Thewhite

I only see this: Posted Yesterday, 10:29 PM This should help you out thanks

have you forgot to add the link?

Can some know the primary gear back lash number: the gear set are tag with a number on the side and I just realize that. The problem is I have mixed 3 crank gear in the same box and now I want to rebuilt my engine. But now I don't know how to match the gear number and the clymer don't give more info. thanks

I have a set of used RZ350 fork in hand that came from a low millage engine and the pin is really a roller type. The fork is too small to add a bearing, I presume is an internal bushing that make the roller. For the bearing on the stator side of the drum, WCR can install you a roller bearing for something like 30 buck ...

I discuss with him 3-4 week ago, but no response since 2 weeks... From my point of view: he did an amazing porting job on my RZ350 cylinder. His porting is very good, but the guy is always hard to reach.

What is the best way to trace and trim the base gasket to make it flush with the casing. My RZ350 cylinder and the case are now port and the gasket will restrict the flow a little bit on the transfert. I'm looking for any advise that can help me to not pass thru and removing to much gasket. My base gasket is made of .020'' sheet metal and it have a rubber finish. thanks

I'm replacing my reeds on VForce 2 and I would like to bond the outter reed screw. I saw on previous thread that some of you use loctite. I know loctite can dammage some plastic ... as loctite said on their web site. I discussed with the sevice tech of moto tassinari (VForce manufacturer) and the guy recommend to use yamabond or threebond 1104. From my point of view; the red locite (262) is not an option. It will be to hard ton unmount later, so the loctite blue (242) can be considered. The second option is the threebond 1104. Both are fuel and oil resistant. What product do you recommend me. thanks

Somebody have a caliper and a cylinder ?

only 30$ for bearing, machinning and labor ... just add the shipping. WCR (whitaker custom racing)is in Florida and he building alot of dunable tranny. Check on google for the complete name and you will find it, he done mine and very well done. The RZ350 fork are not the same, your dealer haven't check the part number. Find a par number finder on the net and check for a 1984 RZ350. I suggest you to go to another dealer. The RZ and the banshee shift drum are very similar: all the same except a bigger angle (chanfer) on the side of the groove. Not sure if the groove differ (I already sold my off stuff). Can you make me a favor: can you mesure the exhaust oulet outisde diameter of the cylinder, where the pipe fit (with a caliper if possible).

Don't spend 150$ on that drum: WCR will be able to install a bearing for only 30$!! I also suggest to spend the remaining money on a set on RZ350 shift fork and shift drum, the pin on the fork are a roller instead of a pin. I haven't reassemble the engine yet, but got all my parts including the modded shift shaft, the new bilet shift star from MullenEng.

Can someone give me the outside diameter of the exhaust of the stock cylinder (where the pipe fit on the cylinder). I'm bulding an RZshee and I will need this diameter to fabricate my exhaust spigot. A precise diameter from a caliper will be appreciated. thanks

Or is that possible to port those intake to make the outlet a little bit more square ? The BOSS intake was very interesting: they come with the square outlet and the internal cross over, but I heart too much bad story about leaking intake ... Is it worth the time and the effort to properly seal the BOSS intake with RTV silicon if considering the advantage of matching the square shape of the intake and the VForce2 ?

Who is making the best intake set-up for the V-Force 2 reed valve, with internal cross over (if possible) ? I have looked the Charriot performance and the billet intake form FAST and they have a round end, to match the VForce 3 ... I would prefer a square end to match the VForce 2.

I splitted my case du to a failed crank, then I inspected all the tranny part and I found a seized gear. I'm wondering if someone can expain me why my second gear of the rear shaft(sproket shaft) begin to seize on the tranny shaft. I can turn it by hand, but is very difficult. I probably will need to replace that gear, all the other gear look good and turn freely. I always run the klotz FLEX DRIVE 30 oil (2 stroke tranny oil) and it was never short on the oil level. thanks

thanks for the clarification, I might be considering the Kevin tranny mod and keep using my clutch ...

I'm now getting a price for a Dunable1-4 manual 5-6, by the info I got you can gently backload a dunable under 8000 rpm. Is that true and is it the only inconvenient of a dunable tranny ? I know kevin form HJR can offer to modify your dogs to facilliate the enfagement of the gear (half are removed and the dogs slider are angled), have you any info on that mod ?

Will buy one as soon they are available.

I'm looking for a Override Dunable tranny 1-4, Manual 5-6 and I'm looking for the best design on the market. I want to kept all my six gear for the tigh trail and the high speed asphalt road. WCR done it for 320$, HJR for max. 400$ and FAST for 380$. The advantage of HJR: on the fifth and sixth gear, he can remove the half of the dogs and the sliders are angled to help the engagement, WCR don't have that option. WCR only offer a full undercut to lock the dogs together for the High HP engines (I only will do 70-75), I don't need that option (175$). I heard that WCR do the best override dunable on the market, is that true. And is it preferable to do the Dunable 1-4, M5-6 at WCR and ship the parts to HJR for the fifth and sixth gear dogs and slider modification. I also want to confirm that I can not use a modded shift shaft, but a modded shift star is ok. thanks

have you more info on the seach on ebay to find the leak down tester from R&B porting, I haven't found it. thanks

I looked your dyno result for a 4 mil with 73 hp on Rocket pipe. I never saw that pipe, what kind is it (power vs RPM) and what kind of porting Passion did on your juggs ? The stock canadian RZ350 make 60 hp with two stock 26 mm Mikuni carb !!! I was sure by installing my PWK 28 (oval bore 28x30), V-Force 2, RZ juggs ported by Passion, case ported, boost ported piston with a good timing curve and power valve opening it will make 10 hp over for a total of over 70 hp ... Do you recommend me some PWK 33 carbs for that ? I like people who challenge me, for my info: what power to do guess with that current set-up ? thanks

My RZ350 cylinder will have low to mid seventy hp with a ton of low torque ! set-up will be: RZ350 cylinder, 12 port by Passion Racing RZ cool-head with domes by Passion Racing Boost port piston by Passion Racing Ported case by FAST Toomey T5 pipes VForce 2 with new reeds Prodesign intake Carb PWK 28 oval bore 28wx30h Programmable CDI with power valve opening by Zeeltronic Regular stroke crank K&N air filter My Banshe is down since winter du to a failed crank, I expect to make it run for September or so ...

Thanks guys for the candle or wax trick. The stud go out so easily and even the local shop was not sure if they will be able to do it without breaking the stud ... always good stuff here ... Anyway, I have already sent my space case to Jeff for a full case porting.

I'm wondering if someone have a B1 pipe from toomey for the blaster ? I want to use the spigot flange on my RZ cylinder and I want to confirm their dimensions. I also wondering if someone have mount those spigot flanges on RZ cylinder and how it fit with the pipe ?

I'm affraid to use red loctite with small bolt in case of they jam together. Do you think blue locktite will be sufficient ?

Mine go up from 142-144 to 156-157 with stock crank and 20cc dome after some rides. I also get some higher value when the engine is hot (only check when the motor was in break in).