WINDYCITYJOHN400

What kind of riding will you be doing? What do you have as a budget? Motor Mods/Power? Start with a new swing arm and carrier. That's the best bang for the buck weight wise, plus it's easier to tighten chains. A Billet aluminum axle will shave 10 pounds...but will run you over $700, so you can see why we need to know if your just looking to sawzall some brackets or if your going to get hard core. LOL. Post a pic of the bike or list what you have as a starting point.

I wasn't implying that you can only get 80 hours out of a Vito's piston. I was just making a point that they are clearly not a 10 hour piston. (2-3 seasons on a Vito's piston I have done...not 7) But if you want to run the same piston for 7 years.....stay stock and don't worry about making more power. As you get into the 60's and 70's for HP, you'll find stuff naturally wears out faster. I'll re-ring a piston if compression drops by 25PSI. If the piston had no more machining grooves on it...I'll just change it.

What happened to turn it gay? I had seen some video of the place and the trails looked cool. The hillshoot was always lame vs. other areas of the country, but still not bad looking for what it was. I had it on my list of places to try......what happened?

It could happen once and a while. Somebody's stuff has to get done on time. What phone number is working for him these days?.................

Doesn't look like it. I was optimistic, but not reaching a ton of people. Plus money is very tight with a lot of people, so now might not be the best time. I had a custom piston maker who I was going to team up with to make custom pistons and domes for different cub combos. (Move pin height, gaskets, domes to change timings or squish.) The idea would be to make cubs into Servals or make Servals closer to cubs without having to mail cylinders around the country to builders. I was hoping it would give some new life to Cubs that people had, but wished they had Servals. Plus with all the custom pin height options, I was thinking some major builders might enjoy having an option for custom motor builds. Problem is it's $12,000 per piston mold. So I was going to just stick to the 68 bore Cub. I would have loved to do something in the stock piston style, but that would have broken the bank. I know the builders out there can do almost all the adjustments you can think of.....but I was hoping to offer something else for their playbook, plus be able to do some custom fitments for people on a budget. (AKA No more need for spacer plates.) I see SO MANY people who do rebuilds, but won't get any porting. It sounds cheap to just get $300-$400 in porting done. but when you add up the cost to ship the cylinders to and from....it can add up for the average young guy. I was thinking that something between an "As delivered cub build" and a "Full top builder port job build" might be an affordable option. Plus with all the interest in the Serval, I thought a custom kit to convert a Cub to a Serval (timing wise) or even doing something with slightly lower timings might be a nice option. (That way your not decking a cylinder to lower timings, then your stuck with it.) I'm sure I'll keep kicking the idea around. (I'm sure it's not an original thought) But with a forger 10 minuets from my house who has been pestering me to let him make me some pistons to try..... To bad he didn't mention the $12,000 start up mold till I toured the operation. I could still see doing it...but the return on the investment would be a long way out. I could do the same thing by using WSM to custom make me a piston, but I'd have people looking at internet prices and saying my piston costs were jacked not knowing about the additional costs to make then to the custom specs. Like they say - "Fast ain't cheap...and cheap ain't fast".......And CUSTOM... That's for deep pockets only. LOL.

Good call. Keep the original case studs, but use the Alloy Bolts kit for the rest of the build. You might find that the brake rotor bolts won't work and a few others here and there at your choice...but it's well worth switching the ones you can use over to the stainless. Just go buy a nice set of metric T-handle allens.

It's called being too lean. Not the pistons fault. Detonation will destroy every brand and style piston. When you are making 8 more HP, you have to feed it more fuel. This is why that style piston has gotten a bad rap. People drop them in like is a basic rebuild, yet don't re-jet. You need to go bigger on both your main and your pilot. Your making a lot more power and have to spend some time doing plug chops and tuning for the new set-up. You can't shave a head and install pistons that simulate porting and not spend some time starting with the motor jetted fat and working your way down from safe to a solid tune. I would have at least started with a 50 pilot/180 main/CEL or DEK needle, and I'm not sure what your kicking compression is, but with your mods I would be running 110 race gas or a 50/50 mix with premium. I'd also be running a #9 plug. Sorry to pile on......but I have LOTS of experience with these pistons on many peoples motors and can routinely get 80 hours out of them. I've run 2 into 1 intakes with them as well as twin 28's and stockers, and I've dyno tuned them all, so I think I'm pretty close on what these do to your overall power and how to jet them accordingly. You WILL make a solid 8 more HP with them alone.

I had one that I bought from a guy on Ebay. It worked great and the needle didn't bounce, but it was a cap tube style and the tube that went from the sensor to the gauge wasn't to sturdy. But I had it cut into my plastics and mounted like a dash mount gauge. Now that I found the digital model from KOSO....I don't mess with anything else.

X2 You all heard it....don't say you weren't warned. LOL Use it on ALL the nuts and bolts!

I've used the entire "ALLOY BOLTS" kit from Ebay. Worked very well. You might choose not to use a few of the fasteners...but overall, I do the full stainless bolt kit on every bike.

I have the exact same swing arm on my wife's bike. +6 Metal Tech. (Came with my +4 Metal Tech frame) Moved it to her bike when I got my Stellar +10 Custom arched! Both great brand swing arms. If you think the price is right.....grab it up! Good quality.

X2 K&N FTW! My slides are clean every time I inspect them. I even put a dab of white lithium grease on the inside edge of the filters to see if anything makes it into the filter. The grease always looks good as new.

You mix to the oils requirements. If the oils says to use it at 20:1...then mix it at 20:1. If the oil says it can be mixed at 40:1...then mix at 40:1. If it's Amsoil and it says you can mix it at 100:1.........I'd think about that first.

Anybody?

Yes. Arrows must line up or you lose travel of the arm. (The clutch shaft won't move as much, so clutch could drag.)

Nope...looking for cases to do a 10 mill cub. Thanks anyway.

The main goal is to get the coke into the threads. Filling the bearing won't do you any good. (unless it's rusted in too.) But try to get the threads in a bath of Coke. It'll eat it's way pretty good. I've done this MANY times over the years. You got about a 50/50 chance. As Grandpa always said "If you can't get it to loosen......tighten it!" That works too. All it has to do is move, then your golden. Good Luck.

X2 same low price as the other pistons being mentioned...but with the added plus of more power! Vito's FTW. (Unless your going to do some porting while your freshening the top end.)

Righty tighty- lefty loosy? (I'm sure your doing it right...i'm just playin') Try masking off the bottom of the opening with some good duck tape. Then fill the whole thing with Coke. Yes fresh carbonated Coke. It eats rust so well....you'll think twice about ever drinking it again. LOL Let it sit in the bearing/cup over night and then drain. Next fill with W-D 40. Come back in an hour and give it a try with a fresh breaker bar. Then let us know how it went.

My wife's bike is a 370 long rod motor with D+M dune port. It's making 63HP and with new FMF Fatty's with fresh packing it only hit 97. 105 is a huge step up in volume. I think you'll be fine. Toomey's have a different sound than FMF's, but their aren't significantly louder.

Yeah, without the springs your going to end up with some damage unless your just doing full drags......But I know you hill climb the snot out of your ride. So just get some fresh springs. (Tim at Titan Racing is making his own now.) You know Tim....give him a ring.

105 is very loud. Unless your running OOF drag pipes on a built motor....I think you'll be fine.

Looking for a nice set of cases trenched for a 10 mill crank. Anyone have a set without a chain whack?

Just go with David Allen Racings address. (Duneland) 1951 N. 24th ave Mears MI 49436

I know what I'm having printed on some shirts!