jharader

Is there an update on the list of parts you need somewhere? ive got a lot of stock stuff taking up space in the garage or ill donate some change, gotta get payed for that first just went off the deep end on cascade

You have a manual? ya may need to adjust the fingers to where it grabs the shiftdrum. easy to do and helps with the neutral issue most of the time

dab nabiit if you lived closer and i would of seen it sooner

The reason for the plate is for the added throw of the piston, and to equal out the port timing. You say stock jugs. Are you implying no porting? if so you have to use the plate or your timing will be thrown off. Most guys will tell ya its better to have the jugs ported to match the crank. Adding the plate will raise the jugs and not require any head mods. So, no porting=plate=no head mods required.. porting to a 4mill crank you will have to have your head rechambered (your adding length to the throw and not the jugs but your timing will be correct without the plate)

Part numbers I buy all my oem parts from this site, lists everypart on the bike and numbers

as long as theres an orange flag at the top of the whip i dont think it matters (i bought a whip there for my gf that had an orange flag then a pink and white "dune princess" flag below that haha see sig) Ready to get my ride on :thumbsup:

head bolts fell off? were they torq'd down in the correct sequence? id say get 2 gaskets, put one on there ride her for a while, check compression. take it off and put it back on to check and see if you have some other problem, detonation maybe. never had one just fall off when it was torq'd correctly. odd

Ya get what you pay for... there cheap ass carbs thats for sure, cheaply made as well.. pot metal housing, slides are generic, they use 2 screws to hold the bowls on, bowl design sucks (tendency to run them dry) the fuel inlets are tiny, the cables they send suck ( constantly syncing the carbs) spring tension is bad (to much) if i were to rate them id give them a 4 of 10 i highly recomend if your looking to upgrade carbs use a genuine keihin or a mikuni, these carbs dont last long but for the price its very VERY tempting it sold me, i have sense went back to factory carbs on that bike. Its imo one of those pay now or pay later deals, might as well throw a couple hundred extra at a proven carb.That is why these lay amongst the table-o-shit parts

ill be there the 18th and 19th. skipping halloween got other plans. mudruns in ark city? badlands? where u from treybird? got a few bugs to work out on the bikes but well have at min 3 shees

Well i suppose its getting split open and a crank swap since i dont have a positive answer on this and dont feel like guess work with pistons and a shim, if in doubt rip it out lol thanks guys

i dont think its a stroker motor, appears factory to me. the spacer would be more then likely 2 mill or more right? its not that thick ill mic it and get back with better info. thanks

Going through a motor for a friend and ran into these, it has (1.00) stamped on the top, i dont have my bore gauges to check them (at work) ill mic the plate tommorow looks like .015 to .020, doesnt look like a wiseco to me what is it and why is this spacer on the bottom of the jugs? the jugs are stock no porting with a factory head that hasnt been shaved. vitos maybe? rod is stock length as well. tell me what ya think

Never knew they had a halloween event! damn ive been out of the loop, ill be there no doubt, atleast for that saturday :thumbsup:

Thanks, the previous owner obviously selected the wrong hangers mine set more forward... think i was losing a few ponies due to this to, ill go with that setup as well preciate it :thumbsup:

Gotta issue with the cpi's, my left header and silencer do not slip into eachother, rather stops about an inch short? is this normal on these pipes?? Just got back from sandfest, had a blast.. but every 10 minutes i was f'n with my exhaust clamp, the pipe is installed correctly lol almost seems like the previous owner cut it back some or something its not close at all making for a headache to seal with clamps other then factory rubber, also its a little offset, thus ripping the factory styl clamps.. should i order up some cascades? dont wanna spend the money if somebodies ran into this and solved it some other way, i dont think a cascade clamps going to be wide enough i have a set on the shearers n there rather narrow ill try to get a pic

ealry friday morning, got 4 shee's going now and a kx250, im hauling 3 shee's and the bike itll just be me and the girl tell late friday night had one guy bail on us cuz he's a WEINNY u know who u are lol I dont know where your refering to, but im no rook to the dunes thanks though. see yall there

I personally prefer some rain, last time i was out there it was 105, f*** that. maybe itll drive off a few people and i wont have to camp in bfe :biggrin: just came in from putting some trailtechs and some fronts on the gf's bike were ready to roll rain or shine :thumbsup:

www.farmandsandtoys.com you could always go the hydraulic route to but i have no experience with those

a good ez pull makes a night and day difference no doubt, we have used them on everything from the old school cr 250 to kx500's,zilla's to shee's, wont roll without one :thumbsup:

must be the lubetube thats got lefty broke in :shrug:

tick tock

Run heavy duty and use an ezpull perch, clutch will last longer and feel as if u have the light duties. light duties just dont seem to last, keep in mind its a spring, it sits there halfway compressed it WILL wear out quick, even quicker with a light duty resulting in premature slippage. my .02

yup

4 shee's, possibly 5... ready to roll :thumbsup:

couldnt tell ya but i love the name :biggrin: