AKheathen

low compression may not directly cause backfiring, but the plugs will foul easy. also, did you buy fuel out there before it begain?

haha, see, the funny thing is, that the stator produces volt-amps, to put it in terms that you can better understand. as the amperage increases, the voltage decreases. 100watt 12v lights will pull just under 8 amps, keeping the voltage low. a 70 watt load will only pull >5amps, wich will leave the passing voltage <20. the voltage regulator simply grounds the excess v.a. unlike a car, which controlls the production of power by the power to the windings, instaed of a perminent magnet system. because of running a max load all the time, there is no excess power to absorb/ground. if you were ever to run a smaller load, it would definately be nescicary, wich will probably be the case in the near future. but, you can still ride with the 100watters, untill a new regulator shows up, and then swap the bulbs out for some lower wattage bulbs, so they can be brighter at lower rpm's

This is a great set. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...52BSI%26otn%3D4 baught those, but no 27.5, 30, or 32.5. only pilots, not needed

if those are your choices, then start with 310, the needle rich, and the airscrew 1 turn from seated. but you will probably need 300-290, and most llikely 27.5 pilot, with needle in the middle and 1.5 turns out on the airscrew.

i find that it's 100x easier to find neutral rolling. also, i had to keep tightening my shift lever. a little bit of play makes it impossible. turns out the bolt was bottoming out before it completely tightened. hold the shif a slit second longer, and blip

sounds like an airleak. what do the pistons look like?

now, that is a curious question. in theory, it should work, as long as you are pulling 100 watts. i'd get a regulator, anyways, so you can run lower watt bulbs that are brighter

probably not the oil, then. even though "35/36:1" can leave your jetting alomost right from tank to tank. start with a fresh tank of fuel, and check your reeds. then do a plug chop and go from there. s.g. is specific gravity of fuel

did you verify that the idle screws are moving the slides up and down?

like i said, you'll never get it right untill the idle screws move the slides up and all the way down. you'll be wasting jets getting the mixture right, only to find the idle won't go down, then turn around and go back the other way with jetting once you get it fixed. not sayin there's no airleak, or that the jetting is right, just that there is no need to chase your tail twice

oh, damn, i was gonna update my pick, but i think maybey i'll just use pabansheematt's pics. think he's got one in the snow? i'll have to color his pipes though...might be tough

haha, so it's blue, blue, and blew just sayin the lack of school girls attendance leaves the men bored sounds like someone with a blew banshee has a crush.... makes my squirrel nervous

i remember chat from 10 years ago... was for school girls, or talking to school girls. we havee a bunch of school girls? that must be where "shee" came from

the spacers go on the carb side of the reeds, and check for airleaks when done. there will be quite the difference where your spacers are

you can back the pickup away a little, and then bendi it back strait while it's tightened down. then try to set it again

yah, there is 2 different coils, but i've only seen reference on the one for testing, and the other when showing how it works. the one you have fires from one plug to the other, and the other fires to ground

nice and quiet.....yah. chat has issues, and everyone runs. fuckin school girls.

i went green and just started pouring the grease in my tank after cooking. also keeps me healthy- the more greasy food i eat, the more i ride- torco 40:1, smells real nice, and works excellent. i say, just pick a good oil, and stick with it. it's worse to jump between a bunch of good oils, than to stick with a shitty one. constantly mixing random chemicals is never good

did you try steel whool?

X2, stroke and lo-mid porting will keep you in the trail, and tecnical riding, when combined with the right parts

hahahahahaha. bored again? nothing like website issues to cut down on attendance

woah, if it backed out, then it's definately not useable. not even sure if welding would hold up. i would send it back, and get another. rule of thumb is, rebuild 2x, and this is why

ther u go, tire size will be a big factor in gearing, as well

reed spacers can really cut back on the topend when installed on the cylinder side, but have a minimal effect on the carbside. they are mainly to clear larger carbs that rub the clutch lever. what's your temp/elevation

don't worry, many are like that. you measure the secondary from cap to cap