CBAIER1206

I just finished relocating my cdi and it was rather easy and turned out amazing! I can't believe that I've read 6 pages of this....Where's Judge Judy when you need her...lol :ninja:

You should just quit screwing around and get a cub motor and be done with it!! :cool: At the end of the day, I think what everybody here is trying to say is that mod for mod...the banshee is quicker provided all other things being equal. Weight is also a factor. If your buddy weighs 150lbs and you weigh like 250lbs, you're gonna have your hands full. Good luck!

Ditto...went to the dunes a couple of weeks ago for a 4 day trip and on the first day my buddy's bike went down because he welded the ball and rod together, ruined his whole trip. Needless to say when we got home, I went right out and got one!

I kinda figured that was it, but I had so many things apart when I was working on it that I just wanted to make sure, I will bolt it in and try again...thanks for your help

Well, I just got done relocating my cdi box trimming out all the unnecessary wiring of which there is a ton of!!! I hooked everything together and fired it up and she started and runs with no problems...except one. During the first 5-10 seconds of running, the headlights flickered and then popped and the bulbs blew, the bike runs but none of the lights work. My question is this...I went over everything as per the wiring diagram in clymers and noticed that the voltage regulator should have a ground coming from it yet mine only has the blue wire, does this mean that bolting it down would be the equivilant of grounding it since the body of it is made out of metal? When I fired the bike...I just had it connected and hanging loosely, could this have been the cause of my headlights going out? Are there any tests I can do to check voltage or whatnot? If so I have a voltmeter.....Any help would be greatly appreciated since I leave for the dunes on friday!

The PWK carbs are amazing... but I guess before you listen to everybodies opinions as to which carbs are their 'personal favorite' You must ask yourself whats wrong with your current setup and what does it not do for you, ie. no low end, lack of top end, response. I would tell you to figure that out and then get a reccomendation as to what's the best replacement to fix your issue. You seem to be on the fence though which tells me that you are happy with what you have so I would tell you that if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Thanks for your help...it's kinda funny because I built the motor on this bike myself and have torn down my cobra motor and built it up several times, but when it comes to electrical I guess I'm retarted...LOL ::

Each headlight has a yellow and a green wire coming from it, so am I to understand that the green wire is high beam and the yellow is low beam? If that is so, then it sounds like connecting the green wires to the yellow/red wire should solve my issue. Can anyone else confirm this?

I'm eliminating the headlight switch from the handlebars and wanted to know how to connect or re-wire that part to keep the headlights on all the time without the use of a switch?

Doesn't yamaha reccomend running 24:1 during normal riding even though most people ignore that and run leaner? I've ran about a gallon so far just letting it idle for a long period and then doing some casual riding through the neighborhood...my neighbors cant be too thrilled by the way! I was gonna do another gallon then switch to 32:1 and run a full tank through and then it's on to 36:1 or 40:1. Is this not a good idea?

I did a clean up port on it and port matched the transfers to the engine case ans vice versa

Just finished installing my cheetah setup with the parts in my sig and went to kick start the bike today with my fingers crossed! It took me slightly pressing on the throttle to start it after a couple of kicks but it fired up and sounded sweet! I'm running 110 octane at a 20:1 fuel/oil ratio to break in the motor. Anyways the motor would not idle and the right bank was barely working almost like it was running on 1 cylinder...my heart almost skipped a beat! My initial thought was that I missed something during the install and I was ready to do a compression test, but I started fiddling with the carbs first. I adjusted the cable so the carbs were synced and still the same result but got it too idle at least without me having to hold the throttle. At that point I noticed the slides in the carbs were different...the left one sat higher up at idle. Keep in mind all these parts are brand new including the carbs, so needless to say I adjusted the right carbs idle screw and probably had to turn it 5 turns to get it to match the left carb. Problem solved! Both banks now fired identically and I could feel an equal amount of heat in both pipes whereas before the left pipe would get hot and the right would be cool. I found it crazy that the carbs were brand new and could be that different in their initial settings! I just wanted to share my experience in case someone else has a similar issue...however... This bike rips! I have run out almost a full tank just letting it idle and doing some easy riding through the neighborhood trying to break it in properly but I got on it once in third gear as I could not resist and WOW! All those on the fence to get this setup, go for it!

what about around the seals for the crank?

So I am in the process of installing my 421 cheetah cub setup...The case is apart and I put new seals on everything, installed the new crankshaft, port matched the top of the case to match the transfers on the cub cylinder, cleaned the surfaces of the case on both sides where I am to use that yamabond gasket shit... My question is this, clymers says to coat both cases and then assemble, is there any particular area that I should pay more attention to that might be suspect to getting an air leak? Any little tips or secrets that the book doesn't cover? Any help is greatly appreciated...

That worked, thanks.

I have no problem using an impact but dont I need something to hold the crank in place so it wont start spinning like crazy?

So I just got my new 421 cheetah cub setup in the mail and am in the middle of disassembling the motor so I can swap cranks and I am stuck. Whats the best way to loosen the nut that holds the primary drive gears on the end of the crankshaft? Clymers manual says to use a special flywheel holding tool which I obviously dont have...