WINDYCITYJOHN400

Strong words from a guy who used my paragraph for his dating profile. LOL

You keep saying that, but we keep going up there and everytime it's 8-10 wide racing. Hell Joe was out there with his Thundercat bike making passes, so I don't wanna hear anymore bullshit about "No place to drag" Ride or Pose......but don't blame the dust on your bike on puddles and weather. Anyone who's not sequestered at home with an unusually heavy menstrual cycle is welcome to join the fun. Those who are worried about getting their maxipads wet can stay home and watch Lifetime.

I don't know what the f*** you are all talking about.......... I was busting on deadbeat for his comments. And in a sarcastic way at that. Just funnin. Justin?.......don't know him.....wasn't addressing him. Carry on.

Original 2002 pistons just slappin away in there. I hopes who evers he stowed its from done took good care of it and sheeeeiiit.

Our crew is all in. Weather will be nice and cool. Perfect for making Horsepower!

Possum paintwork pics > Locogato concrete pics

It could mean he has breasts as well as a penis……. But I'm betting it just means he has both forms of override transmissions.

If it's a CUB cylinder, ditch those FMF FATTY'S. They are great pipes. But they ruin the power of a Cub. Even a small Cub.

Sturdy. No piston slap.

Oh Crap!... I just saw you listed it is a 4 mill CUB... FMF pipes have no business being used on a 4 mil cub. Neither do TommeyT-5's. Both of those pipes kill the power of a cub!

It's true that a drag pipe will give you more top end, but you shouldn't really feel a drop off like you are describing. I have bikes with Shearer, CPI and FMF's. My FMF bike could make 5-7 more HP ported. with a drag pipe (With DUNE port. Less gains with woods/trail/mx porting) but would lose the useable bottom end that I want for trail riding and would leave me shifting a lot more to keep it in the powerband. The FMF FATTY's can support up to 70HP while still having killer bottom end. Your powerband issue sounds like a different issue. I would suggest looking at jetting, dome shape, filter set-up or ignition issues as I think they are the more likely culprits. Not saying you won't like SB CPI's......but if you have some undiagnosed issues.....they will only carry over to your next set of pipes.

.......more interested in the POST prom pics.

But not about losing weight...............

When they arrive he will have ported away 5 HP so..........I think it's a loss either way. LOL

One thing at a time. Your pilot was stock on a built motor. You need a 27.5 minimum More likely 30's Get slides sync'd and idle adjusted, then work on airscrew adjustments.

I'll take a pair of full race cut front with tank cover. One in full polished and one full anodized blue. Hell throw in an anodized purple set too. While you're at it you can include my previously requested under seat storage box or secondary fuel tank. And full nerfs. LOL

Check your float levels. Make sure the line running from the bowls is free and able to flow. If it runs from the line to the bowls when the machine is just sitting......then you have a fuel needle issue.

X2 ^^^ Maier has always fit like shit. All the best makers in the aftermarket world have stopped. Lakers and Fullbore are not producing. So find some mint factory pieces....or pony up for somebody's used custom painted sets.

For what? If you are thinking of a tach for monitoring and shifting purposes. .....forget that idea.

Ok, didn't see your location. The raptor shock is longer and will lift the tail higher. If you can't find a banshee shock, then you can use a Raptor shock. Not optimum.....but if the situation requires it....then do what you have to do. But if you can find a good Banshee shock, or get a rebuild kit from someone....or even ship it to "House of Horsepower" for a rull revalve like I've done, you will end up happier.

A hard backload can bend a shift fork and cause your issues. You gotta pull in the clutch at the end of the run. If you backload it at high RPM'S/SPEED the forces on the forks are great.

The advantages of getting a Raptor 660 shock are that, in the event you should ever buy a Raptor 660...you will have a spare shock. The disadvantages of buying a Raptor 660 shock are as follows - It's a junk shock for a 660 and won't get better on a Banshee. The Banshee shock is actually a quality item, so switching to this oddball shit from a substandard handling quad will be a step down. Banshee shocks are plentiful so buying a 660 shock is foolhardy. Your current shock is blown out.....if you put ANY shock on your bike you will sense an improvement....so you will then walk around bragging about having a Raptor 660 shock on your Banshee....this will impress no one as it will be the dumbest and least impressive thing anyone has heard of.

So....BHP, did that kid ever come back and make right with the driveway repairs?

Yippy. Good to know.....