AKheathen

fly is just a name brand. just look around at local moto/power sport shops, or dealers for what's on the shelf...

i just mean that, althoutgh it is kind of an important part of the stroker porting, getting the timing corrected is the biggest thing...,.

pretty easy to pull the engine and drop it on the bench. it can be intimidating first time to split the cases, but once you see everything and read the manual, it really is a pretty simple thing. just gott get that mode in your head, lol. after ripping a ds650 out, repairing the tranny, and stuffing it back in running in under 8 hours, the banshee really isn't much in comparison. you have to get to the bottom of the cases easy to split them, though.

oh, and if i was your builder, I'd smack you silly for your bs. it's pretty evident, that he explained a couple things to you and you just assumed and made up the rest to how it works in your head, now you are trying to pass it off as fact.... a little research into the subject does wonders

as i mentioned, the piston falling below the ports is not as big as getting the correct port timing. blow-down is the time between exhaust opening, and transfer opening, basically. with the increased stroke, it's significantly decreased, which is not good. about the short-rod, vs. long rod- the dwell time changes a little, and adversely all port timing, slightly, as mentioned, but what is not mentioned is the balance factor. the 110 rods also match closer to a balanced crank, since there is not enough meat in the webbing to balance a long rod, without drilling it and installing high density plugs. so, unless you spend the big bucks on a nice crank that has the plugs, then the short rod is going to rev quicker, and higher. the long rod, on the other hand, has increased dwell time, which propagates a more complete burn cycle and, subsequently more torque. speaking of torque, that is exactly what increasing stroke does- add torque. to say that you stroke to get topend, or just for drag-type buil is a strait fallacy. if you want more topend hp, you bore, if you want torque, you stroke. basic bore:stroke principal. so, you want something to lug around, you can go 10 mill, 18 mill, whatever you want to spend, but usually just 4 mill for us trail/woods kinda guys. what it all comes down to is how you want to set it up, and how much you are willin to spend. the reason you are seeing the huge strokers in the drag scene is because those guys are spending whatever they can to simply go as fast as possible, and usually have deep pockets to throw gobbs of $$$ at the motor. once you get 4mill in the trails, you really can't do much with it without spending a lot on suspension, etc, or the power just goes to waste spinning out and putting around near idle. so, lets put this thing back to simple, if possible in this thread....... 4mill stroker= piston moves an extra 2mm in all directions. the head has to have the extra clearance to even turn over. you can do this with a spacer plate above, or blow the cylinders, or more preferably/reliable, but recessing the chambers. the plate under the cylinders will change the port timing significantly, but correct nothing about it. to make the stroker run good, you need to port the cylinders so the all match timing with each-other. one part of the porting process is to match the bottom of the ports with the piston at bdc, for better flow, but it is NOT the reason for porting. there are 2 different rod lengths you can run stock 110mm rods, which use stock pistons, and long (115mm) rod, which needs long rod pistons. coincidentally, the blaster piston has the same crown to pin distance as a long rod piston, but requires a bigger bore, and different chamber design to run........... .........the stroker basics in a nutshell.....period.

anti-seize is a bad idea. you'll likely end up cleaning the mess it makes off after it comes loose, to and installing it dry, and probably repairing some damage, after getting towed back from the short ride. just install it dry. next time, crank up the heat, and the gas when you weld it on, and weld the flywheel, letting the puddle just pull into the puller. sap it off asap. the trick is to try to have the flywheel hot, with the crank as cold as possible. sometimes some shock is needed to make it pop, but usually heat will make it go. an oxy torch would be best, since it will make the flywheel hot the quickest, but the heat from welding will also do real good.

you won't like it, but i'm stickin with crank seal on the right cylinder. you can build a leak-down tester to verify that there is a leak, but you have to have the clutch cover off, or something like a balloon attached to the vents to verify that it is the seal. at this point, I'd already have the clutch cover and PTO gears off checking it out.....possibly that bearing is toast, too......

yah, just be carefull with the clip. it gets brittle. if you try trimming, and it doesn't work, switch the whole wire to the other post on the coil. if you can't narrow it to a coil or cap, then time to pull the stator cover and check the pickup gap on both sides of the flywheel. if it's damaged, or seated incorrectly, or just gapped too much (.002"-.004" difference is kinda normal), you will have to fix the issue.

oohh, geez...........you are reading too far in to some things and pulling this info out of your ass....... i think you need to become acquainted with the search feature for a bit.....oh, and don't really listen to much bs you are gonna see with slorider. anyway......with a long rod, you run long rod pistons, and the assembled height is exactly the same as a standard rod with standard pistons..plain and simple. now, the stroker of coarse moves the pin out 2mm, so you have that much more travel in all directions. now the spacer plate, is, in fact, solely intended to give you 1.5mm(+extra base gasket thickness)more head clearance. nothing else. just a way for the average broke joe to run a stroker without all the work. moving all ports up is strictly a byproduct of this. on a side note- the plate is only about $30, not 100..... anyways, with the increased stroke, the problem with porting is more than just blockage, but a short-circuited blow-down, to say the least. well, i'm about to be late for work....gotta go

yah, best to send them to a sponsor and know you are going to get a really nice job. i also favor wildcard, but look around for the one you feel comfortable with. 90% of local atv shops don't really know how to port a 2 stroke correctly, or banshee for that matter, and those that do are only about 10% chance you are gonna get a decent running port, not just a templet jobber, or exhaust hogging. coolheads are nice, but only because of the domes you can run (basically better shape and more options for differnt compression ratios) and bling factor. they just look "cool", but don't really provide much more cooling than stock.

well, if you are willing to spend 1200, that will get you into a really bad ass runnin 4mill, actually. now, if it's 1200 total build, then do as mentioned and port for stock stroke, get some timing, compression, maybe carbs, and move on to suspension, and anything you want to do with the gear train to complement your riding.

x2....if money is a little tight, just cet the rechamber from mull, and it will run really good. but, being able to run domes can allow you to squeeze some more out of custom cut chambers, since there os more meat to work with in dome blanks, than a stock chamber. don't listen to that guy, you don't need to run blaster pistons unless you are set on going big bore anyways, which i recommend a re-sleeve. the plate is the cheap way to just get a 4mill running, but sacrifices a lot of power through port timing, and i mean all ports, not just exhaust. in fact, the transfers are an extrememly critical issue to adress when talking about stroker porting. if you bolt a plate on, it will run as a top-end oriented, but short-circuit (or choked and mis-fed) setup. if you leave stock porting and just run the recessed chambers, it will be more mid-low oriented, really lacking in top-end range. the true potential of a 4mill can only be anywhere close to released with porting. otherwise, you can get walked all over by stock stroke, but ported bikes.

same thing here.......x3 on traction.... he'd be right next to me every time , while i was spinnin and floatin. worked really hard at hookin last time, and, even spinning through 4th, i left him 100' back before hitting 5th.....oh, and my chain waqs even all kinked and cewed up with a failed amp link roller and melting lower roller. when i stopped, i just couldn't find where the burning was coming from untill later, lol.

dude, you are retarded. i don't even know where to begin, but just about 80%+ of what you said is dead wrong... maybe i'll scool you when i wake up some. i've just been so overloaded with bullshit that i need to take a crap and clean up in the shower..peace

yah, just cut the one wire on the harness side of the plug, not the cdi. in case you want to sell the cdi later. i left enough wire to re-attach on mine

the stock shit-coil head pipes make almost 2 full turns. if the lid is of, and it has a k&n, it's gonna need a couple size main bump there, and the fmf silencers are gonna need to be richened in the full range. probably just airscrews and stock pilot, but main should be bumped. if the pipes are not stock, then that can put you up in the 270-310 range. stop focusing on the tors removal as being "the" problem. it's just not great, but should not do any harm like that. (box unplugged, of course) imho, either, you have a stuck/mis-adjusted float, or sounds more like a bad crank seal

did you do anything to the p-brake circuit while you were in there? engage the p-brake limiter for shitz and giggles and see if it makes a difference. if it doesn't, clip the green/yellow wire by the cdi plug and try it. after that, clean the carbs out real good, and remove everything that you can and make sure no jets or orifaces are blocked, and the float's are set and working right.

yah, wow. fatties should not need to be jetted that high, really. check your silencers/packing, float height, and then go do a plug chop (proper) rule of thumb is 2 sizes differnce between summer and winter, unless you live in a snow area, then it changes more.

the one in his ad, not the one on his bike...

sounds like classic jetting problem. start with cleaning out the carbs real good, and servicing the filter. new plugs, too. did you change something lately?

yah, don't fuck around trying to scab it closed.....new tank. cheap and reliable.

you mean the one i bought over 2 weeks ago?

all i can say with mine is that 3-0 is too lean on top without pj's, but maybe not on 36's. wildcard or redline should be able to get you set up with what needles you need.

i would start by cleaning the carbs, basically because it's never been done. check the fuel cap to see if it's plugged, or a gravity ball stuck. see if the filter screen in the tank is plugged. what did the plugs look like when you pulled them?