AKheathen

mine still has blaster arms, but it was built before there was really a market for blaster mods. so, i think all 3 shocks and some other stuff in the rear, frame extension style front bumper, alumilite bars, SAanswer silencer, and some other stuff i don't remember. pretty much rode it that way for over 10 years, and set my heart on a banshee when i needed something more. i did hop on someone elses about 3-4 years back that was supposed to be "power jetted" by the dealership, and i was really not impressed. i really had to clutch the piss out of it, and abuse it otherwise to "spank" some fun out of it.

oh, yikes, i shift to 6th a little past 65, and gave the bike to my bro when i got beat by a 500 in a short run, and couldn't keep the front wheels down enough (got tired of kissing the front bumper everytime i tried to hillclimb, and landing on my ass every time i climbed up out of a tight spot) tell me you had him by a long shot up till 65 :biggrin:

holly geez, i was eating dinner in the middle of my post, an went from post 4-9. anyways, i can't agree on the top end, cus mine would do about 80 with no problem.

ok, that bike has a pretty predominant torque setup already, but you can start with porting the stock cage, put some boysen prostock pedals on. that stoch pipe will hang out on both the top and bottom end if you change out the stock silencer for something better. you can bolt some yfz suspension parts strait on, i don't remember exactly what, because it's been several years, but i would first concentrate on getting that rear swinger to squat far down as you can when you take off, while keeping it high normally, or you will end up on your ass more than you can use the power in tight spaces (my back is still messed up) put some 22's on the back. set up your handle bars so you can almost kiss the front bumper, because you will need it occasionally. proper jetting is a must. i have rode mine in verry tight trails, up hill climbing, beach racing, high speed dirt road (up hill with switchbacks) if you start going too aggresive with the mods, you will loose alot of low end, and trail abilities, being left with something similar to a stock banshee when it's maxxed out, but you already have a banhee, and that would defeat the purpose. it's a fun little bike that you can really throw around, and will get you out of so many spots, that you'll forget it's 2wd. one thing i was gonna try out, is installing a 250cc resonator to the intake boot to clean up the low end, but will have to rejet :shrug:

ok, i voted chart 1 as pro-circuts and mikuni carbs because of the appearant flow:power correlation that i might expect from a lower velocity setup i chose chart 2 as the dynoport and pwk because of the smoother climb from low to mid, and good holding from lower mid to high with the drop-off a little sooner. ichose chart 3 as the pwk and pro-circuts because of the choppy low end, but they really begin to work together between 6500 and 7000, holding strong and steady on the torque, with the hp steadily climbing like it shoud and holding a bit longer at the top. i think the higher velocity carb helps push the pipe on the low end, and the pipe begins to match restriction of the 35 on the top, preventing the peaky overrev. what i would like to see is the dynoport and dual mikuni's, as wellas some partial throttle curves, where power jups and dropps really show their ugly face

ok, this is confusing, first you had no spark on the right, then you got it to start working, if i'm reading right for the 4th time. now what do you mean plugged the carb and run great? you put your hand over the carb, and it started to run better? clean and sync them again, but be real thurough in the tiny pasages andchech float height p.s. sorry motor builder, i was mixed up

first q- no, you unscrew them from the wire and measure between the wire side, and plug side. the coil- test between the terminals for primary, and from one wire to the other for secondary. the harness- yah, that's right, but also, witheverything unpluged, aheck between wires that should not have contact.

yellow=headlight; yellow/black=tors-don't need i would pull that tape off and inspect the wires. then, replace it with some better tape and loom

also, are you running good outerwears?

the tors wires act in on or of. nothing in between. if this were to happen, it would just cut out. check thew plug wires for chaffing, and use some tune-up grease on the caps. (silicone- dielectric grease) that is the intended purpose of the grease. check for air leaks, check the gasket around the stator cover, and run an air box, probably wont need the lid

when you touch the leads together, what does your meter read?

i would agree, but as stated, no spark at low rpms one side

yah i'm kinda torn because i almost need my low end sometimes, but lookin for something like chart 3 to stay in a gear longer, like mx. sometimes it's a while before i can even get to the shifter

so where are the regs anyways? probably still reading this novel :no:

haha i'm still researching, and thaught i might just go with the flow on a set of t5's because of availability, but htis will be a magor factor in my final decision. i'm still running stockers with toomy silencers, and i'm happy with the power balance, up till the top end where it dropps sharply. i like the power curve of a 2-1 on a snow-go, but with high clutching, i don't know what the low or top end does

ohm meter- should be 5 ohms

ok, i'm gonna say #3 has the best wide spread on even power, and a nice jump when you push it harder, but without seein the drop-off on the other 2, looks like more play time in #2 on the redline, and low end controll on #1. i'd say 1 would throw you up, but i'd have more fun with 3

what?!?! :wallbash: :: :shoothead: :shoothead: could've been an air leak, reeds, jetting, or something simple. hell, you could've payed someone to fix it.

mag rod. it's like brazing for aluminum, and twice as strong as the aluminum being repaired

sorry, but that didn't really answer any of my q's. switch your plug wires. if the problem moves to the other cylinder, then you have a bad cap or wire.

you're sayin that you're cheking the spark while the bike is running on the left cylinder right? sounds like the plug cap. didyou put new plugs in?

you spacer or bearings may be worn too much in the axle. unbolt your disc and see if the caliper slides good.

our caps should be 5 ohms, replace them even if it's probably not the problem. how bad is your wiring harness? is it just not cleanned and tucked nicely, or are there bad connections/ chaffed wires, etc. the black/ yellow wire should be completely removed from the harness- carb wires, tors box, throttle switch. check your black/white wire for continuity with ground(black)- there should be none- check where the key switch wires are; black and black/ white should not be connected to anything. red and brown should be connected together. check your black wire at the cdi plug to make sure it has no resistance between the coil ground, the case, and the kill switch black wire. check your pickup gap .016"-.020"

damn, everybody beat me to it. the plastics are better, because they won't crack your case like the aluminum ones, which kind of defeat the purpose, leaving you with a polished turd :biggrin: however, the one that rollin rhino has would work, because the clearances are so close that the chain won't bind up in the case because it's ridding in the groove, adn stil locked to the sproket untill it's pushed out of the case and clear of damage. and rihno, if you wanna buy a plastic one, maybey we can work somethin out on that billet one?

is this a new symptom, or just put together? i would check for air leak, or a bad reed. mabey plug cap or wire. u tried new plugs right?