WINDYCITYJOHN400

X2 - I had every aluminum piece polished, then got it al Clear Ceramic coated to keep it that way. problem is, the ceramic coat doesn't hold up as well the sand as I had hoped. The motor still looks mint, but all the suspension and rolling stock is all frosted. So I'd vote CHROME! Everything else gets hand polished to maintain it, or alot of real nice looking powder coat.

I have run both the CPI in frames and the shearer in frames on mine. Your motor will like the Shearer small bores best. (I dyno'd the BB CPI's against the BB and SB Shearers and the SB Shearers made more overall torque and 14 more HP!) The only thing I had to do to get them to mount was put some spacers between the pipe mounting tabs and the pipe hanger mounts because the pipes needed to be rolled slightly out from the motor. Then I just run the clamp on "Sparky Spark arrestors".

Let me get this straight.........After everything that I personally said about the problems Trinity is having with the 4 mill cheetah motors......you still bought the kit? Please tell me you didn't find the "Trinity Blows" post till AFTER you bought the kit. Don't get too attached to those domes,,,, your going to need new ones.

BOOM! Try +4 and with 19cc domes you'll want 110 race gas. Try looking here. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=130851&st=0 It might answer your question. I'm going to say 60 at best.

Yeah, I'd say on a 35PWK you might be around 178/180/185 depending on the bike and elevations.

I'm not aware of all your details...but I've got a 4mill long rod with a 72mm piston swinging on that same type of rod and the weight isn't an issue. I've also got a stock stroke long rod motor with a 66.75 blaster piston too. Also the 4mill 65 bore 385 motor with the Vito's "Super Stock" piston that had 80 hours. Now if your running the Vito's stcok replacement piston.....I don't like those at all! But I can't say enough about the "Super Stock" pistons.

The Vito's Super Stock pistons have a lowerd top on the exhaust side. It drops the top edge of the piston closer to the top ring. (They have lowered the rings so it's not a big deal) The edge matches the exhaust port. The piston top edge is down 1.5mm. So when you use them, the motor acts as if you have raised the exhaust port 1.5mm. That is the same as many port jobs. It works great. But it doesn't have a window mod like this piston.

Yes, factory matched. The porting LOOKS the same from cylinder ot cylinder, but they are off just enought to run different. I'm 2 sizes leaner on my right then my left. Crank is true. I've tried different pipes and carbs and reeds. Finaly desided the motor runs fine, it just needs different jets per cylinder.

We have a medium ported 4 mill 65 bore (385 cc) bike making 65 HP on stock carbs. We also have a medium ported 370 making 60 with a single 36mm carb. Run what you want. It'll work fine. Try what you have and when your money tree comes back to life...then try whatever you want.

Box-O-Banshee = Need a Clymers manual. It'll save you alot of time and has some nice pics to help you out getting it all back together correctly.

That's funny right there. Well put.

The banshee requires one that's normaly open. You tie it into the wiring of the igniton kill that's normaly in the bar mount with the light switch. The Gunner style switch has a twin wire lead. You just unplug the black/white wire at the two barrel connectors, then plug the red wires from the tether switch into them. Then you run the solid black wire from the tether to a good ground. (I used the bolt from the coil mount under the tank.) then give it a test. The switch works by grounding the ignition when the tether is pulled. Unlike a battery powered machine in which you are killing power to the ignition. (It's best to warm the bike up a little first, so your not freaked out if your kicking a hard starting cold motor after you mess with the wiring. ) LOL. Sorry, forgot to tell you how to test it. So, if you have a multi-meter you can just ohm it out to see if it has continuity all the time or not. If you don't have one.... your going to have to get a little creative. You can try to run some small current through it. Try sectioning it into one wire leading to a speaker of a radio or use it to send power though itself to feed a flashlight bulb. Please don't use line voltage. LOL. A home stereo speaker is the easiest redneck tester. If the music stops when you pull the tether...it's normaly closed. If it starts when you pull it....it's normaly open.

OK, I'm going to speculate that your porting isn't matched side per side. I've had that on a few motors. One side might need the jet to be 1-2-3 sizes larger. You can still get a good looking piston top, and even a good plug. But you just might be detonating at a certain RPM. (You would have a better idea of how often your motor makes long pulls at high RPM's) But if the long hard runs are spread out far enough between your regular riding, you might be getting some damage to the bearings from detonation as the motor goes lean. Other than that....I go back to looking at the crank. You said it was a new crank each time, so that rules out a twisted out of phase crank causing the timing to go off. But I had a motor that would pass a leak test....untill you started it. The problem was the bottom end was assembled into cases that were too loose. So the bearings would have too much play in them. This would cause the crank to wobble and when it did, air would leak in through the crank seals. I'd look real close at clearances in the cases. Your issue might be related to a running motor air leak or from friction heat from misalignment. Also you might check your pipes. (not sure if you run a pipe with a spark arrester) but they can get clogged and hold heat in the cylinder. That can back too much heat into the motor and cause issues too. Have you inspected your filter situation? I had a friend who's K&N filter adapter was not sealed to his airbox well and dust and dirt got into the motor. 20 hours later the pistons were junk. I'm just throwing ideas out there for you. You'll have a better idea if any of them sound like they might fit your situation.

That's easy, you can weld a threaded rod coupling (AKA...A NUT) onto the top frame rail where the original was. Then rattle can the welded area. Once the plastic on...you'll almost never see the repair.

Asked and answered. He's got a PM. Thanks for the referal.

Seven Grand can buy you one hell of a machine. And it will be so modded with top quality parts, that you might only find 5-6 Yamaha parts on it. Why anyone would throw money away at a stock one is missed on me. But, that's how guys like me find used/built Banshees..........somebody has to pay the sticker.

Have you verified that the crank is not out of phase? (Could effect the timing in the right cylinder if the cranks not at 180 degrees from the other cylinder.) That's my first guess.

What don't you like? I wouldn't use their stock replacement piston. (It's junk.) But the super stock pistons have the lowered lip on the exhaust side and it really works well at simulating a basic port job. (It's not as good as a port job) But for only $200 it's something the average guy can do on the next rebuild and it will give a great power increase. We've had a solid 80 hours on them and they look good enough to go another 40+.

I just start with a dry towel and put the soft scrub on it like it was a thick liquid wax. Rub it in and around one side at a time then rise before it totally dries. (You could start with a test spot) Works GREAT for getting that light brown staining out of your white plastics after a muddy dirt or clay ride. Funny thing....after reading your question, I was pressure washing my machine and the water caught an edge on my factory rear stickers and they just flew off! LOL. I've got the same issue as you. Fresh shiny plastics burried under stickers, now along side older worn areas.....So we'll be doing the same project.

Once your motors strong enough...you'll need a +4 or +6 arm, and you'll stop dragging the grab bar on the street. Cause you'll find yourself going over backwards if your bar touches with that long of an arm. Besides..."Poppin' Wheelies" fits right in with Doughnuts as lame tricks you can do on ANY machine. Now if you can ride.....you punt that front end up there and keep it there through a few gear changes.

8/16/08 this was on P-L-A-N-E-T S-A-N-D........

Use some Soft Scrub with bleach. Rub it on straight like it was wax. Buff it in for a short while, then rinse. Keeps my white plastics looking mint for years!

Putting in a set of Vito's Super stock pistons and a 4 mill crank is your best bang for the buck. You'll be a 385 and with pipes, stock carbs and V-force 3 reeds...you'll hit 50+ HP. You can see 53 HP with all that, a cool head, and pump gas.

What date? I've been wanting to try that place.

I vote +6. That's the smallest arm I'll run on all my machines. I've got a +6 on a 370 long rod motor....so I'd say a Serval would want that at least.