WINDYCITYJOHN400

Shhhh he's got this.

The manual should include details on how to order a swingarm that's 10 pounds lighter with a Honda style carrier. Best mod ever! Well.....getting better front shocks is the best mod ever. Honda carrier is a close second.

Honestly….I would (in your situation) think about skipping the porting for now and just going with some Vito's Super Stock pistons. Check out this link for some details. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=130851&page=1 That combo feels VERY strong and is SERIOUSLY the Best Bang for the Buck of any build I've seen yet. Plus it will like the pipes you already have.

June Silverlake DUNE trip is coming up next. Are you still in for this trip? Do you still need paddles?

Do you live in Pennsylvania Japan?

A dealer would be lucky to correctly identify the model. You might spend 1/2 hour waiting as he looks up Blaster VIN info.

LOL (SpittingKlots04 asked for that) Now now......that was just me laying out a pattern I've noticed. I don't have any ill will with Turbo. We've ridden together and he's dyno'd his last combo with us. But info has been handed freely.....and ignored. Nobody has to take free advice.....but it's tough to sit back and watch a guy go thru way more than he should. I applaud him for being willing to learn. But some of these lessons can be learned VERBALLY rather than FINANCIALLY.

I can ride a Raptor 80 or Suzuki 230 shaft drive "just fine". Your last build with your DIY porting made less overall power than if you just stuck $200 Vito's Super Stock pistons in a stock cylinder. That motor ate itself and you spent (according to you) $1800 in upgrades (you could have a 421 Serval/Cub by now) Now you're onto cylinder/crank/piston/port job #2. You did a pretty aggressive exhaust port on a motor that will be running DNR/FORESTRY FRIENDLY trail pipes........ And JUST LIKE LAST YEAR, you're in a rush to get ready for a big ride. I'm noticing a trend......you aren't very receptive to advice.... and spend way more time thinking about the "right now" than picturing a good long term plan. Watching you find your own way......is like watching someone try to climb the BACK of very high extension ladder.

65HP is not too impressive? I beg to differ. I have a 370 longrod bike with dune port making 63HP and MOST people who throw a leg over it are pretty intimidated by it. People think 70HP is easy to hit, but making HP without loosing all the bottom end torque requires major effort. My 63 HP bike has broken a swingarm, blown out aftetmarket shocks, required heavier clutch springs, etc. I agree than upgrading a suspension is ALWAYS my first choice in mods. But the point is.....it's never Port-Pistons-GO! It's usually Port-Pistons-try to ride-log on for jetting advice-only upgrade the main jet-burn up a top end-learn to adjust pilot and needle-get better less restrictive filters-ride bike-change gearing but use old chain-break chain- whack cases......you get the point. Add into that a few weeks of coolhead questions, dome discussion, setting up a motor for a certian fuel, bolting parts together and never doing a leakdown test or a squish check. This site is FILLED with these hard luck stories from people who out built their knowledge pool and had to learn the hard way. Big picture.....if your budget is $500 and you spend $500.....don't be shocked when that upgrade requires another $200 very soon after in support parts.

A pile of money. LOL

Well......if it's ported and tuned well, you might find that the bike will dictate the remainder of the budget. Doubling your power WILL effect many of your supporting components. Old chains break and whack cases (SOOOO COMMON) gearing needs change, tires may need upgrading for better traction, clutches get hotter and swell under use necessitating an easily adjustable clutch lever, pressure plates will need stronger springs to hold the power and prevent a smoked clutch, extra force there can make worn clutch cables fail........ Well, ultimately it's a vicious cycle of chasing the latest weak link in the bike. Frank knows what he's talking about. He just jumped from a stock 87 with T-5 pipes to a full REDLINE 4mill with CPI's and trust me when I say.....he NEEDED lots of upgrades to handle the power. (I think he's MOST thankful he upgraded his front shocks to WORKS )

You didn't have any bottom end with the last motor. LOL (You forget…I've seen all your dyno curves.)

I'm thinking NO. (The pulse strength thru the carb has probably dropped from the large porting. So the jets aren't flowing as much fuel as before) In the end, hitting a big HP number with THAT kind of build just robbed your bottom end torque. Besides…..I smell a burndown coming.

You can't handle all this truth at once!

Could you explain how tuning ONE carb is "A Bitch"? We have a pair of matching 370 long rod motors in our group. One has Mikuni 28 flat slides. the other has a single 35 Airstriker on a Graydon intake. (The single carb actually is the bike that has the extra 1HP) They are within ONE HP of each other on the dyno and in the sand the bikes run neck and neck all day. (On dirt they are about the same in the trails too) FRANKTHETANK has ridden BOTH of them. He can tell you. It's simple. Start with a DEK needle and from there, tune the bike like it was a single cylinder.

Fully caged 85 Olds Cutlass with a VFN fiberglass front end and tail. Car has a Guldstrand performance cornering suspension on it and pulled 1.01G's on a skid pad. I built it to compete in both the original NMCA 10.5 street tire class as well as attempt to run the "Real Street Eliminator challenge" as well as local SCCA events and the original Power Tour runs. The car is basically a 10.20 1/4 mile Pro Touring car that is meant to be driven. (Prior to the Pro touring name even being thought up) Circa 1997

Car was built for the 10.5 tire class. The motor was a DRCE small block with digital fuel injection and a J-trim Vortex supercharger. It was built to run high 9's to low 10's in street trim. The nitrous was just to be used in combination with race fuel to hit the lowest number I could on a quality dragstrip surface. Motor made 750HP on pump gas and 900+ on race fuel with full boost. So 300HP of multi-stage engagement wasn't going to throw the whole combo outta whack. And don't be silly.....the wheelchair is rigged with an extra battery to run on 24volts instead of 12.

CLASSIC!

What?..... in my car?

No he's trolling. He rides air struts in sand. I on the other hand have actually OWNED both and can comment from experience. I have a bike with ELKAS as well as a WORKS dual rate bike. If the triple rates worked better.....I'd still have them.

Fresh shift forks FTW! LOL back to our trolling topic. GO!

I'm all for adding some friendly banter..... So.....remember the last time we met up in the dunes and chatted? Then we raced your amazing DM on alky against my 10 mill on vp110 and I won..... Good times.

LMAO Look who's getting all defensive now. The troll can't handle getting trolled back. You're having fun in a bunch of other posts playing shift fork troll. But I return serve and you get all reactionary. Troll on Shanye.

I never got the whole fixation with nitrous and Banshees. I have a dual system on my race car. (Done prior to progressive systems) It's a 100 shot in second gear, a 200 shot in third gear and both in forth for 300. But a banshee is a different animal. At the push of a button your entire set-up becomes wrong. Wrong gearing, wrong tire choice, wrong timing, wrong swingarm length. If you have the bike set-up perfect for the use of nitrous......then it's all wrong without it. For the cost of a nitrous kit, you could buy a much bigger and better motor and make big power all the time without a bottle and have a combo that works all the time. Besides, as with every form of racing.......if you beat a guy and use nitrous to do it......there is no glory because he will dismiss the loss because you ran a bottle.