Wildcardracing

The boss intakes basically have the reed spacer built in. I don't know of any way to get it all to fit. Your best solution may be to run a different set of intakes like some UPR's. I can see why it all won't fit, but unfortunately I can't be of more help...sorry :shrug:

slobanshee, i have my cylinders bored .040" over w/a stage 3 race logic port job. the intakes were opened up big time (lowered/raised) and the exhaust port was widened/raised/reshaped. do you think it would be beneficial w/my type of port job? i wonder why the boost ports hurt your port work? i can't see how they should/could hurt ones top end. As I said a few posts ago, what works well with one builders work may not work as well with anothers. Try it for yourself. I didn't see a gain for what I was trying to achieve with those cylinders so I filled them in. They offered such minimal difference at the small size I cut them that I haven't bothered with them since. You will absolutely notice more gain/loss with correct/incorrect transfer port work.

10mil twister I about shit when I saw how hard that thing ran untuned..lol Thing looked scary, breaking up the whole damn way up the hill and still one of the fastest bikes I've witnessed out there.

He's got billet bowls and a pingel valve. The air temps were in the mid 50's. It was doing it at low speeds most of the time. We acctually switched to a dome with a more conservative squish band and it still did it. Backing out plugs all day and it never showed any damage to the piston or domes :shrug:

What's your exhaust port duration and what have you done with the transfer ports? The exhaust and intakes are the easiest to do, but the transfers really need reworked to get the most out of a port job.

Mine were slightly larger than 1/4", that was as big as I could go without adding material.

Glad to hear you got it all worked out and that there was no damage to the pistons. I still wouldn't recommend running 165psi on pumpgas, you will need at least 100 octane for that much compression.

I found that they did offer a minor low to mid power increase at the expense of some top end power with my portwork. I didn't however cut the added windows in the sleeve. I ended up filling them in and haven't messed with them since. I have found a lot more power playing with transfer durations and angles as well as experimenting with exhaust port shapes. Honestly to see any real gain with the boost ports on a stock cylinder setup I think you will have to have them welded so you can go larger and add the windows. My best advice is to try it for yourself and see if it works for you. What works with one builders portwork doesn't necissarily work with anothers.

If you are uncomfortable with the Wiseco pin bearings, then buy the new ones from Yamaha.

Your stator plate must not be seated properly in the case :shrug:

You could have your gears side-cut. Allows for more engagement area with your shift dogs.

I wouldn't rule out the water pump seal. There shouldn't have been any silicone on that tube, It is an o-ring seal where it goes into the water pump. That o-ring along with the clutch cover gasket should keep the coolant out of the transmission, if the o-ring failed the coolant would leak onto the upper case.

You should pick up that axle from prerunner, it's a hell of a deal with all that's included :thumbsup:

The 450 shouldn't be a problem if you can ride. What's done to the 700? When modded and tuned that is a lot of engine! Oh, and ditch the boost bottle before it causes you problems. :thumbsup:

I'll be at the mountain on Saturday.

I don't know about that MJ, I have 3 Tusk HD springs in mine and it's a very noticeable difference.

I wouldn't recommend pushing past 160psi with a non welded crank. But, it's a gamble at best. I've seen cranks slip on bikes with stock compression, although not as common.

LOL...Patience is a virtue some of us don't have

Don't you ever sleep....lol

The problem area on converting previously ported motors to 4mil specs is the transfer port timing. The exhuast port heights are very close to the same between 4mil long rods and stock stroke 110 rods as measured from the deck, not tdc. The transfer ports on the other hand don't get raised as much with the 4mil to achieve the same durations. Many of your trail ports can be redone to 4mil specs, more aggressive ports such as dune ports usually cannot. This all being figured on a -2mm deckheight running stroker domes and no plate.

When you pulled the spark plugs out, I suspect they looked grey/silver from the aluminum. Detonation will usually erode towards the exhaust port, so you may be able to get an idea of the piston condition by looking through the port with a flashlight.

Your v-blade paddles don't hook quite like a straight blade, so I can see 14/41 working for a second gear launch for you.

I've seen detonation punch a hole clear through a piston in less time. With those domes you're octane requirement would be at least 110 if not higher, so it was doing damage right from the time you started it.

Bingo Those 17's make way too much compression for 93 octane at your elevation. I would bet if you pull your top end apart that much of your piston crown has been eroded away by detonation. It is however very surprising that both cylinders are reading the same. Sorry :shrug:

Many of the autoparts stores will have ones for rent.