someone82

here is a shot of mine, i'm using 16.5" Works Dual Rates I just put on the yfz spindles which gave me more travel (not pictured) then the banshee spindles and I think I could run 18" shocks or 19" but I haven't measured yet.

What needle are you running and what clip is it on. I also think your rich on the mains for not having any porting. Try 160's and go from there. You can try moving the clip up on the needle and see if it improves your bog, if it does your rich.

No sir, the shock is too long and has a different lower mount. I think I've read that raptor 660 rear shock might fit, but I'm not positive.

I've run 2 down from the top when and noticed a little bit crisper mid range throttle response, but I prefer running her a little rich. I'm running an airbox with no lid and a proflow w/K&N.

check out http://www.speedwaymotors.com or http://www.brmotorsports.com, also know as helper springs in the Sprint car world

With my setup in my sig i'm running N68A needles (middle clip) with 48 pilots and 158 mains.

ummm that's how you strip drain plug threads, it only needs a little snug or did you mechanic tell you to do that too :geek: sorry i just couldn't sit back and listen to this anymore :ermm:

I've rebuilt a bunch of master and wheel cylinders before and it's very easy, just make sure you use a good lube and you don't catch the stones on the edge of cylinder. You only need to make a few passes as well, if you make to many you'll lose too much material and the plunger seal won't seal properly.

x2 on gravity bleeding, it's almost always a surefire way to make sure your brake system is air free.

You mentioned you rebuilt the master cylinder. Did you hone out the cylinder before putting the new plunger seal in? If not the seal will never properly seat and you have issues like your haveing.

Installed a timing plate; hmm did you lock-tite the bolts that hold it to the case? I've seen cases where the bolts loosen up and the timing plate starts to slip.

Totally off subject, but i know the feeling when i got my cool head it sat on my desk at work for a few days and just about every other part I've bought. :biggrin:

If your worried about spending the money you could always just pop the factory head off and have it milled .20. I ran this combo for a while and it provided a nice little bottom end boost. Just make sure you check for proper squish (.45) after you have it milled because factory heads varied in their castings. At the same time you can find a used cool head on ebay for about the same amount that you'll spend on milling the head and the gasket kit.

permatex motoseal

Well my shocks building experience mainly comes from my sprint car racing days (penske and advanced shocks), which i would rebuild every couple months (i would dyno them each month to check consistency or after a nasty crash). From what I've seen so far with the works shocks, as long as they don't bottom or top out and you keep the shafts nick free they last quite a while, sand tho like you said can play havoc on shaft seals, hell sand can play havoc period on any seal. 3 year sounds like a good life span to me, from what i'm used too

Works shocks are very easy to rebuild, just one thing to remember when adding the nitrogen, i usually over fill by 2 pounds because when you knock off the charging valve i have at least have noticed a 2 pound drop when re-checking the pressure.

Ok now that I have my go power taken care of, I'm in need of some Whoa power for the trails. I know that the yfz450 brake calipers are a direct front brake replacement but i want to know if there are any other options. What about rotors, I've noticed there are so many laser cut rotors out there, but what ones actually provide a gain? I'm going to look into wilwood here soon, has anyone investigated this already? Thanks, Matt

check this out, it will tell you everything you need to know http://www.worksperformance.com/pdf/instru.../sb_service.pdf :cool:

1. depends where you ride, some places check at the gate, some don't check. Gorman is the only place where I have never been bugged about not running my tags (I think they look ugly) 2. See your tag is your bikes license plate, the series of 6 numbers and letters in unique to your bike. So if you put a tag say from a 98 yz250 on your quad and it's ran by park rangers your screwed, your either fined or the quad can be impounded. here is a link to awnser all your questions about red tags :http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/arti...l.jsp?id=304163

4x156 standard Yamaha front wheel bolt pattern

yes the 700 arms are the same as the yfz450.. raptor 660 arms are different

I need a rear water neck for a cool head, does anybody have a spare?

Thanks for that, I gave them a call and it's 7.46 a gal for F&L 111 (min purchase is 5 gal) So I'll go check them out next week seeing they are only open mon - fri. once again appreciate the help

take a picture of your pistons and post it. preignition (detonation) will also cause your plugs to back out, ground straps to colapse, and many other exciting things; we're they loose when you went to remove them? still it sounds like you had a head gasket leak. how long did you run it for with it doing this?

yes i am, here is my e-mail: [email protected]