CBAIER1206

Very simple...get a clymers manual and check a couple of things with an ohm tester...check the stator first as they seem to be the most prone to fail. Then check your pickup coil, then the ignition coil itself. replace the plug cap boots as they are cheap and are also prone to fail...if all is good then it sounds like its gonna be your CDI box. I listed these somewhat in order as to how they "usually" fail. Your bike might be sparking even though you think it isn't. Oh, almost forgot, replace the plugs first before anything else as well as the vent hose off the gas tank, if it's clogged then the bike wont run... I had a friend chase what he thought was an electrical issue and spent almost a grand on replacing everything and to his surprise, his vent hose was clogged! Good luck!

9 paddles for sure on that setup, I am running 11 paddles on my 421 cub and they are perfect. I wouldn't run a 10 in diameter rim either, prolly an 8 inch. The more sidewall on the tire, the better for hooking up even though it won't look as cool, it will definately make a difference when it comes time to race... 22x11x8 9 paddles will be perfect...

Go to a local shop and get them bored over and do new pistons and rings and reassemble...should cost you no more than 300 buck and your bike will be like brand new!

vforce3's---$220 13 tooth front sprocket---$25 coolhead---$240 engine ice---$20 You have pretty much maxed out your setup and the only way you will really get more hp is to dig into the motor and do a stroker or a bigger bore. The reeds will be noticeable by giving you a much crisper throttle response, the coolhead and engine ice will make your bike run way cooler which equates to a little more power, but the most noticeable "cheater mod" will be the sprocket, will feel like you gained 10 hp literally. Boost bottle is garbage and smaller domes will not do anything except make you run more expensive gas and make your bike more prone to blow up. As far as the carbs, I could argue both sides...I have a riding buddy that has practically the same setup as you with stock carbs but it's jetted perfectly and he wipes most bikes up the hill...it really depends on the kind of riding you do. Bigger carbs will give you better power band up top but you will lose some low end so if you trail ride you may want to stick with the stockers. If you dune, then go with bigger carbs as you can always stay on the pipe when you ride... Hope this helps...good luck!

1211 for sure, got the reccomendation from mike at cascade who says thats what he uses on all his cub motors...

290's sound pretty low for that setup... a friend of mine runs 370's on his ported motor with stock carbs, pipes and pods and his bike rips!

My wifes bike is exactly like you described and she is running 25 pilots and 330 mains. Keep in mind, every bike is different. IMO the 27.5 pilot is gonna be too rich for your bike and make it bog down low. Lots of people on here with ported cylinders run a 25 pilot. I would start with 320-330 mains and go down if you need to...remember it's better to start rich and work down then to run lean initially and cause damage to your engine. Just my .02

You will definately start to see rust spots if you dont take care of them as is also true with chrome pipes, although I imagine they don't start to show signs of rust nearly as fast...

I agree... a 25 pilot will definately fix your bogging problem and your mains are prolly spot on as long as it pulls hard on top. You'd rather have it a little rich then run too lean and have an issue. A friend of mine uses 370 mains on almost the exact same setup and his bike is really quick. On my wifes bike, stock port with only a Toomey pipe and a K&N pods I just switched her to a 330 main and it's spot on. Unfortunately every bike is different even if the mods are the same, hence require different jetting. Just make slow adjustments until you are happy with it and you'll be fine! What you don't want to do is take jetting advice from someone that never even asked what alltitude you ride at.... :thumbsup:

Answered my own question...went up to 330 mains and one turn out on the air screws, left side pilot was clogged and re-gapped plugs to 28 thousandths. No more backfiring!

So I just did a new top end on the wifes shee last week and also at the same time added pod filters and eliminated the factory airbox. Previously with a K&N filter and the factory box with no lid I was running 280 mains and the stock pilots and it ran fine. Upon rebuilding I changed the mains out to 310's again keeping the stock pilots. The bike has way better compression now. The bike starts and idles fine and also revs out fine but the exhaust pops or backfires quite a bit on decelleration. Plugs look okay. So what gives?

I had a 20psi difference between my cylinders about 6 mos ago after a dune trip come to find out the base gasket was leaking on one side. So I rebuilt it with new rings and made sure to use 1211 gasket sealer on every gasket and re-checked...they were both reading dead on after that. Even though they were 20 psi off, my bike still ran strong..I just happened to check compression for the hell of it and found the problem. So I guess what I'm getting at is that you do need to address the difference in compression but I don't believe that is making your bike bog at WOT unless it's an airleak. What temp does your bike run at? If I were a betting man, I would say you have a leak somewhere causing one of your banks to run lean and hot hence crappy at WOT. DO a leak down test and make sure it holds 6psi of air for 6 minutes and if it doesn't then spray around the gaskets with soapy water and look for bubbles, you will find your leak. If you don't have a tester, you can make one from parts at a local ace hardware for about 20 bucks. If you do a search on here, somebody did a write up on how to build one. By the way, with stock cylinders, aftermarket pipes and filter...you should be running between a 280-320 main. Hope this helps....good luck!

Buy the manual made by Clymers and it will tell you everything you will need to know...

There are 3 rubber gaskets that you can purchase for a total of about 12 bucks to rebuild your petcock and it will be solid again and not leak!

It's called the king kong bundy!! LOL....guaranteed to stop any leaks, period! :yelrotflmao:

+1 for the teardown...if it got in your intake then it is definately in your motor, I wouldn't even do a compression test...what's the point really? If you were lucky enough to not damage the cylinders yet then you have to assume there is sand in the motor somewhere and continuosly turning it over will eventually move that sand around to places where it will trully damage things if they aren't already. A compression test is for people that can't get their engine to fire or if the bike is not running properly. And don't bother with a leakdown test either until after you put the motor back together. A leakdown won't tell you if there is sand in your motor...it will only tell you if you have a leak from gaskets or your intake boots, etc. which isn't your concern yet. I too wrench on my on stuff and think you would be best off by tearing everything down including splitting the cases and getting everything spot clean. Make sure to be overly thourough! Inspect the cylinders for scores and if they aren't bad, then reassemble and do a compression test. If results are good then away you go! If not, then you know that all it really cost you is at the very least a re-hone and rings which would run you about $40 bucks or at the most...a re-bore and new rings/pistons for $300 bucks. Just my .02

Yes, the o-ring helps keep the bearings in place and replace the retainer clips on the old crank

I live right by there and have not seen it, is it his house or does he have a shop and if so...where is it located?

I've had really good luck with the factory chains and believe them to be pretty durable...I have 2 2004 banshees and one still has the original chain and the other I just swapped out only because I went to a +4 swinger, it's all in the maintenence!

If you went from the stock box and filter to no box and K&N's then absolutely! It's been a while since I've had to deal with stock carbs so I'm not sure on the exact size but I'm guessing that you can keep the same pilot and go up a few sizes on the mains at least!

Went to 52 pilots 1 1/2 turns out and it starts and idles great! Also switched to 165 mains being that I was throwing a bunch of smoke under full throttle so I will re-test and check plugs and report...

VForce 3's...

All bikes are different depending on their tollerences when built, break-in procedures, etc. but should be between 32 and 38 hp.

I agree with dajogejr...the bog you're feeling down low is prolly your pilots since they control the first 1/4 of your throttle response. in addition to changing your mains...I would check to see if the pilots are clogged first and if they aren't, maybe go up just one size and see if that fixes your low end bog. Another test is to warm the bike up and pull the choke since it supposed to richen the mixture and see if it rides any better...if it does then you're definately running a little lean! Good luck

I think I figured it out...I went up 10 sizes on the mains which blows my mind and clearly illustrates the true difference in potential between drag pipes and regular pipes like Toomeys on a modded motor! My main is now a 168 and my pilot is a 55 with a cel needle. I'm thinking though that tomorrow I will try a 52 pilot because right off idle I'm getting a slight hesitation or bog... I will post my results as soon as I get them.