Wildcardracing

They likely sold you standard mikuni pilot jets. The ones for the banshee stock carbs are banshee specific. Not sure why they built them that way.

I run a blaster axle on mine, but if I'm not mistaken the 660 axle is just about the same length wise and also bolts right in. I believe it is about 3.5 to 4 inches narrower.

That's extremely wide. I don't think it will work. I would be affraid of damage to the head and bottom end components when the ring decides to snag. I'm sure you'll get some more opinions on this, but I wouldn't trust that set of cylinders. I think they would be good candidates for some BB sleeves or the metal bin personally.

If that measurement is correct, that would be 85% of the bore. I would be interested to know how hard this set of cylinders would be on the piston/rings. I can only assume that the reliability would be very poor. I very rarely push exhaust ports to the full 70% and have only a couple of times gone to 72% on full drag setups. But, never even close to 85%

What is the bore of the cylinders? That measurement can't be right, the measurement needs to be done accross the widest part of the exhaust port on the diameter of the port not the radius if that makes any sense. I'm sure someone here might be able to exlpain better. I'm assuming you transfered the port to paper and laid it out flat to measure it, which will make the measurement much wider than it truely is. Wrap the paper around your piston and remeasure it. That will give you a much more accurate reading.

Blew a ring?? Usually when you run a bike lean it will cause the piston crown to melt or erode first. Too wide of exhaust port, too flat of exhuast port roof or one that has not been chamfered properly will cause your rings to snag and break. Uneaven exhaust port profile can cause the ring to beat the retaining pin as the ring is pushed uneavenly back into the groove. What did your piston crown and spark plug look like when you tore it down? Make sure you have a nice chamfer to the ports when it gets put back together as this will guide the ring into place and prevent snagging and also give better flow characteristics if done properly.

Same thing I was wondering, looks more than 70% just eyeballing it...but the transfers may have been widened quite a bit too. I would be most concerned about a short circuit of the incoming charge.

Your choice of pipes, carbs, headwork, reeds, gearing, transmission, tires ect. will all be considerations to discuss with whoever you have build the motor. I recommend saving the money and when you have decided on who is building it for you, discuss these things with them at that time....then begin to purchase. That will save you money in the long run because you won't end up buying a bunch of things you don't need.

What bore is it on?? You may want to get some plexiglass and cc your domes to make sure they are 22's

Do 4 heat cycles, then retorque the head and cylinders. Do a plug chop to verify jetting

I would say small bore for a non ported 421. If it's strictly drag then go with the oof's. The shearers are worth a bit more power, but at the expense of some midrange power.

It's really not that difficult to split the cases and do it the right way :thumbsup: If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it right the second time??

I would recommend some portwork to match your stroker setup. The porting will depend on your riding style. I would also recommend some suspension mods: A-arms, shocks, upgraded axle ect. But would need to know what type of riding it is used for to make specific recommendations.

If the quad is not for strickly drag I would recommend staying with your inframes, the mounts tend to break on the oofs if the terrain is rough. Other than that, I'd hit jeff up and see which set will work better for the porting he did for you.

the female thread needs to be 8mm 1.25 pitch

Your going to need to go with 21cc domes for pump fuel at sea level.

Time serts are the way to go, just make sure you get them drilled and tapped straight or you'll have problems.

For the riding style you have described I really don't think you would appreciate the cub. Depending on how fast the trails are the CPI's may or may not be the ideal pipe, they are a great mid to top pipe, but leave a little to be desired in the bottom for a tight trail application. I have built bikes with CPI's that see some fast trail use and people have loved them. You will have no problems schooling those raptors with the right work done.

You should replace all the engine seals while it's apart, especially the crank seals. Use threebond 1194 to reseal the case together. Then you will need to have a leak down test done to ensure there are no air leaks. Those are some extremely large jets!

21cc domes should do nicely. I would probably recommend and aggressive trail type port matched to some Pro-Circuits or FMF Fatties. +4 timing and ported stock reed cages with boyesen dual stage reeds. A pro flo filter setup with a k&n if it gets wet where you ride or dual pods if it's dry. If you want even more power then you could step up to a 4mm stroker and some 22cc stroker domes with all the same mods mentioned earlier. A couple of good insurance type mods would be a billet water pump impellor and a pancake bearing clutch adjuster. And if you're not opposed to splitting the cases I would highly recommend having your crankshaft trued and welded.

If you're at or near sea level, I would start at 310's and work down from there. You'll probably end up around 290's

You can get away with @ +4 on the timing and around 150psi of static compression on 91 octane. I would need to know your elevation to make a recommendation on the dome size to get you there. As far as your pipes ect, what type of riding do you use it for? ie: fast trails, technical trails, dunes, open fields ect. FMF fatties are a decent midrange pipe, the gnarly's are a good low end pipe. If you're wanting more power in the top end you could consider some t-5's or cpi's. Your portwork is all going to depend on the pipe and type of riding.

If the bike is bone stock(stock pipes, stock filter ect.) Then you should be somewhere around 210-220 on your main jet.

It's all going to depend on the portwork. But yes, with the right porting would build some nice power. Keep an eye on the for sale section, all of the parts you could want for the build will show up there from time to time.

Are you planning on doing your own port work? The floors need lowered @2mm to match the stroke. The amount they are raised will depend on what pipes you're running, your weight , elevation and purpose of the bike.