AKheathen

sorry, i only got as far as a few words into the second post. not trying to be a dick, but you should try and learn how a 2-stroke really works. let me give you a couple hints: you never want detonation, ever. even in a diesel, what you could technically call detonation, is really still labled as ignition. (pre-detonation is a made-up word as well). if all the cylinder got to compress was 14.7psi, it would never run on anything less volatile than acetalene. these are obvious things. spend a month learning from this site. the real info is posted all over. you are playing with the big-boys now.

what is the purpose/build of the motor? most will benefit long-rod. high-reving, low-mass needs would be where a sort-rod would come into play. by hig-reving, i mean well over 11,000rpm's. a short-rod could be built to last a while, but for an off-track rig, i would mostly just stick with the long-rod. it is what 90% of 4mills are for a reason.

man, you could have thrown them this way. they get hot as a sumbish, but work for maglights and such. i just got 12 plcc for testing. gotta find a bunch of useable ones cheap to cook on the test circuits to find some overrun effects

if they are still thick enough, just ream the centers real quick and be done.

what's the highes discharge rate you've put on them? and, what charging method/rate? i'm not sure how much the lipo batteries have changed in 5years or so. i just remember what i learned when they were coming availabe for my rc plane, that, if they do go, they have much more energy than any other common battery. the main fix for this is charge and discharge controllers and internal heat sensor/switch. got a link to your lights? still using those same raw leds, or did you find newer stock?

lipo batteries are dangerous, and take a special charger for safety reasons. as long as you mount it well with good cooling and don't exceede max recomended drain rate, you could make it work.

seems a bit much just to kill some idle flicker. if you are really worried about the reverse voltage, wire one of these inline: http://www.digikey.c...ND/3451530��pdf data sheet: http://www.diodes.co...45SD1.pdf.��one of these alone can handle the max load of a stock stator with minimal loss, and only $0.90 each. again, i suggest wiring one light out of polarity with the other to get the best performance from the stator. a guy could use 4 of these in a dc conversion, as well.

couldn't you mod the stock cover with a plexi lense? isn't someone making a quick-change kit?

it is possible. if you read the thread, you should know that you need to post octane level. also, it will be more suceptable to detonation if you go a little lean, use old fuel, or over-heat.

actually, it was designed not to let you force the gear, but that doesn't leave room for wear. if you've been into other trans, you would notice that the banshee trans is more than 2x over-built due to it's nature. i have a lot of respect for the banshee trans in retrospect. and, the banshee trans is base from the sme as the rz, but not the same exactly.

move the lever with your hand, and the pertch lever(cable) backed off. you should be able to feel it moving the lever on the case, so you have 1/8"-1/4" of play from where it rests to where it stops again. the spring is pretty strong, but you'll still feel the adjustment. once you have that, adjust the cable so that the arrows line up. that is, if the free-play is moving past the arrows in both directions. more than 1/4" and you don't get full good release, and less and it will have to be re-adjusted at the bearing real soon, as wear/break-in will never let the load off the bearing/pusher and slip the clutch constantly.

yah, so? and the shaft can wear just about as much as they do it. and they only clearance for the upshift, like i did on mine

those 0-rings are not always a good seal, though they thechnically shouldn't leak. and yes, copper is a real common high pressure seal, and thread-saver. most commonly, found on drain/fill plugs and fuel lines. i have used blue rtv silicone to seal the nuts. as long as the copper is not paper-thin, it should still do it's job. re-torque after a couple heat cycles.

can you explain that 3rd pic? looks like burned leaking multiple gaskets with sealant on them....

actually, there are a couple corrections i'd like ot point out. first, the stator works on a push-pull paired windings setup. what this means, is that the magnet polarity in the fly wheel is alternating. one magnet pushes the fieldaway from the magnet to the next pole, where that magnet is, at the same time pulling. when it moves one magnet, it does the opposite. that is how it is generating ac. if the stator was wound in alternating circuits, then all poles would be either pushing, or pulling, and not pass across the circuit, other than a transient magneto effect. one thing about the led failure, is the reverse current and resistance. when the direction changes, there is actually some leakage allowed to pass, and there is also heat and break-down created. this effect is greatly correlated to the purity of the surface media. manufacturers are constantly improving the purification and contamination control in their facilities to improve efficiency, output,(both amount, and coor quality) and durability. that is why led christmas lights are now practical, and why they can even make a high-output led in the first place. so, i suppose it really depends on the led manufacturer, and when they were made. i am actually in the process of designing new led drive ic circuitry to further improve the output and efficiency of led's. i would venture to say, it is plausable that you can now buy lights like that that will not have an issue running ac, but it is not likely to be on the cheaper side. as for advise, i would at least switch the polarity of one light, so that each light takes a different side of the wave. this way, one light will both use, and shunt the power that would otherwise be opposing the other light. it will also free-up a lot more flow from the stator, allowing it to run full-wave, rahter than half-wave, as you are probably running.

i think you can still find it in the tech. links section. again, i would also suggest a 4mil stock cyl trail port 30mm carbs will be fine. have you concidered buying a new one? do they still sell them? i haven't kept up with if/when they stopped making them, or if they stopped aus sales yet. generally, you don't want more than +2 in the trails, but can get away with +4, and many go with -1/-2 for trails for hook-up, but i would find myself back-slidding a hill under my bike with less than stock, and i ride woods, and 4x trails. only other type of ridding i go to is the roads to get there, and the monster climbs, if/when i do find them. i like to say i'm ridding the woods to get to the hills, but it does end up being over 90% woods/trail. i rarely have a problem with a 50" rear wheel width. pro-circuit pipes are what you want.

i run 3hd springs on a lockup, and that's it. just enough that the clutch will grab with a little slip in 2nd on take-off, or up in the trails/hills. might get away with 2 hd springs. after a half hour or so, i feel it. other's don't like it at all, but i have mechanic hands.

i would only do it to a minor extent. enough to account for any shaft wear.

not mentioned, but it also apears likely to be a banshee retrofit. the banshee flywheel has 12 alternating magnets, which is how it works. this one has to be operating with each circuit on every 3rd pole, set-up to work on the 12-pole flywheel. check if the yellows ohm to ground. doesn't look that high of power either, but i suppose it is possible. the 12-pole flywheel and 18pole stator is not uncommon, but the patched wiring looks like it might be intended for dc oem use. the blue is real potting, and i haven't seen real clear potting, just opaque cream would be the closest. clear is an enamel of sorts, which has higher cooling ability than the thick potting media. i haven't heard bad about electrosport/moose, but those ignition coils show they have seen some heat....

maybe he got it off bangshee, lol........ what swinger is that anywho? might be interested. what part of ak you at?

again, go with brandon. he's a good guy that know's his stuff, and heart in every project. that being said. the main differences in lr vs sr, is mostly longevity. the longer rod will have a more linear angle to not only reduce piston rock, but increase piston leverage on the crank at more degrees. the trad-off is more mass. this usually doesn't matter, or even make that mich of a difference untill you get over 10, and guys going into the 14k+ are the type to start looking at the better ballance up there, but if you are not the rare few, and plan on actually getting some time out of the motor, then there is no real reason to want a short rod crank. i had a couple 4mills built in both long and short, just because i could, but belive you me, the long rod is for real playing. the short rod is for shop-time play.

just remember: you can take your dune ported cyls off and drag port them, then put them back on with just new gaskets of you need to move the poer up the band, but once you go drag, there's no going back without new cyls.

depends on your pockets. often, you can find a gould used top-end all mated up and redy to rock. or, you can port to what you want. a dune port should be fine for getting out in the open and letting her fly. might even get away with a drag, but you will loose a tone of bottom-end drive-ability if you need to get a little technical in the trails. advanced timing will give you that low-mid punch, but if you are looking at the top-end pipe power, it may be better off stock, especially if you go to smaller chambers. the size of chmbers should be best chosen by the guy who ported the cylinders, and the fuel/timing you run, as whell as the elevation/environment.

from the looks, you successfully installed and ran that motor before sheering. once installed properly and adjusted, there actually should not be a load on those studs, well not tortional, just the spring pressure. the load of the hub/plate is through the mating splines. find out why you are not carying the load ther, like mis-alligned. you can actually put them on wrong. one way will mate, and the next bolt hole over will not line up on the splines. if the splines are trashed, it might let it sip up on the studs, but i have yet to see that. if the clutch is adjusted even near to correctly/useable range it shouldn't let it extend far enough to be an issue. you only have the stock 7-plate setup, right?

using the same fork? could be bent, as well...