twizted269

a local guy came by and picked up the whole bike. sorry to everyone i didnt get a chance to respnd to. thanks for the interest.

sorry none of that. ill respond to the pms when i get a chance and see what the demand for parts is. thanks to all.

parting out my 96. lots of aftermarket parts and good running engine. may need new crank seal but not sure. sat all year. mods in sig. let me know what you need and ill get a price or make an offer. can send pics to email.

hammer and bar from the inside out. there is a long bushing in there that should move out of the way with a little work.

will do. dont have a 280 right now so goin with the 290 tomarrow. thanks for the input.

i took a closer look after that post and kinda hard to see but looks to be a faint line at the deepest part of the ceramic and another dark black one in the middle of the ceramic. im assuming i should be looking at the faint one. so it would be lean if thats correct. seems to fowl plugs like crazy when i had 290 mains and 30 pilots. gonna try it again tomarrow.

carbs are stock. im runing 260 mains, 27.5 pilots, 2.5 turns out, and fatter needle set at third notch. not too sure of the needle size but helped it out alot. mix 32 to 1.

according to this im a little rich which i can deal with. now gotta work on the pilot circuit and get that right. thanks.

i agree. i just did it for shits and giggles to see what it read but dont know what it means yet. plugs burn dark black but i feel the main is too small. could be wrong though i guess.

no one?

i need some info on doing a plug chop since i cant find anything for shit on this new forumn. any help please. i did one and the ring showed up in the middle of the ceramic so i need to know what that indicates. thanks.

the lid is cut open on the top with an outewears filter covering the hole. i would say its pretty much the same as no lid or close to. there shouldnt be an air leak though. i did test for it. it all started when i realized the slides were in backwards and the jetting was way too rich to begin with. i had the stock needles in but it ran worse with them. just tried the others to see what happend. carbs cleaned several times, synced, and engine warmed up before lettin loose. tomarrow is planned for more work to figure it out.

ok so she is running rough again. changed all jetting and cant seem to figure it out. she stutters real bad until i get into the high r's. put in a fatter needle and helped alot but still does it. also when i first start it it revs like i pinned the throttle unless i pull the choke. after it runs for a min or 2 it idles normal. elevation is 500ft, jetting is 260 main and 27.5 pilot 1 and half turns out. rest of mods are in my sig. any ideas whats goin on here?

i know its not a crank issue. reeds are possible ill check them when i get a chance. i know it needs a new topend soon but it should still run. it ran great in the fall when winterized and now it wont run for shit so its gotta be a fuel or air problem.

everything stated above other than a leakdown test has bent done and are correct. will try the leakdown when i get a chance. also the choke side piston seems to move more than normal in the cylinder. it also took a few extra kicks to get the compression up than the other side. would that make a difference even though it stopped at 115 psi?

ill clean the carbs again just to make sure. pilots were clear but who knows what can get in there. its always hard to start. doesnt matter when or where.

k i have a stocker that wont fire right on the choke side. everything is stock except for the tors removal. i have checked compression at 115 both sides, checked all electrical, new gas, new plugs, cleaned carbs several times and still have the same issue. i have switched plug wires and that cylinder is still funky. it only fires everynow and again. keep in mind its all stock. 500ft elevation also. 32 to 1 mix. any ideas that i have overlooked here? thanks.

i had a similar problem which turned out to be the bushing on the idler gear. it was toast and the gear had alot of play.

both machines are 88 so im looking to see if one from say a 97 or newer would work if i swap out everything internally.

will the everything internally work in all years or is everything year specific? i know the gear ratios are different but will it all work if you swap everything over from another bike? also does anyone happen to know if its the same with the warrior? looking to rebuild transmissions in both bikes out of newer machines.

your getting spark and fuel. the only thing left for take off is air mixture. check over everything (even carbs) and make sure it is all set up right.

i mean the little nub on the inside of the barrel that keeps the slide straight. its part of the carb housing not the slide. when i pull the cable the slide twists in the bore and hangs up on the idle screw.

has anyone heard of the pin inside the carb that holds the slide straight as it moves, falling out or breaking? dont see how it could happen but it did. caused one narly crash at 6th wot!!!

you can also check the wires running along the airbox for grounding out on the pipe. i have seen them melt to the pipe and cause the same problem.

get new ones