AKheathen

dmn how you get it to start that easy? -22 right now and dew points around the lows for the nights. frost in the jugs, iced carbs, ice in kill switch, etc... i have to heat alot of stuff to get it going, even the kicker to make it catch. it'll start easy till the next day. what coolant you run?

i belive there was a post a while back and the inline cooler made a 2 degree difference on the temp going into the radiator :shoothead:

damn, i'm gonna have to run dex-cool then. 13 below right now and getting colder. i already have some slush in there, and i'm sweating it :sweat:

technically, between 3-4 inches, and 6-8 inches for a car, but to accoulnt for variables, they suggest a little more. 12-16 inches can hold a d8 doser. just stay away from channels and watch out near the shore. just a little fyi- your insurance does not cover ice unless specifically stated because technically, you purposely drove off the land and into a body of water.

actually, the tors kills the engine via the killswitch wire. it's purpose is in case a slide or cable sticks, but if you back the idle screw off too hard, or a wire gets chaffed, or probs with thumb switch it will kill motor, but you could just unplug it. (little box across from coil under gas tank) i chose to repair my tors because neither my carbs, nor cables are new, and i know how to disable it if needed. the carb tops are a little heavy, though. the parking brake has a switch that initiates a rev limiter @2300rpm designed to let you know it's on. the cable doesn't get worked enough to be reliable to release if used after a while, and the cable could get snagged locking you up, or smoking the brake/ clutch. it's just to simplify things, like pulling the fan gaurd off of a snow machine because it's a little beat up. i would go with 260's with the lid off on the main jets. that should be close, and pickup some afetmarket silencers if you can't afford pipes right now. then about 280 on the main jets welcome :thumbsup:

what's the freeze point?

i said the black/whitewire is the kill wire that is used by all circuts including key and tors. it needs to have no contact to run. the kick starter is on the clutch side, and the magneto is on the other, so are you sayin that you replacd both? ohm the stator and pickup wires

first off, never put anything on a head gasket, install dry only. adhesives may sound good, but actually work as a lubricant under high pressure where you want a friction seal. personally, i am partial to MLM type gaskets, which provide perminant rebound and compression. i have heard some on here using copper gaskets, but they occasionally remove head, and it can be reused. yamaha has a reliable one, but make sure the surfaces are square

def. sounds like air leak

what part of canda? i'm guessin that it's well below 35 degrees, so really pay attention to that part on the back of the bottle because most separate and will give issues. castor 927 sells additive for theirs because of that, but i just run torco GP-7. in the winter you can mix 40:1 or 50:1 because it will run better and the oil will stay in the engine longer. 40:1 is 16oz per 5 gallons. that's half a litre/quart. for a 10 gallon, simply pour a bottle in and fill it with gas- if you have to mix it better than that, i wouldn't trust it not to separate. i would rather have an oil that separates at high temps, than low. ps, welcome to bhq :beer:

how does it run in idle once yo get it staarted? where are your airscrews set at? i would check for an air leak and reeds/ compression especially if you're using starting fluid.

oooh that sucks dude, but there's a cover and som others for sale here pretty cheap because everyone just wants to sell stuff right after christmass

hello, so what you're sayin is all you did is replace the clutch cover gasket right? it probably is just the kill circut. push on the throttle a little when you check for spark, if it sparks, then the carb wires are disconnected somehow. you can either fix it, or unpug the 3 wire connector going to the little box under the gas tank across from the coil to eliminate the tors circut. if not, check the black wire on the coil with a meter to make sure it has good ground to the frame and engine block. also ckeck the black/white wire at the cdi for ground, if you have contact with ground, it will kill the spark. think of anything else that could've been messed with while working on it. if that doesn't help, give more info on what you find, and we can point you tward some more things

general banshee discussion :thumbsup:

ttt for kodie

bump

everything but the woods port on that setup leads to a real peaky power band, but snoopczinski recently did a real detailed analisys on the subject. i belive it was 2 28mm mikunis'. i'll bump it for ya.

as stated before, the caster 927 needs suppliment to prevent separation below 35

bump for cbarown

you would have to get the lean released. if they ever run the engine or serial numbers, you're screwed. your bud's shop would have to sell it, then satisfy the leinholder. i am assuming it's a bank, so check the local laws, a small partial payment may do

mine says 412

up here in alaska i'm running torco GP-7 because i doesn't separate, cleans really well, has stabilizers in case you have to suddenly stop ridding for a while- (ie broken bone, or frostbite) and you can go alot leaner oil mix the colder it gets. i think castor has additive to prevent cold weather separation, but i don't like to worry about it. if i drain the carbs, frost forms inside, and i have to tap, and sometimes even heat the carbs up to get the fuel flowing, so i just shut it off, but not drain. i'm sure there are other oils out there that ere just as good or better, but i'm just tellin you what i like and why. :thumbsup: btw- todays' high was -1 and dewpoint at -15, which means i have to make sure my carbs are full before it gets colder tonight

ok, for an hours' worth of work, you could pickup a comp tester and puller, but to check wiring, you'll at least need a ohm meter. test between back/whit wire and black wire to make sure that there is no contact between, and wiggle the harness when you do. this will eliminate tors problems. unplugging the tors box will disable tors completely. plenty of good blue spark....reeds good... get that compression tester, unless you can stick your finger in the hole and gauge it by feel.......j/k is it backfiring outa the intake, or pipes? can you pop the flywheel nut off and see if it spun on the shaft?

don't quote me, but i'm pretty sure you'll have to run strait race gas with 18's, but maybey 50/50 if someone else who knows for sure chimes in. i'm 90% sure on the strait race gas.

there you go- all electronics fine- it's not getting fuel