bansheesandrider

That carrier looks just like the tapered bearing carrier I have on my bike, except mine has Banshee engraved on it. Mine came from a place called Alloy Specialties, they were a shop in Battle Ground, WA, and I bought mine at the third Dunefest held at Winchester Bay. I think they have gone out of business because I can't find anything for them on the web, I was trying to get some extra seals and bearings to have on hand and did not want to take apart what I have to get part numbers. But that swingarm is sweet and I want one like it.

Wisecos are the best piston in my opinion. I recomend getting your pistons from whoever is doing your bore job, that way it is bored for the correct clearances, and make sure they are knowledgable about Wisecos and the proper way to measure clearances. I prefer to use stock gaskets but alot of guys on here say Cometic. And I always replace the wrist pin bearings, it is cheap insurance.

If you switch the carbs around, how are you going to hook up the choke hose that goes between the carbs? If it is not hooked up, it is going to create a whole new set of problems. Ceck the compression, and then take your carbs apart one at a time so you don't mix up the float bowls, and give them a good cleaning by removing all the jets and floats, etc. and washing all passages with cleaner and blowing out with air. While the carbs are off you might want to look at your reeds also. You might also try switching your plug wires from side to side, if this changes it, look at your plug caps. If none of this helps, then I would get a leakdown tester and look for leaks, especailly around the crank seals, you will have to pull the clutch cover to check the right side crank seal, but that is the side that is smoking so it could be sucking oil out of the transmission.

Is ther going to be a BansheeHQ ride in Feb?

If you want to be able to slide around you need straight paddles like a Hauler. If you want to carve through the corners, then ytou want a "V" paddle like sand stars or sand skate2s. I cant recomend a size or number of paddles without knowing your setup.

I am running a Toomey clutch with 3 Toomey springs and 3 stock springs, it has been in there since about 1995 and shows no wear. Before that I ran a stock clutch with 3 Toomey springs and 3 stock springs, when I took it out it was in good shape, but I had bought the Toomey so I put it in and carry the stocker for a spare. Both of the Banshees I have had for my wife, I just put in 3 Toomey springs and hve no problems with them. If your stock clutch is still in good shape, then I would throw some heavier springs in it when you pipe it and run it.

Is your float level set properly? Do you have a good float needle and seat? The needle should have a smooth and flat taper wth no rings or bumps on it, the O ring on the outside of the seat should not be hard or cracked. The seat should not just fall out of the carb when you turn it over, when installing the seat in the carb it should be a snug fit so it does not leak around the outside of the seat between it and the carb. If all of this is correct, then recheck your gasket and carb for inperfection, do not use any type of sealant on these gaskets as it will make jet changes and cleaning difficult.

I don't know why vendors put jets in a rebuild kit. Jets are not a wear part, they are a tuning part. Once you have jetted your bike, the only reason to change jets is for weather conditions that change or some other change to your bike, NOT because they have been in there awhile and might be wore out. I think they put them in there so they can jack up the price of the kit. My point here is that if your bike was properly jetted before the carb rebuild you should have left those jets in it.

I don't know which one will make more or better power. But the Super Cub is a Nikasil cylinder whish means if the bore gets screwed up you will have to send it out to be recoated to the cost of about $400 for both holes. The Twister cylinder is an iron sleeve which can be bored out when it gets damaged and it will only cost about $80-$100 for the bore job. Some will argue that the Nikasil is harder and less likely to get damaged, but sooner or later it will get damaged and you can bore the Twister 4-5 times for the same money as once on the Nikasil. This is just my opinion and most guys on here will still say a Nikasil cylinder is better, wether it is because they run harder or they just prefer the Nikasil over boring iron sleeves.

Didn't you start a thread with the same title yesterday and get several answers to it?

My bike came with 200s in it and there was a plastic bag that had 190s,210s,220s,and 230s, they were all like that. It could be Yamaha is buying knock off jets because they are cheaper.

A billet plate is better than a cast one because some guys have problems with the cast thread stripping or pulling out. You can get the billet Chariot plate on Ebay for $30.

This is just my expierence, but every time I have flipped my reeds over, they have cracked and broke of shortly afterwards.

What year Banshee is it? Does it have a wire going into the clutch lever/ parking brake? if it does, try unplugging that wire and see how it runs.

I think that the jets that come through the Yamaha parts system have the RD on them as I have some that actually came with my bike new that are that way.

You disable the TORS system because it is very problematic, it can cause the bike not to run. You disable it by unplugging the little black box to the left of the coil under the gas tank. You remove the TORS system because it is heavy and a bunch of clutter that makes working on your carbs more difficult. You remove it by buying a removal kit that has neww carb tops, a new throttle cable for either the stock thumb throttle or a twist throttle, and idle screws that you have to drill and tap the carb body to install.

It depends on who does it and what kind of port job it is, probably between $200 and $600 US plus shipping. You need to make sure the port job is matched to your riding style, where you ride and the other mods you have done or are going to do. Remember, you grt what you pay for when it comes to porting and UPS and FedEx ship worldwide. You can also increase your compression by milling your stock head or replacing it with a Cool Head by Noss, ModQuad or several others. You can bump your timing to +4 by either slotting the factory stator plate or buying a plate from Chariot Performance on Ebay, just don't get a cast plate from Ricky Stator. You can also put Boyesen reeds on the stock cages or replace the cages with V Force 3s. If money is an issue, then get your sytock head cut, slot your stator plate yourself and put some Boyesen reeds on your stock cages, you should be able to do this for about $150. If money is no object, then buy a cool head, stator plate and V force 3 reeds, this will probably be about $600. I would do these mods before you port it and they will compliment the porting when you get it done.They are external mods and then ride it until it needs to a top end rebuild and then you can pull your cylinders, have them ported and bored and put in the Wiseco pistons that you want. You should always rejet whenever you modify anything on the motor, exhaust or fuel system. You should not be afraid of working on your bike, get a GOOD shop manual and follow it. That way when it breaks down in the middle of nowhere, you will be able to figure it out and get back home.

Do you still have the TORS system on it and hooked up? Did you check for air leaks? Did you get the float bowls mixd up when you had the carbs apart?

Also, if they are to tight you will have to file them. When filing them , file from the outside in, run the file from the surface that touches the cylinder towards the center of the ring. This prevents any burrs that could scratch the cylinder.

X2, Iset mine at .012 and have never had a problem snagging rings, Also, make sure your ports are chamfered.

If it is an abused quad, you just need to bite the bullet and do a complete teardown and rebuild. Replace all the bearings in the engine and tranny, get a new or rebuilt crank, bore it and get new pistons, make sure the clutch, gears, shafts, shift forks are all in good shape. Replace anything that looks questionable and make sure all the threads in the cases and covers are good, Heli Coil them if needed. Then put it all together by the book with good quality gaskets and seals.

We need more info, what has been done to it? Has the TORS been removed properly? If the TORS carb tops have been removed, then have the carbs been drilled and tapped for idle screws on the carb body? If all of this was done properly, then is the rubber hose that connects the carbs by the choke in place? Do the carbs have the correct float bowls on them? The left bowl is different than the right bowl because of the way the choke works. Have the carbs been cleaned recently or are they full of trash and gunk? Are you properly jetted on all circuits of the carb? Do you have good strong spark? Check on this stuff and get back to us.

I don't consider Wiseco pistons to be a high horsepower mod, they are a forged piston which is more reliable than the stock cast piston. Aside from the lighter weight and the bigger port windows in the skirt, they are a stock replacement. If you want more power you need to add pipes first, then add a better breathing air filter( do away with the air box if you don't ride in mud or water). Next increase your compression by either cutting the stock head or getting a Cool Head with domes that are smaller than stock. The next step would be bump your timing. The last Bolt on mod would be better reeds and/or reed cages. From there you are looking at porting and/or a 4 mil crank, but you need to decide about the 4 mil before you port because, depending on the port job, once it is ported you won't be able to port it for the 4 mil. Of course, once you do any mod at all you will need to jet it for the mod.

I run Cascade also, but there is also UPP.

The now defunct JD Racing was working on mechanical fuel injection on their monoblock 565 motors back in the 90s, but it was very tempermental.