AKheathen

that was my origional plan with the cp-9 friction/ceramic combo from swaintech, like yours......in a prolite....but i heard/saw pics of major galling, but idk if it was oil starved or not......anyways, i decided to go with the wsm ported/teflon piston

what all have you looked into? did you try swapin reeds to the other side? plug caps? do you still have your stock stator to try? do you still have those reed spacers on the cyl side? try them on the carb side. synced the carbs? chouroughly cleaned the carbs? leakdown test? gapped the plugs down a bit?

speaking of "other aplications" the first thing i looked for when i got the shee was sealed power teflon coated pistons, lol. they had a verry noticable improvement in throttle response and power in the hp454 i built for an airboat.....man, that thing ran

what do the plugs look like? have you checked the spark on that side/both? when you say full dyna, what coil is on there? is it o.e. replacememnt, or "high energy"? make sure that it is compatible with the dyna fs.

that is not nesicarily true....depends on how they are designed. also, it may be to help prevent sticking and/or deflection for a longer seal life. another thing about wsm- their ported/windowed piston is the only one made to retain structural strength with the extra boost port and widened windows, as apposed to a modified piston, where you risk it breaking.

lol, yah, you guys really want just ceramic coatings. not sure on the selection more than clear, white, "chrome" and mabey some basic colors, but it's the same coating they use for headders, and it is pretty much all ceramic content that is being applied. we have a local place here in ak, but the big difference is that once you properly cure it fully, it doesn't discolor at all, plus the insulating effect. the pipes in my sig pic are actually vht coating from the parts store in an aerosol can. i bake cycled it 4-5 times to cure it. that was one of the verry first things i did when i got the bike, and they are still platinum white all the way to the cylinders

well, the real answer comes by checking the center tolerances and rod deflection. alsi center seal clearance.....once you do that, it will tell you which way to go. having it trued/welded, while sucking the clearance up, will by far be the cheapest, reliable rout, but if it needs to be torn down for repair, there will ba allot more $$$ in labour. given the outter bearings are both bad, i would guess that the webbing has strained, and it will at the minimum need a true/weld to last at all, and brings question to the rest of it.

...but the drum/fork assy binds with no gearing installed.........but, of coarse, you have to have the forks up where they will ride on the gears

i said read the books to get your calculations, and an idea on angles, timning, and such, not find a short-cut out of it. i bet there is 50 more things in there that you should not do to a banshee engine. didn't you post about using a power piston and get the answer about scalloping? and then you have this idea to mess up a set of cylinders and rig up a bunch of machine work with the spacer, insted of just making the cut. if you put half the effort into how you are going to approach and carry out the cuts, you could make it happen for yourself. also, i bet you can get someone, probably the guy you had look at the cyls, to cut just the roofs cheap....and i think i have said that before. agbell, will get you a good idea on how stuff works, but jennings will get you ready for porting, and you already have the answers to what the banshee likes....you just need to move your focus from how to pick out some shortcuts that might work with the recources you have, and derive a way to do it right, which may just be 1/2 the effort, anyways. that is why i'm callin you a dummy. no one, but an experienced banshee cyl porter, or info derrived from them is going to get you a hold-hand walkthrough, or they would loose buisiness. "actually tried to help".......um, yah, about that. i know that i have personally more than helped you in and out of your threads....and that is why it bothers me.......have you ever even thrown those cyls on there since that post before?............well, good luck with your new venues.....mabey a moody little prick will throwy a # or 2 your way if you decide to follow through

pull the forks and shafts and see if they move freely oiled......they should pretty much "flop" around the shafts if you just tilt it and let them slide. and, while they are out, move the shift drum around installed. x2 on making sure the forks are on right. if you mix them up, the drum will try to move a fork further than it wants to go, since there is different offsets

umm, why does the poll include vitos and namura, but not wsm......i think that wsm is generally the biggest weisco competitor, well over the other brands.......i "penciled in" wsm, lol

you dummy. just about every week you come up with a stupid shortcut to get around biting the bullet and just doin it right. you realize how important the squish band is, and how much scalloping a piston anywhere effects it? just bite the bullet, and find a way to cut your transfers right, or have someone do it.

um, what exactly are you looking for? stock shocks? aftermarket shocks with yellow springs? a-arms and shocks? what about the rear and swinger? lookin for that, too? these things might hepl people step up whith what they have, lol. i know there is a guy sellin a full elka setup, and if you can find a good deal, just pc the springs.....

well, where did the gouges come from? stuck to the flywheel?

can you check shipping on the shift drum to 99516, anchorage, alaska?

i noticed that, lol. upload them to a photobucket account.

first thing that came to mind is the same as blowit. imballance. even a loose, or improperly seated flywheel can tear a crank apart. so what happened there? looks like the flywheel came loose and shot the key around. you are going to need to dress that up square, and deburre/degauled, to use it.

yes, most industrial solvents do, even the organic solvents.........in about 1 min after contact. at least that's with rubber o-rings and such

you know, i always see a bunch of "i like to....." and never just do it by following std. plug install directions.....get used to doing that, and then you just do it by feel with a combo wrench.....

my best freind is the only one who has ridden my bike, because he knows how to ride the 650ds baja we built up...and i can ride his...other than that, i feel like shit tellin people no, but i still have it in one peice when i hop on

while the loctite it setting up, i moved on to modifying the backplate. note that i used a variable speed electric drill. this is not because i don't have the proper tool, or that i don't want to use air, it is because you need to use low and medium speed- moderate pressure to cut the tapers into the plate, which is made out of a t-1 or spring steel. a regular hss bit will likely fail before making a cut, aside from it being the wrong angle. because i do not have a press, only hand-held tools, and carbide bits, that is the rout i went. start with spraying liberal amounts of wd-40 on the bit and hole and Begin with the 1/2" ball on med, or low (1&2 setting on dewalt) or just low if you don't have med. apply a bit of pressure on it as you start to cut the hole out bigger and find the right speed that does not chatter or grab. you should see fine angle hair curls coming out as it is cutting. stop every once in a while to spray the bit and wipe excess material out of the way. stop once there is no longer the vertical lip of the original hole, for the 1/4" screws, or once the 5/16 screws can go through. if you are using the 5/16 bolts, then switch to the 3/4 ball bit, and continue cutting the hole at low speed with moderate to light pressure, until the top of the cutout is about 1/16" smaller then the head of the screw. you should have a nice, machined look to it, but you don't have to have it perfect. once you have lined up the holes the way they fit the best, install the screws in ascending sequence, until snug. tap them inward, but not excessively hard, as to damage the helicoils, and re tighten. repeat again, and then remove the plate, after marking it and the basket to line up again. if you want to use the gasket, like me, then trim it now, and re-assemble the gear assy. note the proper location of the cushions and conical washer. also note, that i have flipped the backing plate to give a new wear surface for the washer. install the bolts using the same ascending sequence, only, this time, it is best that you use an impact driver as shown (not impact gun) work your way around a few times after tightening fully with the hex key. before installing the screws, however, you want to make sure they are clean, and free of oil, and use blue loctite. here is your brand-spankin-used basket finished- note, that the screws are no longer than needed and do not stick out. it is advised that you soak your plates and go to bet now, to give the loctite time to fully cure. however, if you need to get it done now, then apply some heat to the whole assembly to 150f+ for a force cure, before installing. happy trails, and good luck. -Heath H-

what we have today is a hinson billet basket that has suffered from the gear bolts coming loose. this happens to not be the only one i have seen recently, so i figure i would do a writeup on repair and/or upgrade on how it is fastened. there is 2 options here.... first, being that you may simply upgrade to flat head flush mount screws and stronger steel thread replacement. the second, which i will show in a step-by-step process, is to upgrade the 1/4-20 fasteners to larger 5/16-18 size. lets start with the required materials. 4: 5/16-18 x 3/4" flathead socket screws. or 4: 1/4-20 x 3/4" flathead socket screws depending on which way you go. stainless preferred, and at least grade 8. the hex style will handle allot more torque, vs. Phillips version. 4; 5/16-18 or 1/4-20 thread repair kit, with at least 4 appropriately sized inserts. there are many different brand and style kits, and going with helicoil, and even some auto store brand kits will run you more than 2x what you should be paying, as the end result is the exact same with any kit. 1: locktite red, or equivalent 1: locktite blue, or equivalent 1: 1/2" ball carbide burr bit 1: 3/4" ball carbide burr bit....both can be substituted with a 45 degree mill or other cutting bit suitable for hard steel brake cleaner (note) wd-40 cutting/tapping oil preferred safety glasses and latex/nitril gloves advised OK, safety first.... brake cleaner, especially chlorinated, is really allot worse than many may think, even i have treated it carelessly for several years. for starters, (and you'll get a kick out of this one) breathing moderate amounts, not only "makes you lightheaded" but it effects your blood flow and nervous system. my example would be the story of the one time i was cleaning a cv joint on the floor. my wife came out and grabbed me for some action in the back.....well........10-15 min. later and still nothing goin on with the little captain.....another red flag which many rarely know about, is that, when burned, it can turn into a highly potent poisonous gas that can kill you slowly over a matter of days, and up to 2 weeks of agonizing pain before you go. all it takes is a tiny whiff, and 2 days later the symptoms start to appear. it also lingers in porous areas ans scratches, even though it appears to have flashed off. next, is the large amount of metal shavings/filings you will be dealing with. i highly advise you to wear any kind of eye protection, since it will all be covered in a harmful fluid, and it really sucks to get metal embedded in your eye, which happens all the time, even though you don't hear about it. i also like to have tight fitting gloves to deal with the mess of shavings and oil, and be able to rip them off for somewhat clean hands to handle other things. it is important that the gloves will tear off if you snag them on a rotary tool enough twisting your ear on safety, other than keep mind on good ventilation and enough work room and light to move around safely now, on to the meat of the project, lol. here, i have the rivets drilled and punched out of the stock basket to show how everything goes, and next to it....the damaged hinson we are going to repair. now, the inside of the basket, which is where you will drill form, to keep the bit from walking off-center and making an unusable hole. select the proper bit size and drill on the slow setting with moderate pressure, so that it makes nice curls, and doesn't chatter or grab. use just enough cutting oil, or substitute with atf/power steering fluid, and maybe wd-40 or marvel. here, i dropped all the bolts in the holes, and checked for on-center with the plate. my holes were off just a tiny bit, but workable. time to tap. alway start from the side the bolt will install from. it will be a little hard to get the tap started at first, but once it starts catching with a little pressure, you can still move it around a bit and get the tap squared up. you don't want to put any side load on it as you are turning, and you will need to back out until it pops and get easy every time you feel it start to bind. once again, use plenty of cutting oil here. continue until the end sticks out 1/8"-1/4" through the other side, and back it back out, and repeat with the others. clean all the shavings and oil with brake cleaner and allow to flash off. carbcleaner, intake cleaners, and electrical cleaners usually leave behind an unnoticeable oil film that will prevent adhesion. add just a drop of red loctite to the threads, not the insert before install. you don't want a bunch of it coming through and sticking the insert to the bolt when you need to remove it for any reason. and 1 drop creeps a long way. it may be hard, sometimes, to get some inserts started in the threads. just push in a little and keep screwing until it pops down into the threads, then just keep screwing them in normally until the very top thread is half covered by sitting in a full-depth thread that you tapped in the material. this is very important, as i have personally seen what happens when someone doesn't. the top thread pulls up and digs into the bolt when you are trying to screw it in or out. i tried to get a good pic of one that appears like it may be good, but still needs to go in a Little more, but my phone doesn't have macro, that i know of, lol. there are different methods with the different tools in various kits, which is usually to punch the tang off from the topside, but when you have access to the bottom of the threads, like we do, it is suggested to use needle nose pliers to twist the tang off, without prying the good threads out of their slot.

i usemy teeth

well, take solice in the fact that the frame damage is all too common, and easily repaired. it can be pulled back into place, especially, since it is only 1/2" out. i would not heat it to bend, but rather heat it after bending back into place. after you pry the tank out and remove the plastics, apply pressure on it whichever way and tap/ping the sides of the bent area to shock it to strait, and then heat up the whole 2 areas with a torch to relax the steel afterwards. it will need to be repaited.make sure the rear of the frame isn't twisted, though. after payin for repairs, he won't want to fuck off on your bike again, lol. and, stop being pissed off before you get started on repairs. just shrug it off, and enjoy fixing it back up for a better end result and experience.