someone82

Sounds like that cylinder is running rich. Have you pulled the carbs apart? Cleaned them of any built up gunk. Check your float levels, make sure your needle is strait (bent needles cause excess fuel to flow) and the tip of it isn't damaged, and lastly your air screw is out quite a bit for your jetting. I safe spot is 1.5 turns out, anything over two usually suggests that you need a richer pilot jet, but from what i see you plenty jetting for what your running. Last are your air filters nice and clean?

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? Toomey T-5s 2) What type of airfilter do you have? K&N w/outerware 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all Stock box with no lid, and a proflow adapter 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) Sea Level 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 48 6) What size main jets are you using? 158 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 70-80* 8) Do you have a port job? MX/Trail Port 9) What kind of carbs? Sudco Kleihn PWKs 10) What size carbs? 28's 13) Crank? Stock Trued and Welded 14) Head/domes? Stock 15) Reeds? Ported stock cages w/ Boyesen 2 Stage Reeds 16) Pistons/bore? MH racing 65mm pistons 17) Premix ratio/oil/fuel? 40:1 Blenzall Ultra 91 oct 18) Timing? +4

I don't have stock carbs on my bike, but from what your saying if your air screw is turned 2.5 out, it sounds to be too lean on the pilot jet. Mains come in at 3/4 to WOT throttle. Up your pilot and turn your air screw in. 1.5 out is a good starting point. Hopefully someone will chime in soon with some good stock carb tuning advice. while your at it check out this thread: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361 search through it and you'll probably find a setup like yours and get a good jetting point for your bike.

ahh poop, thanks for the fix

You could always just run the front fitting out strait instead of using the 90* fitting. The fuel line will have a smoother bend (as long as you don't kink it) to it and will flow better. The fewer the sharp bends the better. When I used to crew chief on sprint cars, i never used anything over a 45* fitting on the fuel lines. oh and MIP stands for "Male Iron Pipe"

Read This and you'll know why. lol

I think what you did is great, I've been toying with doing the same. :thumbsup: What size fittings did you run?

PM Sent

Yeah after i discovered it, i did a search here on the forum and discovered it was not uncommon. When the stock impeller deterioates the motor will start overheating, you might not notice it but it gets hot enought to slowly break down the plastics, in turn the back side of the impeller gear strips out due to being weak. The water mixed in with the coolent could be just boiling off while you ride and you won't notice it with overflow tank behind you. Like i said before this was the problem that I had, but I had already ditched the overflow tank, so I never delt water going "missing", I could see right where it was going. Funny thing about this problem with it's symptoms it looks like it should be a leaky head gasket, but at least it wasen't in my case.

You could be foolled, I had a simalar problem. My water pump impeller gear (Part Number #5 in the image above) was stripped out on the keyed side, so when at idle there would be enough friction between the gear and the impeller shaft to spin the impeller and flow water, but as soon as I would get the motor spinning, the impeller would stop spinning and the motor would boil over. disconnect the overflow line from the overflow tank, mount it to where you can see it while riding (please don't point it at you :geek:). Let the motor warm up and then take it for a quick spin around the block, if it starts spitting, i'm 95% sure this is your problem and just so you know, it's not uncommon. Give this a try and let us know.

What sizes, what offsets, and how much?

Be Careful, sucking water into the carbs and into the motor can cause bad things. Water doesn't compress so you can bend rods real quickly. Also Having the cold water hit the intake side of a pistons can cause cracks and failure as well (I've had it happen to me). Does the motor struggle to run? Does it sputter and you can't get it to rev worth crap? If so it sounds to me that you are sucking water into the carbs. If this is the case, shut the motor down right away (don't try to keep it running, that's where the damage will really o-cure) , pull the plugs and drain the cylinders (tip the bike on the side) and let them dry out. matt

motoseal by permatex, stuff works great.

Gave me a great deal and was superfast with shipping. Thanks Man A++ :thumbsup:

See what i mean deals pop up like you wouldn't believe! :beer:

If your patient enough you can find some pretty good deals for full sets on e-bay. I got that same package for 135 at the start of the year. Just check out items when their first listed and sometimes there are bitchin buy it now deals. :thumbsup: matt

yes sir, how much would you take for it w/shipping?

I discovered mine was damaged and a need a replacement, anyone have a inner clutch hub laying around? thanks, Matt

yeah I'm jealous... oh well my rotates and that is what counts

Yeah i had to do the same, now did yours have any rough edges like mine?

Don't worry I took no offense at all; :cool: the pictures are just unclear. I my self was kinda surprised at the powdercoating too; i did actully clean all the mating surfaces up because there was some dust imbeded in the powder coating. Yeah the "dremal work" was interesting to say the least but it clears the bolt shaft thoughout the rotation of the plate.

It is powder coat, it's just kinda hard to tell in the pictures but it's not bare aluminum

Here are some photos: Stator and Plate Rough slot Removal of powdercoat Timing Marks Now here is a question for everybody; has anyone ever tested the accuracy of all these adjustable timing plates on the market? After I get the motor together and running I will put my timing light to the motor and see what i get. Stock timing is suppose to be 17* base timing if i recall off of the top of my head right? :shrug: Matt

I decided to give their plate a try seeing it was only $25 off of e-bay plus shipping. First I thought it was going to take a while to ship from Canada to so cal, but it only took less then a week so I was impressed. The product it self isn't a bad piece, the timing marks are nice and clear and easy to read and the all the screw holes line up perfectly. The bad; powder coating is thick and rough, I had to grind a bit off to make it fit inside the tabs of the case. Second some of the mill work is rough, one of the slots for the mounting screws looks like it was ground out by hand, but everything is with in alignment and I can rotate the plate just fine. Does it work, i couldn't tell ya, my motor is still on the bench waiting for my cylinders to get bored, :geek: so I'll post some pictures up tomorrow. Otherwise I'm happy with the product and I wouldn't tell people not to get. :cool: Clicky Here for their website link

Gave me a great deal on a crank, with fast shipping. Thanks Man A+++