Thewhite

a while ago I got the same issue: I was too rich and my exhaust oring was dammage

I'm thinking to rebuilt my engine with some RZ cylinder and I'm wondering if someone have try to mount a set of T5 on some RZ cylinder with the required spigot ? I heard that you need to make a dent in the left pipe to clear the cable casing for a lot of pipe, but I'm not sure for the T5. thanks

I'm thinking to rebuilt my engine with some RZ cylinder and I'm wondering if someone have try to mount a set of T5 on some RZ cylinder with the required spigot ? I heard that you need to make a dent in the left pipe to clear the cable casing for a lot of pipe, but I'm not sure for the T5. thanks

they have no o-ring and I can see the small hole for the pins thanks

it's a vito 4mil stock rod

I can get a stroker crank very cheap from a friend but the locating pins are missing. I'm wondering if the locating pins can be r

I'm intetest to change my top end for a RZ with the power valve. Do you know if the sawp is worthwhile with all the money that I will need to involve. What kind of power the swap will do with that set-up: T-5, cool-head for RZ, V-force, Pro-Design intake with timing plate and pwk 30 carb. Do you know if the low end RPM will be improove or only the high rpm will be improove My type of riding is 40% trail, 40% sand and 20% drag racing. In the futur I will also interest to stroke it 4 mil. thanks in advance

the pwk 30 have a better flow, the height of the outlet is 30 but the width is still 28. It make an average diameter of 29 mm. The main advantage is you keep a good response of the throttle and you maximize the flow at full throttle.

Have you sold your 4 mil crank

I ran all summer long with 94 octane, 20cc dome and +4 timing just over the sea elevation (Montreal area, Canada) and my top end was like a brand new with 158-160 psi For the winter, I run 91 octane, 21cc dome and +4 timing (the 94 octane is hard to find)

I also mod the lower shock mount to accept the YFZ 450 longer shock

last year I got some 30 mm carb with a pair of JJK needle, those needle run fine except they are a little bit rich when the tapper begin. Then I bought a pair of N68A, those needle are a twin taper model: they begin by 1 deg and follow with 3 deg of tapper. I recommend the N68A the dual tapper are very smooth and I have no more rich condition at the beginning of the tapper.

thumb is for ladies ... lol I ride a twist throttle since 6 years with no problem, the only thing: be very cautious on your 3 first ride. You can hit the gaz at the landing of a jumb, during a wheely or when you make a short turn. It can be scary on the first ride but it' so amasing to twist the throttle when you drag.

I removed the rear cap of the silencer and I cut the pipe with the second diffuser. I also planning to fril the center of the first diffuser.

In Qu

Personally I have no problem to run a set of 20cc dome with +4 deg of timing with 94 octane pump gas. My compression go up to 158-160 psi with a rush of crank stroke (like 15 to 20 stroke). My elevation is 0-500' (I ride normally at 100' of elev) near Montreal, Qu

The N68A needle is a dual taper needle. It bein by 1 deg and end with a 3 deg taper

The N68A needle is a dual taper needle ... is the best one you can run. I begun by a set of JJK and change to the N68A. The N68A begin by a taper of 1 deg and with a 3 deg for the seconf taper instead of approx 3 deg all the way for the JJK