AKheathen

if you are even thinking about doing it to save money, don't. it will cost you upwards of $600 to get properly set up, 100 hours of reading and research to get started and a few sets of practice cylinders. look in repairs and mods under the stickie "useful links" for your primary literature. you use a degree wheel to get your timing durations. you need a 90-100 degree 1/8" tool to get into the transfers. 10krpm and/or cheapo 1/4" die grinder with a 1/8" collet will not do it. you can get away with a 1/8" strait for $40-$80 for the rest. shaping is a major part of porting, too. if you peruse the repairs section, there has been a tremendous amount of info posted this year alone. it even helps to study a used set of ported cylinders, too, even if they have exceeded usable bore.

loosing the backpressure from the silencer will lean it out. i bet it pops to hell

um...those are different heat range plugs........you need to be running the same 8's for all chops, or it will throw your readings off.

if they are not rotted out, buy them, try them, and then decide. i have an old original gold series set laying around that pull really nicely, but they are sitting around because i love the pro-circuits. get some fine steel wool, rub the rust right off the pc's and hand polish them. it really works.

it works fine, and no real difference at all in performance. i think it just sounds a little softer

i'm running a stocker in the woods, and just about destroyed it. it barely makes the hillclimbs that you need real balls to attempt with it being too short. it will be either +2, +3, or mabey +4 with the 4mill. i like to make it to the top with the nose in front of me...

i would start with mantenance. unfourtunately, that is the problem 90% of the time. did you tune it with a hot engine, or cold? when it's cold, it's supposed to run like poo and bog, etc....and you need to use the choke when properly tuned.

yah, i like to just use brake kleen and smear the thin film over it, instead of a bead, then you can just crank her down and not worry about excess squishing out and getting inside, or wait for it to set.

you can bore them to 27.5mm, and even taper bore them for more flow. the slides stay the same.

well, i'm sure it was definately detonation that occured. it could be the heat, jetting, or compression that caused it. you can go as high as 66.5mm on the bore. check you the site sponsors for reliable work....

well, if you want, grab your shifter and push it in-out to see how much play/wear is in the case where the end of the shift shaft sits against it. if there is a good amount of end play, like 1/16"+, then you can ditch the gasket and run some rtv sealant/gasket maker. a thin film will do. that's what i did with mine and had great results. the blue stuff is best, imho. I've tried different kinds, and it seems to hold where others wouldn't. it never really hardens. it's pretty simple to take the cover off. remove the kicker, rear brake lever, and peg/nerf mount. then, the #3 Phillips screws. you will likely strip it using a #2, and an impact driver, or valve laping compound will help to pop them loose. the pump will stay attached to the cover. just remove the clip on the inside, then gear/washer, and slide the keeper pin out the side. it's usually a real good idea to replace the pump bearing and seal at the same time. the cover can hang up on the water pipe o-ring during removal/install.

uh-oh buddy....you need to at least get those port heights to proper, or at least close durrations, measured in degrees of rotation. masically, get a timing wheel, find an accurate top dead center, and measure when they open, and for how many degrees, then correct them. now, as a short-cut, you can probably take close to 1.5-2mm from the top of the exhaust, and be kind of close to corrected on timing, but it will be a more mid-range oriented motor. i'm guessing you are more of a duner? what pipes are you running? 2 stroke porting is verry different than 4 stroke. they really don't need to be, or benifit from being hogged out. you can actually loose a lot of power, because the airspeed slows down. before you touch the transfers on the 2nd set, get your plan and measurements worked out. "plan your work, and work your plan" we are here to help you out.

i thought that was hair to find the hole, 'eh drew?

if it's every few kicks, then that means that the cdi is not being fed enough current from the stator. go ahead and set the pickup gap with a spark plug box flap on both nodes on the flywheel. how did you go about removing the flywheel, and could it have been dropped or damaged otherwise? ohm out the stator and pickup, and if you cannot find anything, check the flywheel magnets on the inside with a screwdriver. it should grab the screwdriver in 12 evenly spaced places inside, but not really much magnetic force on the outside of the flywheel. if that checks out, then it's likely the stator was damaged during handling/r&r

good idea.....works just like a rubber bar snake that they have been using for decades on road bikes. the foam won't do shit for vibes. it needs to be high density and "jiggly" to absorb. that being said, i eliminated my vibration completely by running even compression, consistant spark, and synced carbs.......no need for anti-vibe here. we shall see when i get the 4mill done....

looks decent. i would still spend some quality time cleaning up the transfers and detailing all the openings. make sure they all have a nice chamfer to them, and are symmetrical, too.

go to www.photobucket.com and create an account to upload your pictures. then, it will give you links you can use to post here. "img code" is what you want to make it show up, but any of the links under the picture will work for us to get to the pic.

actually, quite the opposite. if you increase the timing and compression too far, then pump gas will detonate. basically, octane rating is your detonation resistance. the higher the rating, the more resistance. adversely, the higher the rating, the harder it is to ignite. so, basically, if you don't have enough compression, higher octane will make less power and start/run worse.

fill the radiator to the very top and re-do the leak-down. after about 10 min, pull the cap. if coolant comes out, then you have a leak there. if you don't have a leak at the dome, then i'd look at the carbs and fuel. old premix could have separated in the bottom of the tank, and one carb could get mostly oil, making it lean, or could be plugged jet, etc....

fyi- that's not the real pic guys......just a gag i stuck in there....

nope, anything you find could possibly make it worse, or just make it delay untill you least expect it and give you a nice air leak. fix the leak before running it more.

like i mentioned in the thread i linked, 90% of the time the problem can be found and repaired just under the shift cover, unless there is an acute incident with shifting or hard abuse that caused it.

idk...i wouldn't really use anything, except mabey a thin film of 0wt oil, like wd-40, or something. the flywheel needs to stick for it to work, and i don't really know what affect the loctite will have on the seat. i've actually installed taper seats that had shipping oil, or engine oil on out on the road without issues

haha, it does take a little bit of time, patience and energy sometimes, lol.........good to see you back on mike.