AKheathen

that happened to my skidoo and i had to pull the motor and empty a gallon out of the pipes. nno drain plug. at least my sled got a good cleaning around the engine

damn it! looks pretty sick though just blasted them and inthe final coat of headder paint. i diddn't want to prime them to keep the paint thin and bake it to the metal. leavin the stingers alone though. same pipes too :beer: is that dp48LF?

def something came loose, maybey hub or bearing, sounds like to me

i know, but everything in there is black right now

i'm not worried about it stayin clean, but which color would look better with my bike. i know i'm a little different, but that's just me. i havn't seen it before, and can just blast them in the cabnet again if i don't like it. thx

just got my pipes today ----:>thx paddleboy<:--- i'm sandblasting and painting them. i'm thinking on white, but i have yellow paint too shocks will be yellow, but grill is white. whatcha guys think?

there you go- suspension. also a coil

did you have the meter on a/c? ohm between the wires and ground. they should have a little resistace, but not much. if nothing, pull the flywheel and check if the ground is good in the middle, and if the coils are cooked. the lights have their own circut on the stator.

there is a little box under the fuel tank across from the coil. that is the tors main unit and if you unplug it, it will disable it. ohm your stator, and the plug caps. check the black wire on your coil to make sure you have good ground to the frame and engine. check the black/white wire to make sure it has no contact with the black or ground. if you bypass the keyswitch, make sure to only connect the red and brown wires together. the parking brake switch is only a rev limiter and won't kill spark. with junk in youur stator, that would be a good place to check first. :wink:

with bigger carbs the airflow is alot slower, causing the fuel not to atomize as well. this also makes it harder to controll the venturri effect. on a v8, it's alot easier to calculate max airflow and match the carb to it. 99% of people under estimate the beauty of a 2 barrel.

just lemmie know

hey bud, i thought you checked into the castor additive. anyways, it's ok to switch oils on a newer engine, just iffy on an old one that has run one type it's whole life. it's no secret by now that i really like torco gp-7, but if you got some of the fuel you'll be running, i can add some oil to it in a jar so you can stick it ouside and see how well it holds up. it's supposed to be good any temp, with all fuels :thumbsup: and i can attest how clean it keeps shit inside the engine

wha pipes r u running? pull a hill like that with a plug chop. does it feel like the clutch could be slipping?

cold air will raise comp

278 is the guy who staarted this thread. just thaught it was cool. btw, motor lookin good :thumbsup:

woa your post count is 278

sorry, i'm savin up for a cool head

payment sent

when it's flooded, the plugs will wet before they ignite, but if it,s just one side and she gets enough air, the other side could pump the other side untill it clears up, but the excess fuel will go out the exhaust. baisically, if you flood it, there will be unburnt fuel in the pipes, but should clear out after a min. i would check or replace the plugs when it's cleared up, replace the float needles, or adjust. so i'm guessin that this is 2 things that happened at once, so make sure there is a good 1/8" slack at the thumb side, and sync the carbs. make sure there is no tension on the cables when you drop the idle screws all the way down, then bring the idle up 2 turns and start from there adjusting both sides together. if it still jumps really high, then you have an air leak somewhere and the flooding just added fuel to the extra air.

while you're in there, check out your pickup gap on the flywheel, and ohm the stator

i use my lid to regulate in bug temp changes because i set it to run at 0 degrees, and the next day it'll jump up to 30 and snow, so i put the lid on and re-adjust airscrew. the lid will richen at a slope with airflow. which means it won't effect near idle much, but will be 1-2 jet sizes on the top end. just move the needle to get the midrange right, and do a plug chop to get the mains. 240 is probably a bit small for 10 degrees on a stocker with no lid. that hesitation and zingy sound is lean, and boggy is rich. with the lid off, you can really hear the intake better. it should be pretty throaty and crisp.

how about 25 shipped with vent tube? :biggrin:

welcome jason. :biggrin: first step is almost always check your plugs, and i would replace them. make sure it's getting good spark on both cylinders/ swap wires to see if the problem changes sides. when you say the tors moves, is that the whole carb, or just the top moving side to side? it shouldn't do that.

have your pistons coated and case match to your transfers. also, check out your impeller; any doubts on that, just replace it :thumbsup:

omg i hope we do. mild winters suck. the past few years i've been running up the mountain to see if the park is open yet. i'm only gonna run coolant that i know can handle the extreme cold, so ican just add some water wetter to some dexcool. ohh look! it just dropped another couple degrees