bansheesandrider

First, have you pulled the pipes and made sure some critter is not calling them home? Second, when you cleaned the carbs, did you keep the float bowls with the correct carb? The bowl with the brass BB goes to the left carb. Always make sure the choke tube gets hooked up correctly when you put them back on. As for your jets= if you are staying all stock you should be really close with what you have. Jetting is NOT a performance mod, it IS a tuning of your motor based on the amount of airflow going through it. It is affected by carbs,reeds, porting, pipes, intakes and filters, temperature, elevation, atmospheric pressure,and to some degree the compression and timing. Timing will affect it because timing affect how complete your burn is and depending on that you may need to adjust your jetting. Finally, if your compression tester had the check valve right at the end and the adapter thread fill the spark plug hole threads then you are probably pretty close and it is time for a top end.

Stock rear sprocket should be a 41 tooth so your gearing is 3.1538. The 14/45 gearing will give you a ratio of 3.2142. If you multiply 13 by 3.2142 you will find that you could just put a 42 rear on and have vitually the same ratio without having to buy 2 sprockets and a chain. Your existing chain should have enough slack to let you go 1 bigger in the rear, especially since you have gone 1 smaller in the front.

I am not saying that running ATF will make your clutch ball weld if you don't have a pancake bearing. What I am saying is that almost everybody that welds a clutch ball is running ATF without a pancake bearing. And as I said before, I have been running Klotz Flex Drive 30 for 17 years in at least 7 different Banshees and 2 Blasters, none with a pancake bearing, and I have never welded a clutch ball in ANY of them, nor have I lost any bearings, gears, shift forks or clutches. And at least 4 of those bike were ridden by girls that like to pull in the clutch and rev the motor as they coast down hills.

Unless you have a pancake bearing, this is a welded clutch ball waiting to happen! I recomend Klotz Flex Drive 30. Never lost a bearing, gear, shift fork, clutch, or had a clutch ball weld to the pushrod in 17 years of using it in a total of 7 Banshees and 2 Blasters.

If it is leaking from the overflow it means the needle valve and seat are not closing off the fuel from the tank. Your jet needle has no affect on the flow of fuel from the tank. 2 different things. You need to replace the needle valve and seat, yes they are expensive. Also, make sure the O ring on the outside of the seat is in good shape- soft and no tears or abrasions. And make sure you set your float height properly.

Do you have the tension rods properly installed under the engine?

Been running the R50 for 17 years with NO problems. Used to run Benol, but the wife's bike carboned up because she did not ride it hard enough. I would also recomend the Klotz Flex Drive 30 tranny oil. Never lost a bearing, gear, clutch, shift fork, or welded a clutch ball with it(no pancake).

If you have them, run 'em. But if you are buying them, DON'T!!!!!!!!!!!! There are much better pipes out there for the money and I would not support Harry Mc Dermott's circus if I can avoid it. It would depend on where you ride and what your future mods are going to be, before a recomendation for anything else can be made.

T5s come 2 ways- either bare metal or chromed. So yours probably came bare and were painted black by the installer.First thing you need to buy is a service manual- I prefer the factory manual, but the Clymers is less expensive. As for the topend- pull the cylinders and send them to a reutable ATV machine shop to be measured and/or bored. Most people on here say to use a sponsor, but I prefer not to have to ship them and try to go with a local shop. Have the shop get you a WISECO top end kit and then bore it to fit.

NO, not nearly the life of a steel sprocket. When I ran aluminum, I replaced sprockets and chain EVERY year. Since I went back to steel, they last about 4 times as long.

The ITP Sand Stars double rib will out cut a Razor back any day. I switched from Razors to Sand Stars and my bike turns WAY BETTER and goes exactly where I point it. They might weigh a little more but are far more durable and less money than Razors.

While there was white tank covers on the 05 and 06 models, to my knowledge there was never a white radiator cover from the factory on any year in the USA. And the white on the 05 & 06 may not match your 98 white.

You are going to have to split the cases, it sounds like the pushrod welded to the clutch arm. If that is the problem, the shaft will stay with the upper case when it comes apart, and yes it can be split with the arm still in the case. When you get it fixed you can either put in a pancake bearing OR switch to Klotz Flex Drive 30 tranny oil. I have ran this in all my Banshees and Blasters includung the wife's and kid's bikes for about 20 years now. We have NEVER lost a gear, bearing, clutch, or welded a clutch ball with it, even on the girl's bikes that the coast and idle with the clutch lever pulled in. NONE of our bikes have pancake bearings. It isn't cheap, but you get what you pay for.

When you flush it use a clear or light color fluid and drain it into a pan so you can see what you are getting out of the lower end. FYI, i flushed a melted piston out of the bottom end of a YZ100 and it run for years after that. Also, on a long weekend at the dunes we had to do a Banshee topend and we just flushed the cases and it was fine.

The problem with using mixed gas is that you will still have oil in the crankcase that will cause the sand to stick the cases, crank, bearings and seals. If he really does not want to split the cases, I would wash it out with clean solvent and/or alcohol, then blow it dry with air. Once you are satisfied that it is clean and it turns over smoothly, I would dump 2 stroke oil in the crankcase, enough to fill it about 1/2 way and then turn the crank to make sure it is all lubed. After letting it soak for awhile dump out the oil and you should be fine.

X2, 1990 was the last year for J arms. 1991 was the first year for A arms.

X2! Also they take a different repair kit.

Go with Stellar, NOBODY complains about his stuff. I don't have any of his products on my bike, but alot of people on here say his stuff is the shit. Anybody that has Fireball complains about their heims.

Starwriter and MattSCSS are correct!!!!!!!!! Matt's explanation is almost word for word what I was taught in suspension class in mechanic's school. And I would think as a suspension tech, Matt would know what he is talking about. The bottom line is when a torsion bar is comparatively shortened or made bigger in diameter it becomes stiffer and a coil spring is just a torsion bar wrapped into a cylindrical shape.

Won't the port timing be wacked?

The Turbine Cores will satisfy the spark arrestor requirement, but they will NOT be quiet enough for the Oregon Dunes. When you buy the Cascade CSFX silencers, they come with new stingers to fit the expansion chambers that you have. BUT, I don't know if they have a stinger for the Gold Series pipe. We are running the Fattys with their stingers/silencers, I don't know if the Fatty stingers will work with the Gold Series. When we bought them a year ago, we bought the last set of Fattys stingers they had. Call Cascade and see what they have in stock and if it will fit your expansion chamber. With the economic down turn, I don't think their production runs are as big as they used to be and they don't do another run until they sell out of what they have. When Kevin and Becky owned Cascade, they would custom make a set of stingers for ANY brand of pipe, but since they sold it the new owners only do the stingers for a select group of pipes.

I think you are better off choosng 1 oil and sticking with it year round. Unless you are racing or just totally running the crap out of it, the R50 will be just fine. Like I said before , everybody I ride with and myself use it year round and we have had zero problems or failures with it. I have at least six years on my topend and my compression has only dropped from 175 psi to 165 psi in that time.

Uh didn't he say he could NOT get 927 locally? Why are you switching back and forth between oils in summer and winter? I run the R50 all year round at 40:1 whether I am at sea level in the Oregon Dunes or if I go up in elevation to St Anthony's. I used to run Benol at 40:1 also , until I had problems with carbon buildup in the wife's bike- she did not ride it hard enough. So we switch to the R50 in all the bikes and have had zero problems since- minimal plug fouling, no blown up motors or cranks, and exceptional piston/ring life between topend rebuilds. Oh, and EVERYBODY I ride with runs it also, at 40:1 too.

More like .003 and maybe even less, but definitely not .03

THis is correct, but to clarify, the T fitting is on top of the motor but under the carbs.