bansheesandrider

You can also co to DuneGuide.com, it has info for every dune riding area there is.

The only thing a genuine Hot Rods crank has over a stock crank that has been rebuilt with Hot Rods rod kits and then trued and welded is that the crank pin is replaceable so when it gets scored up, you can replace the pin easily instead of having to cut the pin out of the stock crank. This is assuming you are comparing stock stroke/stock length rod cranks.The only other advantage is that you might possibly be able to buy a Hot Rods crank cheaper than having a stocker rebuilt and trued & welded. But you may still need to have the Hot Rods crank trued & welded also before it is ready to run, depending on who you buy it from. AND some of the craks on Ebay SAY they are Hot Rods , BUT when it arrives it is NOT a genuine Hot Rods crank, even though that is what is pictured in the auction.

X2 If it sits low you can adjust the spring preload and see if that helps. Also, when I got my Works shocks they were very stiff and I was going to send them back to be resprung. I was told that they would just change the amount of nitrogen in them and that I should give them a chance to break in and see where the were after that, if I wanted them softer my local shop said they could bleed off some nitrogen. In your case you could find somebody local that does shock work and see if they will bump up the nitrogen.

Yes the water jackets are smaller on an RZ cylinder,there is a powervalve sitting where part of the water jacket is on the Banshee cylinder. If you don't believe me, measure out how much liquid it take to fill a Banshee cylinder and then try to put that much liquid in a RZ cylinder. I have never done that but I got my information straight from Yamaha.

Rz engines have powervalve cylinders, a DC electrical system, and a WIDE RATIO transmission. Banshee cylinders have a bigger water jacket for better cooling because they don't have a powervalve, a Banshee electrical system is AC and Banshees have a CLOSE RATIO transmission. There are some other differences such as the RZ has a speedo drive and an oil injector pump, etc. Unless you are running on the asphalt stay with the close ratio tranny.As long as you use the complete gear set, the Banshee and RZ trannys are interchangeable.

X2

I don't know of a Banshee specific cover, even the one on Yamaha's website fits multiple bikes. It is in the accessories part of the website, and I don't remember if it comes in black. I got some from Dennis Kirk that were on closeout for $12 a piece, they have elastic around the bottom and fit pretty good. The only problem with them is you can't roll the bike with it pulled down around the tires. There are several out there that come in different sizes, you just have to figure out what size you need.

I forgot to say that I don't have a pancake bearing in any of my bikes and have never welded a clutch ball. But, I am going to put pancake bearings in my next builld to be safe.

The big filters will flow more air which you may or may not need depending on your setup. The big filters will also go longer between cleanings. The small filters will be less weight hanging on your carbs and will stay on better and not cause any air leaks in your intake tract.

I run 13/40 gearing with a +4 swingarm, my chain is either 112 or 116 links, I can't remember. I just buy a 120 link chain, wrap it around the sprockets and cut it to the length I need. I can't give you a recomendation for gearing. But running alky on an all around bike is a pain in the ass- you only get 1/2 the fuel mileage of gas, you have to drain and purge the fuel system if you are going to let it sit very long and your premix oil needs to be compatible with alky.

I have never had a whole petal break off, but the pieces that have broken off of mine have just ran through the engine and out the pipe no problem.

Use Klotz Flex Drive 30. It is what I use and me bike shifts the best with it and there is no metal in the oil when I drain it ou. I have used motor oil, ATF type F and the BelRay GearSaver and Honda tranny oils and the Klotz works the best. When I used motor oil and ATF my bike did not shift very good and when I drained it there was glitter in the oil, I split the cases and could find nothing wrong, put it back together and it still would do it.. I tried the gearsaver and it was OK, but my dealer quit carrying it. I then tried the Honda oil and my bike shifted like crap with it. I was then told about Klotz and have been using it ever since. I have nevere lost a bearing or gear because of oil aand I have never welded a cluthball in any of my bikes either.

I run stock width arms up front and a wider axle in the rear with a +4 swingarm. This gives me all the stability I need to sidehill anything that is rideable in the Oregon Dunes. Wider A arms might give you more suspension travel in front but my stock width arms with my Works shocks work just fine for me. If you are going to haul ass through the whoops, your front tires should just be skimming the tops of the whoops anyways.

I am using Armadillo arms on my ground up build and they fit fine without reaming.

Make sure you are using a quality clamp, not the stockers. Cascade used to sell some clampsthat did a real good job, I don't know if they still carry them or not. You might also try roughing up the inside of the filter with some sandpaper.

DON"T WASTE YOUR TIME WITH THE T4s. They were such a crappy pipe that Toomey had an upgrade for them- send your old T4s and $100 to them and they would send you a brand new set of T5s.

Did you check the pickup coil gap?

I use 3M weatherstripping cement. put a coat on the bars and put a little bit inside the grips. As it starts to tack up, put just a little bit of straight gas, no premix oil in it, and slide the grips on a position them where you want them. Let them sit at least a day, preferably 2, and you should be good to go. You could probably also use paint thinner or acetone instead of gas, but I read about this method when I was a kid riding dirt bikes from Dirt Bike magazine and have been doing it this way for over 30 years.

Banshee cranks are actually made from 5 seperate pieces- the center pin, 2 inner wheels that have the rod pins on them and 2 outer wheels that have the outer bearings and the journals to mount the flywheel and primary drive gears on. It is all pressed together and held in place by friction/interference fit.When you start increasing the power of you Banshee, it generates forces that overcome the press fit and the crank starts spreading. Yamaha says that there is only a problem with "modified" bikes and therefore never did anything to rectify it. I lost my crank when the bike had nothing more done to it than pipes and paddles, Yamaha considers paddles a modification. I have never lapped or seated a flywheel and I have never had one come loose. I install it and torque it to factory spec with blue Loctite and it has never come loose.If the crank runout is in spec, the flywheel and crank are not damaged from being run loose, and the flywheel is properly tightened, there should be no problems. If a crank has started spreading, there is no way to see if the thrust washers or crank pins have been damaged without taking it apart for inspection. If it is apart to inspect, you might as well put new rod and main bearing on it. It is far cheaper to rebuild it while it is apart the first time, than it is to repair all the damage after it lets go- it cost me over $700 to fix mine when my crank let go. And that was using a set of takeout pistons and not boring it, I had to be cheap because I was unemployed at the time, so I made sure that everything in the bottom end was in good shape so I could just pull the jugs and do a topend to get every thing in good shape once I went back to work.

No, I replaced the clutch basket, the crank gear, the kick idler gear, and the water pump gear which had broken into multiple peices. To replace the basket with a billet one, once you have it out of the engine you will have to drill or grind the stock "rivets" from the back side, the rivets are actually material cast into the stock basket and then peened after the gear is installed. Once the rivets are gone pull the gear off and install it on the new basket with the cushions and hardware that came with it per the instructions. Then install the basket back on the engine per the sevice manual.

To replace the ball joints on all Banshee stock control arms you have to replace them. If you have to buy new control arms, buy aftermarket ones that have replaceable ball joints so the next time you just have to get the ball joints and not the whole arm.

It looks like too much side play to me. You have 2 choices-rebuild what you have or purchase a new crank. it will cost you about $350 to have it rebuilt with new rod kits and new main bearings and having it trued and welded. A new stock stroke, stock length rod crank will cost you about the same, but it will not be welded. I have Twister Crankshafts do all my crank work and boring also.

second question is that petcock on the bottom of the fuel tank... mine has a res (reserve), off, and on... i only get fuel if its in the res position.... not any of the others. WTF!!! do you guys have res?

The last factory basket that I bought came with the gear on it- it is the only way you can get a gear the last time I checked.31K-16150-10-00 is supposed to be a clutch basket with a driven gear on it. I had to buy one because my kick idler gear snap ring came off and ran through ALL of my primary drive damaging all the gears.

Turning reeds over is a bad idea. Every time I have tried it, the reeds have broke off after a very short time. It happened with a set of stock reeds and also a set of Boyesens.