that is the result of google translator, actually. ok, from what i got out of it.... 1 boost bodles are bad, ok 2 the dynatek ignition is a verry nice peice, if you need it, because, yes, you can change different timing curves by flipping the switches, and it increases spark energy on your stock coil for better firing and starting. 3 the dyna will just plug in where the stock cdi belongs and work perfect, but you have the option to connect more to it. 4 the cdi will NOT correct the jetting for the pipes. you still have increase the jet size to match. same thing if you change or remove the airbox. 5 you can mill the head for higher compression, but you can only go as far as .030" before you also have to re-cut the chambers, or else the piston will hit. you can also buy a "coolhead" "power head" "hemi head" which you can buy domes of the size you want. the domes are the chambers. i say you want 20 or 21 cubic centemeters (cc) for 95 octane, but your elevation can change that size. 6 i believe you are talking about the tors delete. it is a good thing to do. they do fail and shut off your spark. the big peices on the top of the carbeurators get in the way and put extra weight on the rubber intakes, also causing them to crack. it is simple to do if you have patience and do not rush the repair. and, finally. tell us your riding temperature and elevation and we will tell what size fuel jets to install in your carbeurators.

probably pretty close actually........just run it for a while and see what you think

holy crap, if i knew earlier, i have a bore gauge set you could use to get your specs and a bunch of parts/tools. i live on lake otis/huffman. i'm flying to work tomorrow, but you can still catch me tonight if you want, or i will be gone for 3 weeks.

well, actually 2 things- the calculator is still pinned with the rest of the tech threads at the top of the section, just in the single pinned topic where they all are, so it doesn't take up half the page. and 1 tooth in the front is about 3.2-3.6 teeth in the rear, depending on how many total teeth.

holly crap you guys fly off the handle easy. i have bought from him in the past, and wouldn't hesitate to do so again. i know exactly what it's like to fly off to work. internet, if even availiable usually isn't good enough to get past reading something like an email, and the situation was explained ahead of time........

wow, i would've jumped to a 13/42 instead. a smaller sprocket on the front does put less force on the motor. i was just saying to try out the 13 before dropping in the rear also. rider weight was also one thing i was considering. well, at least you will have less strain on the chain now.

money sent #14&38

man, i've been lookin for any pro-circuit silencers for like 8 months. i'll take a cheap set to match my $50 beat-up pipes, lol

welcome.... first off, save yourself some money and do not buy the boost bottle or jet kit. the boost bottles do not do anything for performance, and are highly known for tearing the rubber intakes and causing a bad airleak that could melt the pistons. as for the jets, simply buy jets on individual sizes, instead of paying 10x as much for a kit. as far as picking the correct size, we will need to know your elevation and ridding temperatures and can get you in a close range. now for the coolhead, it will add some good power. the dome size will also depend on what your elevation is and what octane fuel you are running. i can tell you that 21cc domes will be safe anywhere, but, you may be able to run even smaller and gain more power, depending on your circumstances.

alright, this is really starting to sound more like a "what gearing are you running" thread than actually answering what's best for the origional poster. i still say to try the 13 and run 22's

also, have you tried trimming the wire back a little bit to get to good wire, and testing with the wires removed completely?

ok, here's what i do all winter.......pull the choke and start it no throttle......it might die, just do it again....after 5 seconds or so, i start bliping and reving untill it cleans out some, and let it idlewith the choke off after that.......then i unload it from the trailer or whatever for a min and go play around a bit on it for a min and then gear up. when jetted properly, it's not gonna run clean for swhit unless it's warmmed up anyways