2001Stroker

I did some digging, and found the factory wiring diagram for the RZ350. It is an AC system. There is a shit load of electrical, compared to a regular Banshee. But, I'm sure that with those links to convert to DC, you can figure it out. http://www.keystonegarageclub.com/rztech/i...s/RZ350-7-1.jpg

Ok, I just re-wired my whole bike last night. The kill switch and headlight switch are on two totally different circuits. But, they share the same factory plug. Take your radiator shroud off, and look behind the radiator. Make sure it's plugged in. I'm willing to bet that it came unplugged.

I just re-wired my entire bike last night. I cut out all the TORS crap, shortened it, and located all of my electronics to behind the radiator. The yellow wire coming from the stator is constant hot. It has a "Y" in it, that branches off yellow one way, and blue the other. Blue goes to the voltage regulator, and yellow goes to the factory headlight switch. I took the yellow ran it straight to both the front lights, so that whenever the engine's running, the headlights and taillight will be on. Then, just run a black wire from each light, and tie it into any black wire on the bike. They are all tied into each other, and grounded at the stator and on the frame. So, any all black wire will do. As long as nobody has cut it out, the taillight wire shoud still be ran to the taillight. It's also blue.

That sums up pretty much anything that everyone on here uses. This topic has been covered hundreds of times. The search button is your friend. It's in the top right of every screen. I personally use 110 octane and just changed to Castor927. I was using SuperM. I only changed oil because my new motor has power valves, and 927 has additives to help keep them clean.

Does an RZ350 not come from the factory with a battery? I was thinking that it does, since it has electronic controllers for the power valves.

Fuel - 87, 91, 93, 98, 100, 103, 104, 108, 110, 112, AVGAS, Methanol, Alcohol, Nitrous Oxide Oil - Amsoil, Castor927, Super Techniplate, SuperM, BelRay, Yamalube, Red-Line, Gas Station Crap, you name it.....

Stator only equipped electrical systems are AC current. Since your bike has a battery, it should already be DC from the factory. You do not have to convert anything. It sounds like you either have a dead cell in the battery, or a bad stator. The stator has two hot wires coming out of it. One goes to the ignition, and the other goes to the lights and probably to the power valve controller. You need to find both hot wires, and test the outputs to make sure they are charging. Also test the voltage regulator(s). Take the battery up to an auto part store. They can usually test the battery, to see if it needs replaced.

Ricky Stator, Rick's Stator, RM Stator.....All have bad reviews on here. If you want higher output, just get the stock one rewound at a local auto electric shop.

Yea, stock is 26mm. But you need to know the size of the big side. Just take off the carb and measure it with a tape measure. K&N sells them in standard sizes.

That's the whole make and model. Moto Tassinari Delta VForce3.

Drain the coolant system. Just pop off the lower radiator hose, where it goes into the clutch cover. Take the 3 phillips head screws out of the plastic water pump cover, that's bolted to the clutch cover. Then take the 5 phillips head screws out of the other impeller cover. You're probably gonna need an impact driver. Try to save this gasket. If it rips, get a new one. Tip the bike up on it's side, at about a 45* angle. Take the clutch cover off. You can re-use that gasket. From the back side of the cover, use a flathead screwdriver to take off the e-clip that's holding on the white plastic gear. Take off the washer, then pull off the gear. Pull the impeller out from the front side. Check the shaft on it. If it has a groove in it, then replace it. You might as well go ahead and replace the seal while you're in there. So, I wouldn't even worry about inspecting it. Just replace it.

I'm not talking about drag racing. I'm talking about MX, GNCC, yada, yada, yada. Probably should've cleared that up.

If you're jumping, racing, or riding in the woods.....I say get some. They're actually required in racing, so you don't tangle your tires with anyone else's. Dunes and hillclimbs, I wouldn't.

What the fuck?! Do you want us to help you fix your Banshee, or are you gonna keep arguing with him? Quit sweatin it. Now go to your Banshee, check the breather hoses, and the water impeller shaft and seal. Then, holler back. And while you're in the garage, drink a beer.

Octane booster is too inconsistant. Stay away from it. Just buy higher octane gas.

Something's bent. You can only adjust camber on aftermarket arms.

mk32us1, There are almost 32,000 members on this site. Whenever someone posts a bike on here that they had stolen, we would like to help them out. But, we can't help those that don't give us the information that we need. Alot more pictures with more detail would be nice. We already got who, and what. We also need, when, where, and how. And who knows why. Tell us some information on the bike. Anything that makes it stand out from others. Tell us what tires, rims, motor, a-arms, swingarm, handlebars, and any other thing that you can think of, on the bike. It helps narrow it down. Good luck.

One under the rear motor mount, and one inside the water pump cover. They have rubber hoses that go to a "T", and then up behind the radiator.

Don't forget about the 2 breather tubes. Maybe water got in while you were washing it. Just a thought.

Naval Jelly, and steel wool.

http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...4#vehicleSelect

Bold choice, with the trans gold. Doesn't look too bad though. Did you put flake in it too?

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hahahaha. 370 is not a stroker motor. It's a stock stroke with 66mm bore. You can have stroker domes instead of the spacer plate. 14/41 is stock gearing. What a goober.

Fits 1877-2006