twizted269

you can change just one side out of frame but your gonna want to know what is causing this. obviously burning through the piston. octane or jetting i would say.

decided to got with it since i changed the impeller. do i need to flush the system out or will it be fine with that tiny bit of normal coolant?

the problem is that the run switch doesnt work right now so ive been using the key for the kill switch.

i have a key for it but its one of the long shaft curtis ones. i already broke off two of them and its a pain in the ass to get it back out. just want a stock one. found it at the dealer for $7 but thought maybe somewhere online i can find it cheaper.

yeah ill mess with it more after work tomarrow and see what i can come up with.

i hear ya on the troubleshooting. i wouldnt think it wouldnt be the cdi since it runs fine. i dont really know what it could be.

i tried that also and the answer was ringing to my ears. i thought that the ground would be the prblem but it seems to be grounded fine. even grounded it str8 to the frame. still have spark. im pretty good with electrical like that but this ones got me baffled. everything is stock and when i got the bike it didnt have the switches. put one on and it has never worked for me. all wires are hooked up right too. i dont mind using the key but it bothers the hell out of me knowing somethings wrong.

i do have a meter and a manual and checkd all wires for conductivity. all checked good but dont know how to check for backfeeding. i think im gonna pull the harness out and just re do all of it. then i can get rid of all the tors bullshit while im at it. any easy way to check for back feeding before that?

i checked the connection for corrosion and they are clean. good inside the switch. whatever it is, its after that. i tried to ground out each wire without the switch and i still have spark. i can tell where its supposed to go to and where its shorted. would i just splice in a wire from the coil circuit and ground that out to fix it?

where can i find a stock uncut key blank? want a spare key.

on my 87 the run switch does not kill the engine. i checked for connection from all wires and grounds and they seem just fine. the key will kill it but not the run switch. anyone else ever have this problem? any sugestions?

fattys should fit fine on the stock silencers. as far as modin them, i dont see anyway that you could for any advantage.

even if they made the clear center caps, you would still have to cut and trim the material behind it. it is still solid after you remove the center cap. i have one made up like that but havnt used it. had an extra cover laying around and said why not? still unteasted for leaks though.

if its cold out could be a problem. ive got an 87 thats dead on in everything that i have checked on it. went through everything that can be checked. it is still a bitch to start when its cold. just a thought.

just replace the bearing. is it really worth taking a risk in a rebuild and waste that kind of money and time?

there is nothing leading from the cylinder to the cases so its in the head if its leaking.

if your compression is that far apart and that low, it needs a new top end.

my buddy had this problem and his shift star came loose. also it could be worn out, shift shaft spring, or bent shift forks. may have to split er in 2.

im thinking your right on the money. i looked real close on the inside and cant see anything in that area but there is alot that look the same everywhere else in there. well if it is a crack and leaks, gives me a reason to get a nice aftermarket one.

it could be an imperfection, i cant really tell. i couldnt see anything of the inside at first glane though. i will look harder when i get back to the garage.

i tried to get a pic of it before the post but wouldnt show.

easy now. harmless question

i was givin a used clutch cover which i sand blasted and got ready to paint. i noticed what looks to be a hairline crack leading from the water pump toward the center of the clutch. its about a half inch long. i cant see it on the inside. think its salvagable or toss it? im guessing toss it.

if your swinger has play then it needs bearings. if not then just the roller.

many of the calipers are the same on different bikes. if it looks the same it will fit.