WINDYCITYJOHN400

Hold on Nick......They did the same for me remember? The problem was, they just sent a new replacement with all the same problems as the first motor. So you put it in and next thing you know your back to square one. First question - What is different on this motor from the last? Dome shape? Squish? Compression? Cylinder to piston wall clearances? Second question - If they did do something different....are they going to make all the other kit motors this way from now on? Or are they just doing YOUR motor different? Third question - Are you going to dyno this motor and post the results? Please have Jeff document all your specs before you put it together and ride it. Jeff knows his stuff. Have him give it HIS blessings.

Read this past HQ post before you buy a "Cheap Swingarm" http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=138772&st=0

So.....will I have the place to myself? Come on...anybody going for a ride? Cool temps...high 70's to low 80's. Damian, you going to make it for Saturday?

You can do what I did and have your stuff "Clear Ceramic coated" You won't even know it's on there. It dosen't get yellow or go hazy. After Damian (sheefreak) polished all my stuff, I got it all Ceramic coated......For the motor pieces it worked great. You can clean the motor to a show finish with just a few squirts of glass cleaner.....but for the stuff that gets blasted by sand (My axle, hubs, brake calipers, etc.) it didn't last long. But I would do it again on the motor for sure. I did the cases, cylinders, head, clutch side cover, stator cover, carbs, gas cap, silencers, even my fullbore grill is looking good and it's in the front! But the stuff that's low and in the wash of sand from the tires......well...that's back to a raw look. You can coat your motor parts with any finish you want and it won't cause a heat issue. Our motors are LIQUID COOLED. What you do to the outside of the motor will not effect the cooling of the water, because that is done in the radiator. I don't think you can do the head and cylinder in chrome, but it's only because I don't think they can chrome it without messing up the O-ring/Gasket surfaces. But I'll say this....If you have a Nikasil lined cylinder....if you EVER send it to be redone, it will come back looking raw and new. So there is something to be said for leaving it as is. Here is a tip....I Ceramic Coated my "Spark'y" Spark arrestors and my silencer perforated tubes. Now my sparky's never clog, and I clean them with just a shot of brake cleaner. I don't even have to take them off the bike! Just a shot of cleaner in the tailpipe, and they are free flowing and shiny new looking. Plus, with the silencer tubes coated (I did the aluminum tubes and the perforated centers and we coated them inside and out) Now my silencers don't "Hold heat, or back heat into my motor"

Because "Powervalve400" is Jaymes the salesman from Trinity. You know... the guy who sells all those reliable, strong running 4 mill Cheetahs we've all been chatting about for years.

We're going up that weekend. Anyone thinking of joining in?

Will it come with front bearings? If so, I have a guy who needs it. So if you'll include the front needle bearings.....I'll call Dibs.

I "Was" an Amsoil user.....now I run the Torco GP-7. Burns way cleaner. Wouldn't have really seen the difference, till we started testing on the dyno. Was kind of funny when we were running my bike and I needed more fuel, so I just used a gallon of my friends VP110 40:1 Amsoil in place of my VP110 40:1 Torco. Lots more smoke than with the Torco. Torco=Good Stuff.

Really? As soon as they were a sponser, you pulled down the full year of rants about this very same motor...with the very same issues.

I thought I read a post about the OKO 30's having an issue with the fuel needle holes being so small that they limited fuel flow into the bowls..... Not 100% sure, but thought I'd throw it out there.

So July is coming up quick. Can we get a head count for who's in for the HQ July 15-16-17 dune trip? I'm "All In" with me and 8 others. We'll be in our usual spot down by the beach dragstrip. (North side @ 1/2 track) We're staying at the Silverlake Resort and Campground. I think the "West Michigan Sand Dragway" has a "Test & Tune" session on Friday night, so we might go make some passes Friday night (Action starts at 5:00pm)....if the drive is smooth and we make good time. But I'm sure it'll be a full day on the dunes for Saturday. Who's going?

All that money to plate a frame and they didn't bother to cut the unnecessary brackets like the old lower pipe mounts off the frame first? Wonder if they still are running the stock front brake lines in the frame tabs.

We've made 66+ HP on stock carbs. If a 450 with a pipe is beating you....you have bigger problems than your carb size. Time to check if the carbs are even opening all the way. I'm sure with the dune porting your motor would like some 28's or something in the 30-34 sizes. But you should be rocking that 450 as you are. I'm sure I could get that motor in the mid 60's at least. Something else is causing your loss. Find it before you add more changes to your set-up. (AKA - Don't tune to a problem.)

Another option we have had success with is to get the 4 mill crank now and a spacer plate. Run the Vito's Super Stock pistons because they simulate a port timing change and really get the motor running strong. (No it's not the same as a port job, but it's only $200 bucks!) We saw 47HP with factory reeds, head and carbs and just Pro Circuit pipes with that combo. Then later you can deside if you want to port your jugs or just get a Serval. You'll have the 4 mill crank, so a 421 Serval can be bought as a kit and you'll have 80+ HP and crazy torque. I'm sure budget will dictate the choices, but if you get the crank now....you have alot of options for the future.

You sure you can't make it a Saturday? It's always nice to have some time to recover/wash machines/unload truck before a work day. Sorry, it happens when you get old.

Yeah it's always the guy with 12 posts who is asking about HP numbers and wants to know what he can beat. Then by his 25th post, he's trading for a 4-stroke. Never raced the 12 speed....almost got the 10 speed running....traded for a BMX bike. Then they are gone.

No,No...there is one last chapter in this series. See this is about the time when the rookies post the following... Ok guys, I tried all your ideas and thanks to "Veteran member who this same thing happend to years ago" It's running great. Thanks dude for all your help. But I found a guy with a BMX bike and I'm trading for it. I think a BMX bike will work better for the kind of riding I do. Plus I'm tired of always having to work on my 10 speed. Here is the link for the bike on Ebay.....do you think I'm getting a good deal? http://cgi.ebay.com/old-school-stu-thompson-huffy-racing-bmx-bike-/300569696413?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45fb59989d

Ok guys, maybe a veteran here can help me out..... I put the larger sprocket on the front on my 10 speed... I got a twin set of water bottles mounted to the frame....I aired my tires up to 80. (Boy that was alot of pumping with my tire pump!) ...I got some synthetic chain lube...and I've shaved all my body hair. But after mounting a GPS on my bike and finding the tallest hill in town....I still couldn't get my GPS to read higher than 37MPH. ( I tried drafting a truck down the hill, but it was a UPS truck and it made 2 stops on that street so it didn't end well.) I was able to buff off all the brown paint on my bars, but I'm going to need a new front rim and tire.) Anyone have a spare front to sell? Would a smaller front tire make me more aerodynamic? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh I forgot to mention some of my other mods......I have a custom colored "Race Grips", I have green brake cables, An LED headlight, a 4 piece tool kit in my seat pack, Custom Monster paint and graphics and chrome 3 piece cranks. (Standard stroke) Would I see a big difference with "Stroker Cranks"? I was talking to a guy who said his older brother used to have a 10 speed built by Serinity with almost the same mods as mine, and it went 100MPH easy. He said I might have counterclockwise spokes in these rims. Does anyone have any 10 speed dyno or speed runs with the clockwise spokes? I really want to get to 100MPH. Do you think a 12 speed could beat me in a race with my mods?

The "Klim F4 helmet" has all the saftey ratings, 41 vents and flows enough air that they sell a cold weather liner for it. Here is the link. http://www.firstplaceparts.com/3006-SBU.html It can be found on close out for $229. I've never owned one or even tried one on. (I like to have it on my head before I pay for it, but I can't find a local retailer.) I know it's not a ringing endorsment.....but I hope it helps.

I've got a Huffy 10 speed just like yours with all the bolt-ons. I just got it. I've ridden before, but this is my first 10 speed. My friend has a Cannondale Mt. bike with 12 speeds.......Do you think he can beat me? What's the best Mod for a 10 speed? Will a bigger front sprocket make me faster? (I'd like to go 100 MPH.) Will running Helium in my tires make me faster? If I put 80 pound of air in my tires, do you think I can beat him in a race? Should I get longer stroker cranks? I'm on a budget. Would it help if I ran nitrous oxide? My friends girlfriend works in a dentist's office and I think I might be able to get some. Why can't I wheelie? Sound like alot of these posts?

The shift pro was designed to be used alone. When you do the modded shift star, your removing alot of the effort in the shift as it is. So with the shift star AND the shift pro, you can get a shift action so light...that a jump can downshift you. LOL. I got the Pro Mod tranny from Greg at WCR (That's an MX/Woods tranny, not an Override) and he said to just run the modded star and the shift pro, but not use the spring. The shift pro has a roller bearing on the arm that the factory unit doesn't have. It helps the star roll with less resistance. But if you do the shift pro and the modded star...the spring will be a little overkill. If your shift forks are in good shape and you run a fresh shift shaft along with a modded star and the shift pro arm.....you'll be very happy for a long while.

X2 on that! I've got the Razr2's on the front 22 X 7-10 and 20 X 11 - 10 shreaders on the rear. My friend has the Holeshots on the Front and the Razr2's 20 X 11 - 9 on the rear. My fronts work so much better than his that HE commented on it! Likewise, I noticed his Rear Razr 2's were a little better than my shreaders. If you don't need an MX tire and your looking for a good Woods/Trail/GNCC type combo......I'd recommend the Razr 2's all around in the 22 X 7 - 10 in front and the 20 X 11 - 9 for the rear. I got the new Douglas racing rolled lip rims. The lips are rolled in not out like the factory ones. They are strong and look great. You wouldn't think they are a rolled lip rim because the edge isn't round, it's flat. They were cheap and work great.

Yes. If you do the shift star mod, get the shift pro, but use the factory spring with it instead of the lighter one in the kit.

OK....why won't the youtube link show?

Here is why street bike motors belong on the street.