CBAIER1206

Well I do know a bit about what I'm talking about...I've been riding banshees since about the time you were shitting yellow. I've owned 7 of them over my lifetime and have ridden with and wrenched on more banshees than I can recall... Before making dumb statements like, "If you don't know what your talking about then shut the fuck up" you might want to figure out who that just really applies too! I just still for the life of me can't understang why you are so bent out of shape over this...dude, you have serious anger management issues, His opinion (which is merely an opinion) stated in the first post is based on people that he knows telling him probably from experience that fmf's aren't the best pipe available for the banshee...just like the author of this post, who is gonna base his opinion to upgrade pipes based on what he reads in this forum and not from first hand experience. The fact that this makes you so angry as for you to feel obligated to defend the pipes you happen to ride with is comical...especially when you try and insult people you know nothing about...that really says something for your character! I will never "stoop to your level" and trade insults with you which it seems is your intention but I can put my .02 cents in... The FMF pipes work better than stock...TRUE The FMF pipes work better than other brands like Toomey, Pro circuit, etc...OPINION The FMF pipes work better than CPI's...TRUE (unless your motor is modded and/or your cylinders are ported) Would I switch to CPI's with the mods that the author has...ABSOLUTELY See how easy that was... This website is supposed to be fun and informational and people like you forget that sometimes...

Ding Ding Ding...and in this corner.... You just need to relax, to get so upset about somebody saying that he, nor other people he has come across care for the brand of pipes you have is ludacris. Your acting like he called your old lady a fat pig or something. This is an open forum where people from all walks of life come to share their opinions it's as simple as that! So you had good luck with the pipes and he didn't...why don't you go whip his ass or something cuz he voiced his opinion....gimme a break! I had a honda accord that I bought brand new in 1991 that was a lemon, had 16 different issues yet millions say it's one of the best cars ever made, should I be mother fucked because I don't like hondas now? If you ask me, you're the one acting like a 16 year old!

www.cascade-innovations.com carries the acorn style nuts...they aren't a necessity but they really look sweet compared to the stockers

Got a little more information...I live in phoenix and ride at Glamis so I'm between sea level and 500 ft. and temp. is 60-70 degrees. I'm currently running 158 mains, 48 pilot and the needle is a CEL set on the middle clip which was dialed in pretty close for the T6 pipes I was using. When I switch to the CPI's can I use the same setting or should I adjust and if so, what? My other mods are in my sig...

Just bought a set of Cpi in frame SB pipes for my cub bike and am running 35PWK's... What size needles should I use?

Sold!

A little older than a year old...good condition with a slight amount of bluing on both header pipes. Silencers are polished to look chrome and match headers. Asking $250.00 shipped o.b.o. Pictures are of left side only as I did'nt have time to remove both sides from bike but can provide any pictures upon your request.

If its a coolhead, should be pretty self explanatory which orings go where because of their size...they'll only fit into certain locations. You want to be very thourough when putting these heads together and make sure the orings are installed correctly otherwise you can develop coolant leaks and engine damage will result! Use a thin film of grease to coat the orings before placing them in the head...this will make them stick to the head easier so when you turn the head upside down to place on the cylinders...the orings don't fall out. The dome orings seem to be the toughest to install properly. I put the base on first, and then place the domes on top of the base where they are lined up over each cylinder and then use a flashlight to inspect all 360 degrees of each dome oring to make sure they are not pinched and are in place...then just slide the top piece on and tighten her down! If you have any other questions...just holla and good luck!

Yeah, should be a total of 4 gaskets...2 per side, one for each side of the reed, I also put a thin bead of 1211 sealer on each of the gasket surfaces, front and back, to make sure I have a perfect seal every time.

So I'm gonna take the plunge today and upgrade my T6's on my cub motor...question is which pipe do you guys prefer and more importantly...which bore would be best suited for my setup, big bore or small... Thanks

Well, I bought the bike new in 04 and first thing I did was T6's and a K&N...then I decided to build the motor and I knew the pipes I had were okay but after reading a few things about it...I realized how much better I'd be without them so needless to say I'll be upgrading soon! :thumbsup:

Give her a quick zap with an impact...you'll never have a problem with it again!

This is funny because I was just talking to a buddy today about my T6's because I am gonna sell them this summer to offset some of the cost when I upgrade to shearers and I was saying that I didn't think I could get $200 bucks for them...I guess you never know! I heard those stockers add something like 12 horse...sounds like a great deal!!!

I'm voting for HD springs...Chances are pretty good as mentioned above that on a 10 year old bike that had problems shifting, the person before you opted to replace with a new clutch and prolly went with the heavy duty version. If it were me, I would drain the oil in the case and pull the side case off to get a closer look...When installing a HD clutch, it is necessary to remove the rubber o-rings that lie between each of the fiber and steel discs. Look for these and if they are missing (which they should be with a HD clutch) the clutch won't be stock. Then attempt to take one of the springs out by unscrewing the retainer screw that holds it in place...hold the spring in your fingers and squeeze it, if it is pretty difficult to compress it with your fingers then you've got you answer! It's a heavy duty clutch all right. Of course lubing your cable is something you want to do as well, prolly every season or so...But I'm betting that your clutch is HD which means there really is no fix...thats just how they are. You'll get used to it pretty quick and prolly won't want to go back... My wife's clutch is stock and mine is a HD and when I jump on her bike after riding mine it's the equivilant of getting out of my cobra and driving a civic...

I ditched my overflow a while ago and have never come close to overheating...I just open the radiator cap after every ride and check the fluid level to make sure all is well...

When you buy the proflow adapter for a K&N filter, as mentioned above, they actually reccomend to take the lid off the airbox as well as cut holes in the side of it for better breathing. My wife and I primarily ride in sand only and on our last trip to glamis, you wouldn't believe the amount of sand that got trapped in the airbox with an open lid...So I modified her box...LOL...and cut the entire thing away making it very similar to the pod filters that K&N has, just without the expense!

Doesn't cutting the piston take away from it's integrity making it weaker? I could have sworn I read that somewhere but I can't seem to remember...

It could also be a flat spotted tire or tires from sitting in same spot for a while...

I'll get them for ya...57th ave somewhere downtown Glendale...it's a self service station with like only 1 or 2 gas pumps. I guess the guy that owns it has race cars that he builds.

Best part of Arizona is in most places you can just get on your bike...ride for 5 minutes...and be in the desert! Glamis and buttercup are "IT" though...once you ride there...you will not want to ride anywhere else!

GrMeyer...I was getting my 110 at Richards ATV but there is a place in downtown Glendale that sells 110 at the pump for $7 bucks a gallon or so a buddy tells me... I first started buying VP110 but it's like $10 bucks a gallon in those blue metal 5 gallon cans at the local motorcycle shop so I progressed to the place mentioned above and it's also 110 for like $7 bucks a gallon. Never noticed a difference and I save about $50 bucks per dune trip...

Yeah, somethng is definately wrong... do you have a temp gauge and if so what temp is it reading? If not, then how do you know it's overheating? Is the bike running lean? Have you checked you plugs and re-checked your carb settings? An air leak might also cause a lean condition...My cub never breaks 145 degrees. I run a coolhead and engine ice for coolant.

I've always used the stock yamaha paper gaskets and have never had an issue which is something to be said since I change my oil after every weekend of riding...

Never seen that happen before...Guess that's why people upgrade to billet! Good thing that piece is only like 30 bucks or so...

Wiseco all the way.... How many hours on your current top end?