Thewhite

Are you using the banshee or teh RZ stator ?

I just beat blast my case and the clutch cover yesturday and the result is very impressive I recommend taht to every one. The beat blast is a sandblast with some very small glass ball, never use traditionnal sandblast on aluminium.

Mesure your squish clearance and keep .035 to .040'' to be safe. Then you will mill the head about from .020 to .030''

Keep me posted of the story, I have my RZ cylinder at Passion Racing and my Zeeltronic box in shipping. thanks

thanks guys, I will try the wax in the week-end. When I heated the stud last weekend, I begun slowly with the heat and the stud was rock solid in the case. So I heat it again and at the third time the stud bent just a little bit. My last tried was to heat the stud and colling it with ice in a towel by the othe end. That havent work too. thanks

I sent my RZ350 barrrels to Jim last week for his 12 port design, at this time of the year the leadtime is around 5 weeks for cylinder porting. I suggest to call him before to take any decision (don't use the email he always prefer a phone call). When I call him two weeks ago to have some info on his type of porting, I was very impressed. He will built your engine for exactly whats your prefered riding style and he will also design you your dome (the stock dome design aren't the best for all applications). The piston kit is very cheap and it come with all the required gasket and cool head oring. My RZ350 cylinders have power valve, he will built me a trail-dune bike with a very good top end and a very strong bottom. You don't buy an already designed porting job, he will design the porting by your riding style. I sent my cylinder to Jim in Oklaoma from Montreal (Canada): you won't be disapointed of his work and knowledge !!

Im wondering if someone have ever change a cylinder stud (to mount the cylinder on the case). One of the thread is dammage and Im not able to remove the stud. I tried to heat the stud with a torch but the stud bent. Any help will help ... can I place the case in the oven at 325 deg F and them try to remove the stud !!

glue them with epoxy

Do you have a picture of the sensor installation ? The head water outlet pass between the two reed valve and you got enought space or you install it after the water pump ?

newer is better ... the banshee 87 have a J arm style, the 89 have the A arm type. The engine remain the same except the electric wiring. hope it can help

Did you get some water or sand accumulation in the air box. Correct me if I'm wrong, but this air box have no drain. Please kept me update, I also interest to that box.

First my intent was to send the case to F.A.S.T. and buy some stuff for my clutch and tranny. Then I decide (in one month or two) to port my rz cylinder by passion racing: they do good porting with the rz barrel. I want to wait to install my rz barrel because I don't have received my zeeltronic CDI and power valve controller. For now I will use my old an already port banshee cylinder. Do you think it will be better to wait for my case porting and to ship the cylinder and the case together to Passion Racing or port the case right away with F.A.S.T.

I have some non ported RZ350 cylinder with the powe valve. I need to change my crank due to a failed bearing and I want to squeeze every possible HP. The cylinder will be port in a month or two, is it better to port the cyclinder and the case by the same engine builder ? My plan was to send the case to Jeff @ F.A.S.T. for their full case porting and the cylinder to Jim @ Passion Racing for the 12 port design. thanks

I'm interest to port my crank case and I'm looking for the best place to do it. Some builder just port the upper case, I heard that some other add epoxy and port both casing. Can someone can explain me what they port on the lower part of the case and the best place to do it. I can find a local shop near montreal, Canada but I'm affraid that someone in the USA can do a better job. thanks

I have some pwk 28 with a oval over bore: 28mm with and 30mm tall, I use a 50 pilot, 258 main and N68A needle. Originally I got the JJH and the bike was rich at 3/8 throttle, so I chanhe for some N68A and it help to solve the problem. The Needle end is basicly the same but the beginning have a second taper. It help to have a better transition of the needle opening. I the first taper is 3 deg and the second is 1 deg (the same as the JJH). See the attachement. The N68x serie needle is more populaire in europe on the high modified scooter, I got those number from hte net: d1 d2 d3 d4 d5 L1 L2 L3 L4 θ1 θ2 N68A 2.435 2.409 2.391 2.253 1.625 27.45 28.5 31.39 43.39 1`00`` 3`00`` N68B 2.385 - - 2.253 1.625 - - 29.14 41.14 1`00`` 3`00`` N68C 2.395 - 2.391 2.253 1.625 - 26.25 29.14 41.14 1`00`` 3`00`` N68D 2.405 - 2.391 2.253 1.625 - 26.25 29.14 41.14 1`00`` 3`00`` N68E 2.415 2.409 2.391 2.253 1.625 25.2 26.25 29.14 41.14 1`00`` 3`00`` N68F 2.425 2.409 2.391 2.253 1.625 25.2 26.25 29.14 41.14 1`00`` 3`00`` N68G 2.435 2.409 2.391 2.253 1.625 25.2 26.25 29.14 41.14 1`00`` 3`00`` N68A 2.435 2.409 2.391 2.253 1.625 27.45 28.5 31.39 43.39 1`00`` 3`00`` N68H 2.445 2.409 2.391 2.253 1.625 25.2 26.25 29.14 41.14 1`00`` 3`00`` N68I 2.455 2.409 2.391 2.253 1.625 25.2 26.25 29.14 41.14 1`00`` 3`00`` N68J 2.465 2.409 2.391 2.253 1.625 25.2 26.25 29.14 41.14 1`00`` 3`00``

I wondring what you do guys to hook the upper pipe spring to the cylinder. My original intent was to use two Toomey flanges made for the blaster, but I still don't know how I will hook the spring. The original shee cylinder have a place to hook the spring, but the RZ have a flange design (instead of a spigot) with no place to hook the spring.

go to a previous post call RZ diff, some day ago I made a complete list of the difference and some recommend mod on that.

Hi, I'm rebuilding an RZ engine for my shee and I wondring what you do guys to hook the upper pipe spring to the cylinder. The original shee cylinder have a place to hook the spring, but the RZ have a flange design (instead of a spigot) with no place to hook the spring. Are you using a special flange with a place to hook the end of the spring or ... My original intent was to use two Toomey flanges made for the blaster, but I still don't know how I will hook the spring.

The shift fork are not the same: the banshee fork are guide pin a pin on the shift drum, the RZ fork are guide by a Roller to the shfit drum. The shift drum differe a little bit: the side chamfer of the groove is larger on the RZ. I just rebuilt a RZ350 tranny for my banshee, you only need to swap the tranny shaft and gear with those of your shee. In the way, I suggest to add the second bearing on the end of the shift drum (WCR made it for 30$), add a mod shift star and mod shift shaft (you can also add the easy shift with the bearing). You can find three type of cylinder in north america: 48H: US cylinder 55hp 31K: canadian cylinder 83-85 59 hp 1UA: canadian cylinder 86-90 63 hp For the rectifier, you can use one of a YFZ-450. It's newer and cheaper on ebay For the servo, you can use one from a YZF-1000 or 600 on ebay (newer and cheaper) For the CDI, power valve controller, you can use a Zeeltronic, is cheaper, newer and a way better. You can also program your own timing curve with the power-valve opening, you just need to rewire all for the CDI unit. I suggest to use their battery eliminator to not install a battery. Last thing you need to built some spigot for the cylinder flange to your pipe (some pipe need a dent on the cable side). I got all my part except the Zeeltronic CDI, I hope my bike will run for the end of the summer ...

Have you ever tried to remove the front breather of your case cover or have you encourted some oil splitting problem with that mod ? The RZ350 street bike engine have only a breather in the back of the tranny and I never heard any problem about that, on the RZ the front hole is use for the oil pump shaft. The case cove is basictly the same for the banshee and the RZ, for my point of view Yamaha have just add the front breather to block the hole and to not modify the old casting. I ask the question because I'm now rebuilding at RZ350 engine with the power valve for my shee and I was interested to weld the front breather hole and removing the front tubing. thanks

I'm wondering if someone know how to remove the clutch actuator needle bearing, the bearing that hold the clutch level arm (attached to the cable on the case). I'm in the way to rebuilt my engine case and I tried to remove the bearing with a rod and a hammer and then the needle baering failed in part. Now the outside needle bearing sleeve is stock in the case and I don't know how to remove it. any help will help

Their internet site is offline for now, they have another mail: whitakerracing06@aol.com

I'm wondering if someone have some difficulty to contact WCR, all my mail bounce back and they do not respond their phone call since two day. I'm not sure if they have a fax number. thanks

The best set-up that I find is the pro shift kit, the mod'd shift star, the mod'd shift shaft from FAST with whit the STOCK spring. Your next thing do is to found the RZ350 shift drum with the forks, I bought all my parts but no yet install.

I'm wondering if someone who have install a RZ 350 engine with the power valve in a banshee can tell me if the swap worth the effort and the money invest. I'm not intetrest for a cub because I'm looking to keep a good low end torque for the trail riding. I can have the complete RZ engine with the CDI for 700$ . Now I already have a trail-dune trail engine, T5 pipe, 20cc coolhead, Vforce, 30mm carbs, prodesign intake and 4 deg timing. But I just blow a cylinder with a phestone leak from the coolhead. A wrong installation from myself ... The canadian RZ engine produce 63 hp at 10,000 rpm !!! thanks