Wildcardracing

The Wiseco's that I'm sending back with your jugs are a much better piston.

PM sent :biggrin:

www.slcquadcustoms.com I can get them for you, very nice products at a great price

Come on guys, make some offers. If you're not interested please keep the negative comments to yourselves. This is a very nice bike that is only lacking a few things of being in perfect condition. This bike should easily be able to run mid 4's on a good 300' track. The porting is setup for dune drag and hill racing. It was setup to have a very broad power curve and could even be easily dune ridden. I stand behind all of my work, customer service on the motor work will be passed on the next owner as if they purchased it from me directly.

I only use Wiseco. But with all pistons it is a must to make sure the ports/port chamfers are symetrical so the piston is guided back into the ring land evenly so the alignment dowel doesn't get broken off. This is especially crucial on the exhaust port.

Any builder can match up the new sleeves, I wouldn't recommend paying what Vito's likely wants for that service.

Resleeving cylinders generally always requires matching up the ports after they are set. This is especially true if your cylinders were ported before the sleeve job. Get ahold of a builder and have it done.

Bump for a standup guy! A person would easily have $5000 wrapped up in buying a decent banshee and building one like this out of it. That pipe is not a big deal, seen it happen many times on dune draggers and hillshooters. The whoops are just too much for OOF's sometimes. Would cost about $125 to have CPI fix it. There is no neglect there, the rest of the bike is immaculate and very nicely built. Good luck on the sale.

If this is a once only trip and you rarely ride the sand go for the Kenda's, they are just ok and are cheap. But if you ride sand a few times a year go with the ITP's or sidewinders for general duning or the sand snakes for more hillclimbing/racing. Stay away from the Geko's, not too impressed with them.

You're in all our thoughts Jamey! You'd better get well soon, there's a lot of riding/hillclimbing to be done this year. -Brandon

You're in all our thoughts Jamey! I hope you get well very soon, there's a lot of riding/hillclimbing to be done this year. -Brandon

It's been done, I havent played with it but it is worth some power.

I'm interested in the flywheel an possibly the crank.

It will really start to affect your jetting when it causes your intakes to crack and let unmetered air in. Ditch the boost bottle and get yourself a stock crossover tube before you regret it.

Every builder does things a little different, doesn't necissarily make one right or one wrong. The intakes are the least crucial of the ports to modify in a banshee cylinder, you will notice very little difference between a set with no intake work and a set with a lot of intake work if all the other ports were the same. The exhaust and transfers are 90% of how the port will perform. As long as the builder got the numbers right, kept good symetry in the tranfers heights/angles, stayed within useable limits on exhaust width/roof radius and properly chamfered the ports it should perform well. It is fairly easy to make big power with banshee cylinders if you get your timing/angles right, the trick is being able to make big power over a broad power curve. If you rode it and you're satisfied that is all that matters.

Most people like to gear down a bit for St Anthony. I ran 14/40 my last trip there and got around just fine...but I'm turnin a bit more power.

I have a used G-Force in good condition I will sell for $170 shipped. PM me if you're interested.

Klotz supertechniplate works well.

Acctually, cylinders ported for a stock stroke crank may end up having too much transfer port duration if used with a 4mil....a spacer plate would only amplify this problem. It will all depend on how aggressively the transfer work was done. If they have too much transfer duration the bike will probably run decent in the low to mid but will fall on it's face in the upper rpms and not rev out to it's potential. As for the longrod, it's not easier on the crank bearings, it places less of a side-load on the piston skirts resulting in longer piston/bore life. Best to have your builder measure the transfer ports to see if a stroker will work with your current porting.

You can do it many different ways, my preferred method is to run a long rod crank with 795 series wiseco's and a cut head/cool head with stroker domes and no spacer plate. It is best to have it ported to match the increased stroke. You will only need to run the 795 pistons if it is a long rod(115mm) crank. The short rod strokers use standard 513 series banshee pistons. The cut head or stroker domes are an alternative to running the spacer plate and allow more flexibiltiy for porting and better reliability than the leak prone spacers. If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

Depending on the exhaust porting, 19's should put you right around 150psi give or take and should be safe for 91. So 18's should work for 100 mixed.

Buy/sell with confidence! Mike is a straight up guy to deal with.

Could be either. Do a choke test. Pull your choke out to 1/2 and see if the problem is worse or better. If it worsens then you are rich if it helps then you are lean.

Bump for a good guy to deal with.

380-390 mains??? I was running 340 mains at sea level on an aggresive dune port with CPI's, so 380's on a trail port with Pro-Circuits is HUGE!