Dick Wheels

yea I wouldn't blame the 10% because most of our stations here where I am in NY are all that way and never had a jetting issue or poor running issue. I also have a 250r and my shee. both run like champs on it so I think you had another underlaying issue!

I had one on my bike and dicked with it for a few months and never got it right. i tried a 34mm pj with a ton of jets and a few needles and then bought a brand new 35 pwk and set it up exactly how trinity wanted me to and that didnt work so then i tried my way with a ton of jets and needles and no go. finally got pissed and basically gave it away and bought some stockers without the tors and got them jetted and runs great

I have had 4 and love them. never get the auto in the 97 and up cause that tranny is junk and if you drive it every day the soft top gets old. if you drive it everyday you will want the hard top and the hard doors. Also if you plan on putting bigger tires on it make sure you have decent gears. i just got rid of my 02 wrangler x that i had 32's on and it was miserable to drive and couldn't use 5th gear cause it dint have the balls to turn the tires even with the 4.0l. I just got rid of that 02 and 3 weeks ago bought a 2005 rubicon and hands down the best ever. If you can afford one thats the best way to go. everything is upgraded and comes with 31's from the factory along with rear disk brakes, dana 44's with 4.11's, 6 speed, and you can lock the axles with a push of a button and make the diffs spools. the thing is nasty.

+1 I'll agree but you cant complain about free either! :thumbsup:

It's sad that some fag took the time to even come up with that gay ass site but in a way its kinda funny. They are all probably like 12 or something. but yea i joined to get my 2 cents in for fun. Gotta represent the shee and the HQ guys

I have a set and I love them. They are a great trail pipe. They are better then stock because they weigh less and sound 100% better. I'll admit they aren't the best pipe out there but they do a good job at smoothing out the power band delivery and bring it in nice and early in the rpms. Plus have an awesome pop sound to them with out the packing. Check out my video on you tube for the sound.

I think im gonna mess with them a bit, just created a name and a new topic! lol homo's

Buy a new frame for $300 with a title and swap everything. Take the torch or saw and cut old frame to little pieces and make it disappear...end of story! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-A-arm-...1QQcmdZViewItem

I run Mercury Premium outboard oil in everything because I buy it by the gallon for the boat. Its about $35 a gallon. If it's good enough for the screaming 200hp v6 from 1978 than it's good enough for my 2 quads. 36:1 run gallons thew and no issues. smells good to

Something smells in here!!!

LOL, you beat me to it!

I have dg's and you can use the stock exhaust rubbers and clamps for between the pipes and silencers

There is really no places to ride around here except peoples private property and thats not cool. Its actually pretty sad around here. Everyone is a dick and wont let you ride anywhere and we don't have the dunes and parks like other states have.

I want some trails like that around here!

im looking for a Stock shee air box with the trinity single carb adapter if at all possible. i can paypal the money or however you like or i also have some stock parts to trade. i have a stock set of jugs stock head stock tranny gears minus the shift drum stock swingarm and rear shock stock axle let me know, thanks alot

could running a single uni pod air filter instead of the stock air box be causing all my problems. its just getting way to much air so that no matter what needle or jetting i try as soon as it hits mid throttle and starts really needing air its just way to lean no matter what i do?

Never mind I lied. it seemed to run good in the driveway but as soon as I took it to my riding place it was doing the same thing. I just am really stumped with this thing. i was watching the pipes while i reved it and almost looked as if it was back firing into them it was really strange. i think I give up and I am just gonna just bring it to my friends shop before its broke. I'm capable of everything else but this is foreign language to me

Ok, Played with it a little more today in the thunder and lightning. I put a 185 back in it where it should be safe and can go down from there later. I richened that needle up like u said and tried my eej and it only got worse and smoked more. I then put the dek back in it and tried all the positions and in the 1st and 2nd position (leanest) it ran the best and is now drivable. So obviously my stumble/studder was because of having way to rich of needles and that pj sucked. For now should i run it in the 1st and 2nd clip of my dek needle and see where im at or should i order the next leanest needle from my dek so i can go back to the middle clip and have some room to play with for my tuning. You guys have been great and thanks for the help. I'm just happy I got it running that good I'm not racing it, just trail and pit riding so rich is ok for me as long as it isn't fouling plugs out. i would rather be way safe then blowing it up all the time

thats part of the issue, it seems im so far off with the needle that no matter what i do to the main it still runs the same. And I cant tell if it gets "faster or slower" because the bike falls on its face at mid throttle and spits and spudders so it never will rev beyond that point. ive tried a eej needle with mains between 170 and 205 and even a cgj needle with mains between 170 and 205 with no luck. I bought the new 35mm pwk and it came with a 160 main and dek needle and still did the same except it does seem better now with the clip on that needle in the 2nd position (almost fully lean) and the 160 so thats why i think i need the leaner needle

do u want me to test that and tell u with the 160 main thats in it or a richer main?

ok, so if my DEK needle wont go lean enough to get rid of the spit and spudder which needle do I choose? If I am looking at the needle chart, do i choose the next leaner needle in the same column which would be a dgk or do i need to go with a cgk or cek? Why does this have to be so confusing? Makes me wish I just put slightly smaller duals on it.

I'm sorry but carbs and jetting was never my strong point. Anyways what i mean by finally reving out is before you would hit mid throttle and it would just stumble and studder and never wanna get past that point. and now after the adjustments i have made that i stated above it actually revs threw the entire rpm range instead of just getting to mid throttle and thats it. I thought that when you raised the clip on the needle ( moving it away from the pointy end) that you were leaning it out because in turn you are putting more needle in the main and allowing less fuel to run threw it.

Ok. So basically put the main back to about 185ish and continue to lean out the needle until the mid throttle stumble/studder goes away and it revs up fully?

Ok, I just received my new 35mm PWK and and replaced the 34pj I havent been able to get jetted correctly. The PWK came with 160 main, 48 pilot and DEK needle. I started with stock settings except bumped up to a 185 main and studderd at mid throttle. So i moved down to a 175 main and did the same thing. Tried a 170 and did the same so i went back to the 160 it came with and got much better. I leaned the clip out 1 notch so now I'm in the 2nd from the top instead of the middle and seems to be ok. Ok as in it finally revs threw out the entire rpm range. For a single carb setup this sounds pretty lean to me. What do you think? I don't really have a good starting point because when I got the shee it wasn't in drivable condition and had 2 34mm pj's on it and ran like crap over the entire rpm range. Those had 175 mains, 58 pilots and cgj needles in the middle. Thank you to everyone who has helped out and continues to help. This thing would have been long sold without you guys and this site!!

That answers one of the questions I have also been wondering about.