AKheathen

i felt i was doing pretty good around 1 gal/hr. mabey a little more gas than that, but still. i think that, if you have topend pipes, it'll use more than lowend/mid pipes, because that's what i did. switched from gold series to pcp's and had to upp the jetts 5 sizes, richer needle, and not using any more fuel.

it's spun glass. it can get gummed, but then you just change it again, like an air filter

really? let me know when and where :biggrin:

did you richen the oil for the break-in? that will lean out the fuel

is that current compression? the cutting out makes me suspect detonation. just look for pitting on the domes and pistons

you were lean on the mains. if you fiied up up there, it would be worse. the water tightened things up, and BOOM!

when i was a kid, i had a battery powered alarm for my bike.... :shrug: cheap @ wal-mart

the e-brake is part of the clutch pertch. try unplugging the wires to the clutch lever

holly fucking lean, batman. you need to re-jet for those pipes. 2-4 sizes for pipes, 1-2 for snorkel, and 2 for lid.

you may want to check the compression, then pop the top and check for detonation. what's your elevation.

hey man, i never got to thank you for the tap yet. thank you verry much. the removal was a godsend for jetting adjustments

also, if you messed up the silencers, it will run like total shit, and foul out the plug(s) in a min, or so. so, check the cores for breakage/restriction.

you prbably hit the e-brake. disconnect the green/yellow wire. it's not a 2 stoke thing. you are fouling plugs from over-oiling the filter, which will richen you up alot, due to restriction. if bot things happened to his bike, he'd be in the same boat, so tell him to stieffel, and laugh at his confused look :biggrin: it's not good to let the extra oil run through the engine, so next time, blot/wick the excess oil out with paper towels. and just spray enough oil to color the white spots when you oil it.

imo, if you are needing a rebuild after 45 hrs, then you need to look at your oil and filter. when you have the head off, you'll be able to check out your cylinders and excessive piston clearance/rock.

well, first off, WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS? what pipes do you have? 330+ is not that far of a stretch with porting. hell, i'm stock ported, boysens, pcp's, 20cc's, billet k&n adapter w/o lid, and 330 is lean @ 70* you should get an accurate reading with klots and 93, as long as you are doing it long enough (10 sec. wot, ideally) p.s. 33-34mm carbs are WAY different jetting than 26's if you are doing the plug chops right, keep going up :thumbsup:

well then, the pipes was an important piece of info that you witheald. you are already on your way to a midrange setup, so stick with the pc's perhaps a boysen rage cage, open your lid up for better flow, and go +4 on the timing. your silencers will dry out if the packing gets wet. just run-em i have the pcp's as well, and i don't wanna go back to a topend pipe as the perform awesome in the trails/woods. decide what you are gonna do, and then we can give you an aproximate getting to tune off of.

it should be between 260-280, depending on the lid vents, with stock porting. if it pulls 6th, then you are probably fine, and do a plug chop. if it sputters @ or near wot, then go down on the mains.

well, there you go. check for wire breaks, and test where the wires connect strait to the stator.

e-brake switch?

throw the new plugs in. if it gets better, re-jet. remember, adjustments are for a warm engine. other than that, check reeds and compression.

oh, take the reedings from the cdi plug. red and green @13.7-20.5 on the stator, and red/white and green/white is the pickup @ about 100 ohms. :geek:

adjusting the suspension will help it handle better. i have my bars back a little, too.

x2 are you running a lid? snorkel? how gapped are the reeds? check the pickup gap. replace the plugs, and plug caps. but first, do a compression test.

hahahahaha, 'bout the same, here. :beer:

....still wondering about the rims and yellow plastics [email protected]