twizted269

as you have notice im sure is the bearings are on the outside so anywhere in between it will fit is fine. good luck.

get a new choke plunger or rebuild it. i had the same problem from it not sealing.

everything is fabricated. there will be alot of mods and you need the engine to map it all out. good luck.

also check the wires that run along the side of the air box. ive seen the exhaust melt those and ground losing spark.

this is a result of the oil in the fuel. sounds like the mix is rich and could use new packing in the silencers.

many time oem bolts will snap after the first torque. i never use the same bolts twice.

make sure none of the wires running to the cdi along the exhaust is melted. that will ground out and have no spark too.

ive got the same problem on one of mine. i beat the living piss out of it to straighted it up better with no luck at all. im sure it is tweaked a little. i know mine is. just something that youll have to learn to live with. let me know if you find a way to bend it back though.

i just zip tied piece of rubber roof around that part of the frame. no movement at all.

you can run differnt brands but as far as the number of that plug is because of the heat range. br8es is the recomended hear range for the stock motor. for instance, br7es is hotter i belive and br9es is colder. unless i said that backwords. anyways, that is the reasoning. any other numbered plugs could be running way too hot and burn holes in the pistons.

it really depends on how everything is set up and the mods. do some research and youll learn enough to feel safe.

if your patient youll find something. i found one for $70 basically in a box. after a week and around $400 in parts i running the shit out of it. keep looking.

are you sure you from wheels are straight? not the handle bars, the wheels. could be tie rod adjustments also.

first thing anyone will suggest is get a clymers manual for the bike. it will tell you exactly how to test it and where. also what wires are for what and so on. you may be able to find the info on here but the book is the way to go.

it depends on the bike. both of mine on fresh rebuilds sound like a a knock and they sounded louder when the were wore out. some bikes are louder some arent. its one of the mysteries of the twin two 2 stroke. could be piston slap from wear.

ive got the same problem with my plugs right now and have been told its from detonating. look up detonation on here for more info.

heres my setup. it seems to perform pretty good so far. any deep water will still get in but keeps most of the shit out.

over heating isnt from the bore size. whoever says so ist a dumb fuck. there are many more factors playing in this part. do some research on here with mods and match it up to what you have. you will be fine with .60.

ive found that they dont like water at all. both of mine will die right out untill dry when i hit a big puddle hard. they start right up and run fine when they are dry. they also have stock airboxes. may be electrical. try dielectric grease on everything to prevent shorting. i do this to the mud trucks also.

you can take it to any shop and they will measure what it is on check if it needs a bore. they should do it for free.

finally made it home. just put in some 22cc domes from a buddy brand new. compression is at 125psi, squish is 45 thousandths. havnt had a chance to run it yet due to weather though. main still at 300 with 30 mains and needle at middle setting. 93 oct. fuel as well. does everything seem to be in order here? im not sure where the squish should be at.

anyways, it all started out with my trip to texas to pick up the misses blazer. while we were down there i got the call that all my parts were in so naturally i was excited to get back to michigan to play with them. we made it to the indiana border and lost the rear axle bearing. what a pisser. finally found a car hauler to get home and fix it. now i can play with my baby again.

its probably the shifter seal. it can be replaced without any tear down. just remove stator cover and shift lever then pry out with screwdriver carefully and replace. simple fix.

it is possible for the bearing to fall out but only in pieces. i lost the upper rod bearing in my bike after the second tank on a fresh rebuild. shredded everything on that side. this time went with wiseco instead of the cheap shit.

i knocked the needles out and used a dremel with a small grinder point and cut a line through the sleeve so it would fold in on itself. i doesnt hurt if you nick the case a little. just clean up the mess real good.