bansheesandrider

You need to be turning the tranny shaft while you are shifting. The way a Banshee tranny works, the gears will not move unless the dogs on the gears mesh properly and things have to be turning for that to happen. If you have any mechanical ability at all you are probably better off repairing what you have. If it is not shifting it is probably a bent or wore shift fork which is relatively cheap, plus if you tear it down and fix any other problems you find, then you know you have a good sound motor/tranny and not somebody else's discarded junk.

You can't replace the pin in a stock Banshee crank. it is cast as part of the web and then machined. The only way to replace it is to machine it out with a mill and then you need to come up with a pin.

My buddy put one on his Banshee, the clutch pull was sweet even with heavy duty springs in the clutch. But on the first ride the plastic hose got against his pipe and melted so we put the cable back on. Magura does make an optional hose that is made from braided stainless hose like they use on funny cars so I would step up to this if you are going to do it.

I would not put a used crank in my engine. There is no way to tell if it will last 15 minutes or 15 years. As far as rebuilding it, do you have a press, bearing seperator and the jigs needed to get it apart and back together again? And then you need the V blocks and dial indicator to get it in phase and running true and then a TIG welder to weld it up once everything is perfect. I have been using Twister for the last few cranks in my bikes and my friends bikes that I work on. The crank that is in my personal bike I got to watch Twister build it completly from scratch because it wasn't done when I went to pick it up, so I saw first hand how it was done and I know it was done right because I stood there and watched every step and saw all the dial indicator readings. It wasn't that I doubted their work, I just wanted to see how it was done. They made it look easy, but I wouldn't try it myself and I have everything I need to do it except the welder. Just my .02.

I agree that once you get up to about 16 feet or more that it should have tandem axles because there is a probability that it will be used for more than hauling ATVs. But for 14 foot or less and no more than three quads a single axle is perfectly acceptable. If the combine weight of the quads and trailer is 3500 pounds or less, a single axle trailer is perfectly fine regardless of how far you are going. A tandem axle trailer for that kind of weight is just unneccasary drag behind you.

There are multiple threads about this. Pull the stator cover and give everything in there an inspection: pickup coil gap, anything loose or damaged, spare parts flying around, flywheel loose or damaged, and maybe even pull the flywheel and inspect the key and look at the stator for damage. If everytrhing in the stator looks good, then you need to unplug the stator from the wire harness and ohm out the wires per the service manual. If the stator ohms OK, then you need to ohm the coil per the manual, EXCEPT when checking the secondary resistance you need to connect the meter to BOTH plug wires instead of 1 plug wire and the ground like the book says. Make sure the frame has no paint on it where the coil mounts as this is a ground. If all of this checks out OK then you need to find another CDI box to try as there is no way to actually test the CDI box except substitute another one. If you have to buy a CDI box I would get either an OEM Yamaha unit or a DYNA unit, everything else is junk.

There is no need for 2 axles to haul 1 dirt bike and 1 quad. A trailer with a 2000 pound axle and 14 or 15 inch wheels will be sufficent. Taller tires are more important than 2 axles because taller tires slow down the number of revolutions per mile and make the bearings last longer, by taller i mean like a normal car size tire instead of a little 8 or 10 inch trailer tire. Now, if you get a trailer for this combo, what happens when you get something different for rides. I have outgrown my second trailer that I custom built to haul my 3 quads,and now I need something that will haul 3 quads,my generator, firewood and my pickup bed box when I have the camper on the pickup. I would recomend the biggest trailer that you have room to store and vehicle to tow it with,with in reason.

It is called a carb cap lock. You will have to go to someone that sells OEM Yamaha parts(a dealer) as Yamahas are the only brand I have seen them on. I think Yamaha used them to counteract the weight of the big, heavy TORS cap. If you have eliminated the TORS from your carbs you probably don't need them.

Sounds like something is froze up in the caliper- either the piston or the slider pins. If the slider pins are froze to the caliper it will wear pads even if the piston is free.

How many wires are coming out of each Trail Tech, 1 or 2? If there is only 1 wire coming from the light then you should connect the black wire to the Trail Tech mounting bolt.

As far as I know, all Banshees were built in Japan and imported to the US, Canada, Australia and Europe.

I can't give you any measurements because I can't get to my bikes right now, but I know when Yamaha made the switch that they did NOT move the shock mount. Also, there are different numbers for the lower a arms but I cant see any difference in them. Yamaha added a tube farther back on the frame, moved the mount back and bolted on an a arm.You can do it however you like, but I would make it so it is compatible with a stock style arm so if you ever damage one you can find a replacemnt easily. That being said, I would grab some arms off Ebay to use to mock up the frame, then if you want to build your own arms afterwards they will match up to stock. That is, unless you are going for some custom long travel or wider or wheelbase changing arms.

It depends, you should be able to remove the clutch cover after draining the coolant and tranny oil. You can then remove the pressure plate by removing the 6 screws that hold the springs. Then if everything is OK you can pull the ball and pushrod out with a magnet. If the ball or pushrod has stuck itself to the transmission shaft, you may have to split the cases to drive them out and/or replace the shaft. You could try unhooking the cable from the arm and pushing the arm back away from the direction the cable pulls it, then, using a punch small enough to fit inside the shaft, see if you can knock the ball loose and pull it out with a magnet, just don't get to wild and drive it out the wrong side of the case or damage the arm.

If the clutch arm on top of the cases won't move, either you are not strong enough to overcome the springs in the clutch or you have welded the ball to the pushrod and probably the shaft also. Time to pull the clutch cover and pressure plate and inspect thimgs.

On the stock carbs that still have the TORS setup, the idle speed screws are on the top of the carb and the screws on the side of the carb are the idle AIR screw. When the TORS is removed, you drill and tap the side of the carb and install new idle speed screws there.

All years of Banshees have the same gears inside the motor, including the gears under the clutch cover. The only gearing change ever made to a Banshee was the sprockets for the chain. You can use one piece or the entire transmission in any year Banshee. That being said, it would be better to swap entire transmissions because each gear would be running against the same gear it is already wore to, same with the shift forks, shift drum, and the shift dogs on the gears. As for the Warrior, I don't know, but I would think you could probably swap entire transmissions just fine.

If the post that the arm pivots on is worn, you won't get the rebuild to last. I have found that you are better off buying a new kicker. As soon as they start rattling, you need to throw a rebuild kit at it, don't keep riding it with it rattling. Also, check the pinned threads on here, one of the guys had a mod that used different springs and maybe a bigger ball to repair this and make it last.

As far as I know the UFO stuff only comes in white, black, and blue. Yes, Maier changed their process a few years ago and it now looks as good as OEM. My wife wants a pink bike so I am going to be putting the Maier on it, but I am going with black Yamaha tank and radiator covers because I don't like the Maier radiator cover/grille. I have painted Yamaha radiator and tank covers on my bike and I won't do that again because the paint rubs off where the seat touches them. Painted plastic or fiberglass is fine on a drag bike, but for anything that could get scratched up, I would go with something that has color molded in. I am always not going through shit so I don't scratch or chip my paint. Also, I don't like the one piece fronts because I don't want to have to take off the whole front to work on things, with cut front fenders, I can pull the tank and radiator covers leaving the fenders in place and do most of the work I need to do on my bike.

I meant if it sticks out at the side, the center of the piston always sticks out on a Banshee. 5.58 and 5.51 what? centimeters? It should be in millimeters and it should be 54 mm if it is stock, a 4 mil will have a 58 mm stroke. Both sides should measure the same after subtracting the TDC measurement from the BDC measurement. Since you are getting two different measurements, it is sounding like you have a poorly made crank that has different strokes for each cylinder, and it may not even have a full 54mm stroke if that is the case. You should be using a depth gauge or a caliper with a depth measurer on it for the best accuracy, not a piece of wire and then measure the wire, that is a VERY inaccurate way of doing it. If it is a 4 mil stroker AND there is no spacer plate between the cases and the cylinder, then the edge of the piston should stick out of the cyl. 2mm if you have stock lenght rods, or 7mm if you have long rods and 513 series pistons. The 795 pistons are shorter to make up for the long rod, and then you would be back to it sticking out 2 mm with long rods and 795 pistons, this is at the edge of the pistons.

The cheapest place I know of is Apache Motorcycles in Pheonix, AZ, they used to be Yamaha Suzuki of Arizona, but they got bought out or renamed or bankruptcy or something. They were gone for awhile but are back now as Apache Motorcycles. Another place is Cheap Cycle Parts, they are within pennies of each other. I was trying to build a Banshee from a bare 97 frame also, when I lost my job last March, so it has slowed down considerably. No way will I part with the quads though. Good luck.

You don't need them with an aftermarket clutch. Yamaha put them in there so when you pull the clutch lever, the clutch plates will seperate better and not drag.

I wouldn't in your situation. I am 220 now, down from 250, and I did not do mine for that reason. A lightened flywheel will rev faster, but it will be easier to kill the engine if it gets lugged down.

You need to measure from the deck to the piston at TDC and then measure again at BDC and the subtrtact the TDC from the BDC. If at TDC, the piston sticks out of the cylinder, as a stroker will do, you need to ADD that measurment to the BDC. Also, try measuring in millimeters so you don't have to convert it.

Yamaha recomends 24:1 with Yamalube and 20:1 with any thing else, but that is just covering their ass during the warranty period. If you are using a GOOD two stroke oil, itis usually recomended to go from 32 to 50:1 with some synthetics even higher. I run Klotz R50 at40:1 for over 18 years and have had zero problems.

Why do you want to make your pipes louder? Loud pipes= less places for us to ride. Just because the bike is louder does not mean it is faster, hell I have seen some very loud bikes that were slower than shit.