someone82

Can i see some pictures of the wheels

It sounds like coolant was getting into your cylinder and you'll be ok to clean the piston, but be sure to put some 2 stroke oil on the cylinder walls and piston crown so everything stays nice and lubed when you fire it back up. Also heat cycle the motor a couple of times before taking it out for a spin.. Start it, warm it fully up and shut her down. Let it cool completely, re-torque the head and repeat this process a couple more times that way you can be sure that the gasket will seal and the head is torqued down properly. Also do some investigation into why the gasket leaked in the first spot, look for clean spots in-between the water jackets and combustion chamber. Because you don't want to have to pull the head again to find out you missed a little burr of metal on the cylinder or something.

What's the size and off set on the douglas wheels?

I run dual 28s and I have tried out the single deal. I prefer the 28's over the single, the bike has more top end and I personally didn't feel much difference down low. I run everything from super tight 1 way trails to WFO trails and haven't had any issues lugging her around. Plus having the little extra at the top comes in handy when you need to whip the rear end around and the throttle responce is much crisper. Listen to loco and get the head too, it will really benifit you with being able to change out the combustion chambers and that will help out your low end grunt as well. I just recently picked up a used pro design head off of ebay for only $115 so if your on a budget, you can still find some pretty decent deals out there.

Ah you are the man thanks, I've been trying to find that place off of the 126, i was told it was by the old ford dealership just before you get into fillmore, but I haven't had any luck, so if you can find out the address that would be great. Even better since it's on the way to gorman. I'll check out the pro shop too Where abouts in oxnard do you live?

yeah i know, and I just go to the local dirt track normally and buy it there when I'm in the pits (racers discount), but it's off season and i'm fresh out.

For those that are from socal, where do you purchase your race gas. I live in ventura county, so the closer the better or even in ventura would be the best, except cal coast because they are over priced.

Not a drag bike, but I run a cr style kill switch that i got off of ebay for cheap (brand new) and here is a picture:

Cool, thanks a bunch man, I picked up one used off of NYUK so I just want to make sure I get everything right before I slap it on.

I think you are correct, beh it was late when I wrote this I was just going to use loctite green for the lubicating properties, when installing them, that's all i ever did on my vw motors. Which loctite is temp rated, i've never noticed? Thanks For all the tips guys

I know that the head nuts get torqued to 20lbs (I go 10 - 15 - 20), but what do i torque the new studs too? Thanks guys

+1 they always have what i need in stock and I get it within 2 days of ordering.

ok good to know... hmm where have i seen that then :shrug: that is quite a bit, that is allot shorter spring then stock, maybe the previous owner was playing with spring rates. http://www.speedwaymotors.com has great prices and selection on hypercoil springs, look under the oval track section

From what I've seen and If I recall correctly the older yfz450 (or maybe it was the 700r) shocks had a linear rate spring on them (no bunched up coils) and the newer 450's have the progressive rate springs on them (coils bunched at the top). The reason you might now have mcuh spring tension is because the shock is not loaded (not installed) and the shock it self is at full extention so the spring it self is not loaded. I would recommend you take it to a bike shop that can rebuild shocks, so they can add the right fulid (not any oil will work) and so the shock can be recharged with nitrogen at the right psi. If this is done wrong the Consequences can be nasty.

Here is someone you should look into, http://www.maxwellindustries.com/ , I know the owner (steve watt) personally and he does amazing welding work and is located here in ventura, not too far from you. I have had him do some fab work on more then one sprint car I've built. Matt

Warehouse manager (shipping, receiving, driver, listening to customers complain, etc.. etc..) for the ONLY stand alone (Barley surviving the housing market) Stock Building Supply Window and Door location in California.

Oh I have plenty of engine gaskets and seals; I'm just playing around with several different custom cut heads. you have a pm

Where is the best place (and price) online to buy stock head gaskets, without buying a whole top end kit. thanks

what's the length on the swingarm, it looks pretty short.

Check out their product list: http://www.deppipes.com/product_list.htm hmm you know what i just noticed this product list is from 06, I wonder if they don't make them anymore. :ermm: edit- i just sent them an e-mail out of curiosity so we'll see what they say.

You know this is a REally good post and I at least think it should be a sticky, can give allot of guys good starting points for jetting their bikes. :thumbsup:

Yes DEP primarly makes dirt bike pipes, but I got curious and checked out their website, they make a set of pipes for the banshee. weird

I might be interested, do you have any other pictures (of the broken bracket)? What is the od of the silencer cans, because I have to run spark arrestors where i ride.

I got a billet one (proflow) off of ebay used for 20 bucks and it fit nicely and seems to work just fine. Only thing is I had a hard time finding the right air filter for it. Because even the part number that Proflow gave me was incorrect.

Is it just the tank or does it come with the petcock and gas cap, plus the extra mounting hardware. How much are you asking?