firebanshee

If you had a 14mil dm you would have to run atf type f so the clutch wouldn't slip with that much power

When i have been out camping and melted down my motor i have removed the cylinders and filled my case up with gasoline and turned the bike over and rinsed out the cases, i did this several times until it came out clean and put it back together to finish out the trip. This has worked for me more than once when i was in a jam. If you are not that high in elevation 19cc domes warrent race fuel.

You could try pulling your choke out and try it and see if that changes anything,if it makes it better than it is lean,if it makes it worse than it is rich. If fuel is not the issue than it could be your spark plug caps, they have resistors inside of them that fail and then your bike will run like ass when you are in the power band. You screw the old ones off and replace them with NGK ones.

I would set the timing at +4 unless you want more for a specific reason, +4 seems to be the sweet spot for pump gas.

Should be close

A 4mil cub is VERY reliable.

Around 160 psi and you should be safe for pump gas.

My cub pumped 180 at sea level with a 21cc dome

Redline.

I would NOT use a pro design cool head, you have to change out your head studs to use these and there are alot of good heads out there that you do not need to do this. You can break one of the studs off, or the threads can come out of the cylinder then you need heli coils. And i don't like the coolant flow in the pro design cool head, it allows the coolant to just shoot over the top of the domes instead of making the coolant go down into the cylinders to cool them.

That sounds like it would be alot of fun, how much boost?

40:1

Yea you are missing something, you probably have a broken drive gear to the impeller. It is the little white plastic gear underneath the clutch cover. When you pull of your clutch cover it is attached to the impeller shaft. i

ATF has friction modifiers in it to help the clutches grab. Type F and B&M trick shift are the most aggressive types of atf. I am painfully aware how an automatic trans works, i have been working on them and overhauling them for over 20 years.

I have metal tech swing arm (round house ) and a arms, i think they are great, NO regrets.

2 carbs are better than one carb for ANY kind of riding. my 2cents

Stick it in and wipe it off on the curtains

Did you ever have a problem rattling your spark plugs loose?

Since i am such a dumb ass and got the motor size wrong , does this little bit bigger motor warrant a stronger second gear?

I think i made a SLIGHT miscalcuation(OOPS) the crank is a 10mil and the bore is a 74.5, what size will this make the motor? (558)?

yamaha

The only thing i have ever used a reed spacer for it to get my float bowl of my clutch arm. I don't think you get any performance gain from them.

I took it off with a die grinder and a sanding wheel. A dremel would work. I have not had any problem since i did it, i am glad i did it. I have not seen an advantage to have the raised part but if there is i am sure someone will chime in.

Sorry no pic. It is easy to do though.If you look at the front of your bike with your plastics on you can see that gap around your rad, the air goes right through there and out the side vents on your tank cover.Fill in that gap and your good.

I am confused the last time i overhauled and automatic transmission i seen alot of gears in them. A motor oil is not meant for wet clutches, and the last time i overhauled a car engine i didn't see many gears in there just timing gears with a chain. ATF is however designed for wet clutches since there are on the average 4 clutch packs in an automatic and 3 sets of planetary gears.