holdmybeer,watchthis

89 vert. 331 stroker, 356rwhp/367rwtq

Amsoil Saber mixed 80:1

IT RUNS Pulled the carbs apart and blew everything out again. It starts and runs excelent. Now I need to free up some time to actually ride it.

I found a picture of my shee and zoomed in on the carbs and found out how the spacer was in there originally and it's as follows: Cylinder-spacer-reedcage-carb mount. I guess it was a lucky guess when I put it back together. But now it's back to the drawing board as to why it runs like crap. I'll tear it back down and go thru the carbs again. Wouldn't be the first time I had to do something all over again. It's in my blood I guess

I've been trying to do a search on this. Can someone guide me to installation instruction or something. I've read where they go between the carb and the reed and then see them between the cylinder and the reed. Where ever it was on my shee before now, it ran perfect. I wish I would have payed more attention to where it was before I tore it apart.

I'll do the carb cleaner thing and check for a air leak. The choke tube between the carbs is the only line I did not replace. I guess better do that one too just to do it right. Thanks for the input :beer:

I disassembled the petcock and cleaned it inside and out. I checked fuel flow and it flows great. Plugs are good, compression appears to be good at 135/140. I thinking I'll need to pull the carbs off again but was wondering about the fuel lines between the carbs at the split as to whether or not that need to be level.

First off, I'm glad to see this site is still running strong. I haven't visited here in a while because I never really had any issue's with the shee ,but I need some help now. It sat for over a year with untreated fuel in the tank. It fired up but ran like crap. So I pulled everything apart, carbs, reeds, tank, fuel lines and went thru everything and put it all back together and it still is running like crap. It starts with 2 kicks with the choke on. If I try to take it off choke it will die. If I keep playing with the choke it'll stay running. So that's telling me I'm lacking fuel. Before I rip it all apart again I have a couple questions. I replaced the fuel lines and was wondering how important it is to have the "T" for the fuel lines at the carbs level? Should I be running the factory formed fuel lines on the carbs?? When I pulled the reeds I did not pay much attention to where the reed spacer was prior to taking it apart. I have the spacer on the cyclinder side of the reed. Is that the correct mounting??? Can this be an issue??? Thanks Terry

Go to thedieselstop.com. Lot's of info for your ford diesel. I'm there quite a bit, and some of the little things you can do to your truck will help alot. Like getting rid of the air in the fuel lines. Makes a big differents in some trucks. Look up the site and get ready for hour's of reading. Good luck with your chip

USN 87-90 USS SEATTLE AOE-3 USNR 90-93

My first ATV was a 84 or 85 Honda Odyssey. It was the first year when they had the full roll cage and Red. Man was that thing fun. No rear suspention, just cheesy shocks in the front. $1700 bucks brand new, drove it for 4 years sold it for $800. Just try to find one now in mint shape for $800.

I've read that a few people here run ATF and would like to know of any benefits of using ATF, and if there is, what do I need to do to convert over.

If I was going to switch over to ATF in my gear case, would I need to be concerned with any left over 10w30 in the case? Do I need any specific type of ATF or can I just put anything in it such as mercon? Does ATF give you a better or smoother shift? How about finding neutral?

What about the Turf Tamers?